So after, possibly 2 years down, my cas back together and running, but I can't get the idle to stay in the range it needs to be.
The Maf &Tps have been tested and are in good shape. I tried adjusting the idle via the FSM but can't tell if the aac is working how it should. I kind of notice a change in idle when I unplug but can't really tell if it's from the unplugging or not because the idles inconsistent. From a cold start it starts and idles fine, but once it starts warming up and the idle reaches about 1k range it will drop and sputter a little between about 650iish to maybe 1100.
The ecu has also thrown code 13, but I've replaced the CTS with 2 known working ones. Maybe I'm possibly not resetting the ecu right. I've tried Mode IV and disconnecting the battery. I've also tried searching the forums but I'm not having much luck and keep running into unanswered threads, Also tried looking for boost leaks via propane method and fog machine and found 2 very very small ones from the T for fpr and butterfly valve and one just before the throttle body. Though I do hear what sounds like a pretty loud leak near the AAC area kinda underneath it, I also notice while driving when I got to clutch in and shift, the idle kinda hovers where ever I decide to shift at and will slowly drop back down.
Intake plenum wasn't taken apart and ran fine before the motor was torn down, but both intake mannifold gaskets were replaced, Idle Vac is about -15 to -18 psi inHG.
Specs are stock internal CA (jdm 8 port) with s15 turbo on stock wastegate psi , pbm high mount and adjustable fpr. Timing has also been set to 15*

Sorry for the lengthy post, but all help is appreciated, after all the down time, it would be nice to finally get to drive this thing.

Bummer to hear about that man. Some things that come to mind for me are:
Search for more of those vacuum leaks. The hanging idle and drop in rpms after a rev suggests there may be another somewhere.
Try the carb cleaner method: Get the car running and spray carb cleaner around any and all vacuum hoses (one by one) and listen for the engine to rev up. If it does, spray again and isolate the area and potential hose. Replace it and see if a difference is made.

You might want to check your fuel pressure and/or change the fuel filter, too.
How's the spark plug gap? Are they new plugs, wires, etc?

thanks for the response. fuel pressures at about 38iish, fuel filter along with pump are about 3 years old, spark plugs are also fairly new, about 6 heat range gapped at .25. coil packs are also all firing.
heres a vid [youtube]<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bX4RSTUjTuI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/youtube] hope it works.

just got done doing vac leak check with carb cleaner, found nothing. double checked coil packs, CAS, MAF, CTS, AAC. all good except i noticed that with my TPS, when disconnecting the Throttle sensors, i got the right figures for that, but when checking the idle switch/TPS itself, i was getting no continuity. even while trying to adjust it with the motor struggling to run, i couldn't manage to get it still. so would my issue here be that i would need a new TPS?