Idle INCREASES app. 200 RPMs when I disengage clutch

[eZg001]

Warming up my beloved 06 G35 Coupe this morning and after the initial warmup had lowered the idle a bit- not all the way- I hit the clutch pedal to put the car in reverse and I noticed the RPMs increase a little.

I am not a mechanic and honestly am not sure how a clutch truly works but this seemed to me to be a sign that my clutch is wearing since the transmission seems to be bogging down the revolutions of the engine.

I just had my master clutch cylinder and slave cylinder replaced, under warranty to fix a sticky clutch pedal. The transmission has been noticeably notchier. I kinda took the notchiness as a good thing because it seemed like some of the 'slop' had been taken out of the manual transmission.

Thoughts?

Thanks...George

[Tampa G35 Sedan 6MT]

It always does that... at least mine does it too

DJ

[joe603]

Sounds normal. When the clutch is engaged (pedal up) it puts load on the engine. When you depress it, that load is suddenly removed. When the car is warming up the idle is higher and it takes the computer longer to correct.

[awdjdmtalon]

Mine does this too. Nothing to worry about. When you depress the clutch you are releasing the drag of the transmission. Granted it is not much. Also, you may have had your foot still slightly depressing the gas pedal.

As for the shifter felling notchier...... Well replacing the clutch slave and master cyl. will have no effect on that. They are not even connected to the shifter.

You said that the clutch pedal was sticky. What exactly was it doing. Abour 25% of the time, my pedal will not full return to the top.

[eZg001]

Ok...i feel better about my clutch now. Thanks

Business is so bad that my company is laying off people daily. I, like most people, have enough stress without worrying about a large repair bill AND being out of a job.

The cylinder replacements were what the tech line told the dealership to do because my pedal was returning only about halfway up, intermittenly. The problem only happened a couple times before I was able to get to the dealership while the pedal would not return and get a tech to look at it. I am pretty sure it happened only after things heated up.

thanks again guys

[SteveTheTech]

The guys here are right, an increase of 200 rpms is pretty small, since when the clutch is engaged the input shaft is spinning. Should sweat it too much unless you notice anything else.

You said that the clutch pedal was sticky. What exactly was it doing. Abour 25% of the time, my pedal will not full return to the top.

Does it stick to the floor and you have to pull the pedal back with your foot? There is an adjustment under the pedal that can be moved to get the tension point past the spring back level. (I cannot describe this but I need to find a .gif of this). You may have an issue in your fluid circuit, have you flushed the fluid or replaced the clutch?

[awdjdmtalon]

Steve.

I did adjust the master cyl rod per the tip here on Nico to get better pedal feel. I think it started after that. don't remember. But I have thought about adjusting it back 1 turn to see it that fixes it.

I have replaced the fluid in both the clutch system and brake. The whole 2 yr 24K mile brake flush. I switched over to Ate Super Blue brake fluid.

On top of that. I have been getting a 2nd and 3rd gear grind a lot lately.

Which is kinda pissing me off. I could understand if I drove it like my Talon, but I am nice to her.

[Jacko3]

EZg001:

What can I say? When did you last flog that car? I know my questions sound crazy but I have found the G to be a seeker of punishment in oreder for it to function properly. The car, espcially the manual transmission, was built with so much redundancy and looseness that it requires a lot of work to get the fluid flowing around it the way it should. the car will die on you if you keep babying it. Make love and not war, to that car.

[SteveTheTech]

Steve.

I did adjust the master cyl rod per the tip here on Nico to get better pedal feel. I think it started after that. don't remember. But I have thought about adjusting it back 1 turn to see it that fixes it.

I have replaced the fluid in both the clutch system and brake. The whole 2 yr 24K mile brake flush. I switched over to Ate Super Blue brake fluid.

On top of that. I have been getting a 2nd and 3rd gear grind a lot lately.

Which is kinda pissing me off. I could understand if I drove it like my Talon, but I am nice to her.

Not good, does it sounds like synchros? How much warranty do you have left?

[awdjdmtalon]

What is the powertrain warranty? I know my cars inservice date was 4/04 and only has 22K on it right now. When I bought it, it was 1 week out of the bumper-bumper.

[SteveTheTech]

Email me your vin and Iwill look it up for you.

[tollboothwilley]

I thought that standard warranty was 5 yr/ 60K miles

Which would mean that you should still be covered. The Power train warranty is 70K.

[awdjdmtalon]

Email me your vin and Iwill look it up for you.

You've got mail!

[MoonRiver]

Steve.

I did adjust the master cyl rod per the tip here on Nico to get better pedal feel. I think it started after that. don't remember. But I have thought about adjusting it back 1 turn to see it that fixes it.

This was exactly what happened to me too. I ended up raising the pedle a bit by turning the push rod (can't remember which way, but resulted in extending the rod). Hope it works for you.

[SteveTheTech]

You need to be very careful when performing any adjustment to the brake or clutch pedal do not do it much! In our shop we have a special tool to measure the amount of adjustment required. There is a section in the ESM (CL) you and the adjustment parameters.

[MoonRiver]

You need to be very careful when performing any adjustment to the brake or clutch pedal do not do it much! In our shop we have a special tool to measure the amount of adjustment required. There is a section in the ESM (CL) you and the adjustment parameters.

I did read throught that section, more than 3 times, but could never find the spec for the pedle height, free play etc but the pushrod length which can't be measured unless its cylinder is off the firewall. If you have the spec and let me I'll appreciate it. without any of the measureable spec I just did my best to rotate it back to the original setting.

[SteveTheTech]

Well I have to partially eat my words on that. The adjustment is for the clutch us verified by checking the clearance between the switches and the pedal. As mentioned on page CL-6.

The adjustment I was thinking of was for the brake pedal. If you do adjust the level make sure to check your clearances.