Idle and wastegate help

[sdtouge]

so it doesnt sound like the wastegate opens till about 5-6k (no tach), ( i have my wastegate hooked up side port on tial-mbc-hotpipe and the top one is open) and the car is way to slow for 3071 at 6psi. the fire ring thing is inbut, it builds 6psi way earlier and holds it to high rpmthe idle is super up and down, but the up parts are still low and it almost stalls. i sprayed starter fluid everywhere and the idle didnt raise so im not sure if its a vacuum leak. but my vaccuum at idle is 16ish when i first start then a few secs later fluxuates between 10-15 depending on what part of its bumpyness its on.i can kinda hear a fshhhh sound when its boosting, but i am not getting a serious cut out like you do when you boost with a vacuum leak ( i have no cut out whatsoever)also it smells like the car is running real richits not an individual cylinder because when i unplug injector or spark plug in a cylinder it gets worse. tommys dad redid cam timing no help.my setup is s15 injectors (reddish/brown), rb20 maf, jim wolf ecu.any help would be really appreciated

[WDRacing]

Well, any leak will cause you to run very rich on boost. How far away from the turbo is the MAF? Do you have a BOV? If it builds 6 psi and holds 6 psi then the wastegate is working fine.

What is your complete setup.

WD

[sdtouge]

no bov, maf is about a foot away or so, atleast 8 inches (non blowthrough)s15 inj, rb20maf, jw ecu, 3071, 9-1 cp pistons, i think thats all thats relevent. o tial wastegate, revhard mani

[C-Kwik]

so it doesnt sound like the wastegate opens till about 5-6k (no tach),

If your wastegate wasn't opening until 5-6K, You'ld probably have a bunch of parts sitting in your oil pan. If boost rises to 6 psi and hold, the wastegate is doing its job. Wastegate problems might be if it didn't hold boost, allowed too much boost, or didn't make enough boost.

Manifold pressure probably won't tell you too much if there is a leak in your I/C pipes. Unless the manifold itself is leaking, the pressure/vacuum will be fairly normal.

I'd say start by checking, double checking and then triple checking for leaks. I say check them many times, because they can easily be overlooked. Check your coupliers carefully. They can look like they are on correctly but be leaking quite a bit.

BTW, was this set-up running correctly at anytime before? Better still, did you have the fuell system up and running before adding the turbo?

[bruinbear714]

so it doesnt sound like the wastegate opens till about 5-6k (no tach), ( i have my wastegate hooked up side port on tial-mbc-hotpipe and the top one is open) and the car is way to slow for 3071 at 6psi. the fire ring thing is inbut, it builds 6psi way earlier and holds it to high rpmthe idle is super up and down, but the up parts are still low and it almost stalls. i sprayed starter fluid everywhere and the idle didnt raise so im not sure if its a vacuum leak. but my vaccuum at idle is 16ish when i first start then a few secs later fluxuates between 10-15 depending on what part of its bumpyness its on.i can kinda hear a fshhhh sound when its boosting, but i am not getting a serious cut out like you do when you boost with a vacuum leak ( i have no cut out whatsoever)also it smells like the car is running real richits not an individual cylinder because when i unplug injector or spark plug in a cylinder it gets worse. tommys dad redid cam timing no help.my setup is s15 injectors (reddish/brown), rb20 maf, jim wolf ecu.any help would be really appreciated

Fix your idle first before doing anything else. Jumpy idles are usually due to vacuum leaks.

[sdtouge]

ok, had some boost leaks but it didnt change the way the car runs at all. no the fuel system (injectors atleast) havent been used w/o the turbo. before i had a 370/t28 setup. same fpr/pump though.i took it to jjim wolf, running SUPER lean at idle (21-22:1 afr). they basically retuned my ecu to cover up whatever is wrong just so i could make the event the other weekend i really wanted to get to.so ya. thats where im at. boost hits fine. its just too slow for what it should be. my friends ka t28 at 7psi was pulling on me 3071 10psi. not in the drift but on the straight on the track. so something is up for sure. main thing is super lean/terrible idle and too slow. im gonna make a custom body harness although that probably wont help and change out the orings on the injectors. also im gonna check the fuel lines from the trunk to the engine bay. hopefully this gets me somewhere. i wanna get some 550s and a z32 or something like that and up the boost to one bar:) and of course get the car running correctly first.any more insight would be great! thanksoh, so the car does work if that helps. i drifted 2 days at all star bash few weeks ago. just idle sucks and its too slow for what it is.

[C-Kwik]

You might try disconnecting the MAF to see if it can idle correctly when it ignores the MAF. It will run a preset amount of fuel based on TPS and RPM alone when you do this, so leaks should not affect the idle in this case. If it runs smoothly, you should be able to rule out the fuel system as the problem. If it stayhs erratic, then you may have something wrong with the injectors. Though, since you're running a JWT ECU, you might check with them to see if the failsafe mode (MAF disconnected) will meter fuel based on the larger injectors.

Also, how do you have the idle air controller hose routed?