idle is between 700 and 800 RPM apply gas 500 and lower http://www.nicoclub.com/

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DubsSuck
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So I finally got my car to start, it had a timing issue. but now when i apply the gas ever so slightly it bogs wayyyy ddoooowwwwn, past 500 RPM.I've noticed that when i put the car in acc and press the gas it makes a buzing noise. im not sure what that is...


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DubsSuck
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any help?

ReX2SX
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Is your timing set with a light?

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DubsSuck
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not really.. i don't think im dealing with a timing issue more along the lines of an electrical issue

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s13-t
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idels fine but if you push the throttle it bogs? sounds like a bad maf to me... could be wrong

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DubsSuck
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MAF is pretty much brand new.. I should almost put a vid of what its doingbecause when i press the gas when the car is turned on, not started, it makes a buzzing noise. its really hard to explian..its almost like there is a power drain some where

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DubsSuck
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ReX2SX wrote:Is your timing set with a light?
DubsSuck wrote:not really.. i don't think im dealing with a timing issue more along the lines of an electrical issue
Make sure your timing is set before you go digging for other problems. Once that is done get a multi-meter and check your TPS voltage through the throttle range. It should raise smoothly as you go to wide open.

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DubsSuck
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and if it doesn't rise smoothly? where do imeasure this TPS voltage? and as for the timming I have stage 2 cams on it and its advancing the crap out of it, so i have it all the way retarded and the light still doesn't flash on the TDC mark its one mark ahead. but the RPMs are Between 800 and 700 so it should be fine.

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It's not supposed to be at tdc. Search for how to set your timing. Are you sure that your cam timing it set properly?

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DubsSuck
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its not at tdc thats what i said..im not concerned with the timing because i know thats not the case.. so pleas drop it

what is the TPS? im guessing its sort of throttle sensor. where would it be..

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DubsSuck
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ok so the buzzing that i've been talking about is coming from the back end of the enegine where all the vacc lines are.. and the more i mess with the throttle body the warmer the plug in the back left gets... gah i need pictures..

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DubsSuck wrote:the light still doesn't flash on the TDC mark its one mark ahead.
It should be 4 marks ahead, so if your only at one your timing is 15* retarded from where it should be. That will make a car run like crap. The buzzing noise is your IACV struggling to keep your engine running.

Did this problem start when you put your stage 2 cams in or is it more recent than that.
DubsSuck wrote:im not concerned with the timing because i know thats not the case.. so pleas drop it
I won't drop the timing issue because this sounds like a cam or ignition timing problem, so stop being stubborn, get your timing set right, and go from there.

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Yeah, lets keep it basic before we move on to the more technical stuff. And your tps is going to be on your throttle body.

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the converted wrote:I won't drop the timing issue because this sounds like a cam or ignition timing problem, so stop being stubborn, get your timing set right, and go from there.
Ignition timing maybe but cam timing i doutb it. i more than tripple checked it. and the buzzing noise only happends when the throttle is slightly opend it starts to go away when its 1/4 of the way opended. but if thats caused by poor ignition timing that will explaine a lot. my appolgies for being so subborn i was poorly informed.

i haven't driven my baby since july of last year.. she needs to get back on the road again

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i want spring its too friggen cold ^doesn't Help
Modified by DubsSuck at 3:40 PM 2/21/2009

justin240
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i dont know about the buzz noise but my rpms would drop when i hit the gas so i changed the plugs, wires, and the cap and rotor and it worked just fine

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^^^ its common with the ka check spark plugs and see if all cylinders are fireing then cap wires etc

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DubsSuck
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^needs to be dumped^

ok well check this out.. maybe it would be easier if you could accually see/hear it.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-ZKYFCKhdwyour going to want to crank it, its hard to hear


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Stick your hand in the manifold and see if you can feel it coming from the iacv.

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DubsSuck
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..assume im a moron, which isn't far from the truth.. whats the iacvok i found the Idle air control valves but i didn't feel anything coming out of them but then again its really hard to get back there.

im thinking it might be a vacc line that needs to be switched. anyone know of a good caccum diagram
Modified by DubsSuck at 9:07 AM 2/27/2009

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No worries, Idle Air Control Valve. if you look down through the runners you'll see a screw that is used to adjust the idle, that's the module.

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DubsSuck
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ok i think i found it its along the side of the manafold the screw has a bigger yellow screw type thing above ithttp://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/43666/000_3210.jpg

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I think that's it. I'm more familiar with the SR ones but it looks similar.

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DubsSuck
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yeah ok well i didn't feel anything coming out of that area.. im wondering if its a caccum line, but chilton over looked that.. theres not one in there for the 240sx

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sounds like timeing, or the valves need to be adjusted a little

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DubsSuck
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killbillet wrote:sounds like timeing, or the valves need to be adjusted a little
please read the thread before you coment... this subject has already been discussed.

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DubsSuck
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ok so i started it up today and started tinkering around, it doesn't dog down any more if i hit the gass.. distributor timing was the issue there. i put it at 17*, a safe advance. buzzing is still there but not effecting anything at the moment.

but i noticed it is having a hard time with cold starts, then again that could be because i hadn't started it in a while. it could also be because the balck box that hooks up to the in take on the drivers side doesn't have a place to go.. the K&N that i got doesn't have a spot for it.

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Cool, glad the problems are gone. As far as cold starts I don't think that Sr's are very good when it comes to that anyway.


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