Identifing a 300zxtt

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eparker89
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Hey, I'm looking to buy a 300zxtt and am wondering if there is a way to tell if they car is a twin turbo by looking at the VIN?

Thanks


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nsrZ32
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Welcome to NICO!

To determine if a 300ZX is twin turbo by the VIN you want to look at the 4th character of the VIN.

If it is an R the car is a non-turbo and is equipped with the VG30DE

If it is a C the car is twin turbo and is equipped with the VG30DETT

greatgonzer
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Of course that is an assumption. My VIN shows NA but I did an NA to TT swap in mine, so really its a TT with a NA vin number... These are becoming more and more common. Just something to think about.

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nsrZ32
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True....but it has all the TT goodies and all of that but as far as insuring and manufacturer ID processes its still considered an NA....because that's exactly what it is. That's like taking a Plymouth Cuda with a 340 wedge and swapping in a 426 Hemi and calling it a Hemi Cuda....its not a real Hemi Cuda.

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greatgonzer
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nsrZ32 wrote:True....but it has all the TT goodies and all of that but as far as insuring and manufacturer ID processes its still considered an NA....because that's exactly what it is. That's like taking a Plymouth Cuda with a 340 wedge and swapping in a 426 Hemi and calling it a Hemi Cuda....its not a real Hemi Cuda.
Exactly. I get all the benefits of a TT with the insurance of an NA. But not so fast with that quote of yours saying that it is not a "real" TT. Because believe me, when one lines up next to me, they will know its a TT.

I have a JDM TT motor from Japan, AMZ stage II turbos, 555cc Nismo injectors, Greddy S boost controller, XTD 6 puck racing clutch, Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel, AMZ 1 piece driveshaft, ASH spec ECU, Trust pop charger, all mated to the NA rear differential for incredible launches... I would call that a "real" 300zxTT....

But of course I agree with your point. It was not "born" a TT. And in the end that is what matters to a lot of people. I just love a good discussion anyways...
Modified by greatgonzer at 9:58 PM 10/15/2006

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nsrZ32
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My insurance is only $25.16 a month for full coverage with zero deductible. Plus all the mods are covered and if it were ever to get stolen I'd get a check for 50K to build another. Mmmm I love state farm.

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eparker89
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Thanks for the info. On another note, has anyone increased the HP to 400+? I would like to do that if I bought the car but I am not sure of what exactly needs to be done. Some say that all you need to do is pull the engine and increase the turbos to 21psi but that came from someone who doesn't own a 300zxtt and hasn't actually done it. Any suggestions/comments/info on that topic are greatly welcomed.

Thanks

greatgonzer
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eparker89 wrote:Thanks for the info. On another note, has anyone increased the HP to 400+? I would like to do that if I bought the car but I am not sure of what exactly needs to be done. Some say that all you need to do is pull the engine and increase the turbos to 21psi but that came from someone who doesn't own a 300zxtt and hasn't actually done it. Any suggestions/comments/info on that topic are greatly welcomed.

Thanks
With all the mods that I did in my previous post put me well above 400hp. But increasing boost to 21psi is STONGLY not recommended unless you plan on putting in forged pistons. You can make that HP range with 15-17psi and the correct mods without going that high on the PSI scale.

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nsrZ32
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Getting to 400hp is very easy. With simply an intake, exhaust, and computer reflash you have ~400hp. Upgrading from there only yields more power.

Here's a basic "staged" upgrade chart that Z32 guys use....

90-96 Nissan 300zx-TTStaged Upgrades

STAGE 0Stock 280HP (auto) - 300HP (manual)

STAGE IIntake305-325HP@10PSIImproved Low End Response

STAGE IIECU Upgrade365-380HP@12-14PSIRemoves Limiters/Expands Fuel, Timing,and Boost Maps/Increases Boost

STAGE IIITest Pipes/Gut Pre-Cats385-400HP@12-14PSIThis Upgrade Will Shock You!

STAGE IVCat Back Exhaust400-415HP@12-14PSINo Exhaust Restriction/Great Boost Response-Car Pulls Hard

STAGE VBoost Controller420-435HP@15PSISteady Boost Response;Control/Solid 15PSI Of Boost

STAGE VINOS System490-505HP@15PSICar Shoots Out Of The Hole/System Engaged Until 10PSI

STAGE VIIIntercoolers / Radiator Upgrade495-510HP@15PSIA Must Have For Future Upgrades/Increased Cooling Efficiency

STAGE VIIITwin Intake System510-525HP@15PSINo Intake Resrtiction/Turbos Will Sing

STAGE IXPorted Trottle Bodies/Matched Intake515-530HP@15PSICar Now Ready For Injector/Turbo Upgrade

STAGE X555 / 740 / 850cc Injector Upgrade530-545HP@17PSINow Able To Increase Boost/Upgrade Turbos

STAGE XISport 500 Turbos555-575HP@17-21PSI

If you plan to go above this stage, engine upgrading is suggested for durability reasons. The next stages will take you above 500RWHP! If you plan to take your Z over the 650RWHP mark, you will need a higher capacity Fuel Delivery system.

Greddy TD05-16G Kit560-605HP@17-21PSI

TD05-18G Upgrade for the Greddy Kit(Cam Upgrade Required)620-675HP@17-25PSI

TD06-20G Upgrade for the Greddy Kit(Cam Upgrade Required)This kit has 650-750 RWHP Capability +

STAGE XIICam Upgrade/Head Package

etc etc etc

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600+ in a Z32TT is amazzzzzing

MaximA32

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so very true. ive witnessed/felt it

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NSR240sxe
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Welcome to NICO!! As you can already tell there are a lot of knowledgable people on here and I'm sure you'll learn a lot from them. Good luck buying a Z32 and let us know what happens

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eparker89
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Okay, I have a couple more questions on this before I actually start modding/buy the car.

1. If I understand this correctly, for stages I through XI, nothing needs to be done to the car except the mod?

2. Do the stages need to be done in order? I'd rather not get a NOS System.

2. Would you recomend doing the mods yourself or going to a licensed mechanic(for some)?

3. How much should those mods cost and should I buy the name brand parts for known quality?

greatgonzer
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Well according to the stage chart, then I am at stage X with my Z.

For my Z I performed all of the mods myself. I extracted the motor to replace the turbos with the AMZ stage II turbos. I put in the 555cc injectors. I did the boost controller routing. I did the flywheel and clutch replacment and installed the pop charger. The ECU was programmed for me by Ashley Powers.

The work I did was VERY time consuming. The VG30DETT motor is not easy to work on. Very cramped spaces and hard to get to bolts/nuts. If you have experience working on cars, then it shouldn't be too out of the normal for you. If you are a first timer, then help will be required. This car is NOT for beginners. It gives you awesome power, but you have to know what you are doing to get that power. But heck even stock this car still rocks...

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nsrZ32
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eparker89 wrote:Okay, I have a couple more questions on this before I actually start modding/buy the car.

1. If I understand this correctly, for stages I through XI, nothing needs to be done to the car except the mod?

2. Do the stages need to be done in order? I'd rather not get a NOS System.

2. Would you recomend doing the mods yourself or going to a licensed mechanic(for some)?

3. How much should those mods cost and should I buy the name brand parts for known quality?
The "stages" don't have to be followed, or all done, or done in order. Its just kind of a basic guideline companies use like SGP, Stillen, etc.

As for the work, do it yourself! Z's arent that bad and its a great learning experience plus you can kinda do some man/machine bonding haha.

Parts arent cheap but as with anything you get what you pay for. - For intake you have lots of good options (HKS, JWT, Apex-i, Stillen, etc). I have a comparison chart where they test the filtering abilities and the HP gain. Apex-i came out on top.

-For exhaust there are a boatload of options although I prefer the HKS Hiper myself because of its look and free flowing design.

-ECU you will want to either go with JWT or Z1....unless you want to drop the coin and go with a stand alone style engine management system. Z1 is much cheaper and pretty much the same program.

-With the boost controller go with something electronic like HKS, Greddy, Blitz, Apex-i or similar.

- For a radiator I'd recommend Koyo, PWR, Z1, or anything that's sizable and aluminum

-Intercoolers, unless you're going all out, go with side mounts. Stillen, HKS, ARC, Greddy, etc.

-Dual intakes....We designed and built a custom system. Check into JWT and Z1 for dual setups. But know that there are much better ways to do it than the kits available

-In the fuel department, if you're not going with huge turbos and for more than 500hp, the nismo 555's will work great for you. If you want to make a little more horsepower and have the extra fuel capabilites check into the nismo 740cc's. If you really go all out, then spend the coin and get the Border 850cc kit. If you go this far you'll also want to look into a good fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, better plumbing under the hood, etc. Stock fuel pump can handle whatever you throw at it though.

-For turbos, it all depends what you want. How much HP you want to make, where you want to make it, what your other modifications can support and such. Personally I like ball bearing turbos and run HKS units myself. Lots of great "kits" are out there though and now-a-days everyone seems to have their own brand of turbos.

-Cams and headwork. Whatever company you decide on for cams I recommend you use their hardware (valves, springs, retainers) so everything is happy together. Just my $.02 from experience.

-In building the motor, the stock rods are amazingly strong, but you can upgrade to lighter units. For pistons you have a TON of options, personally I went with Wiseco as they are proven quality at a good price.

Any questions at all that you might have feel free to ask. I've been into just about every part of the 300zx and the VG30DETT and am more than happy to share some knowledge

Florida240sx
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Going to be needing to talk to you soon. Putting the vg30dett in my vert. With auto transmission. What is the safe point of stock components? Plan to raise the boost. Stock everyhting, except I can do intake, Exhaust will be custom and probably be an open pipe. I can do FMIC if it will help.I'd like to have 350+ at the wheels.Going to be buying a second block to have built parts in which I'd like to have same as you.This is going in my s13 vert. So tons of fun lol.

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The "400hp" off basics is BS. That most certainly is not wheel horse power which is what matters to most of us.

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nsrZ32
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WidebodyZ wrote:The "400hp" off basics is BS. That most certainly is not wheel horse power which is what matters to most of us.
There are LOTS of people making 400whp with stock turbos. And if you're on stock turbos with bolt ons (even if its a lot of them) its basics. If you've been in a cave and missed it, or just like to doubt me, feel free to hit up Greg Dupree, I know his shop has had atleast 15 cars come out of there making over 400whp on stockers.

So much for it being BS huh?

greatgonzer
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nsrZ32 wrote:
There are LOTS of people making 400whp with stock turbos. And if you're on stock turbos with bolt ons (even if its a lot of them) its basics. If you've been in a cave and missed it, or just like to doubt me, feel free to hit up Greg Dupree, I know his shop has had atleast 15 cars come out of there making over 400whp on stockers.

So much for it being BS huh?
I couldn't agree more. I am personal friends with several people with stock turbos making serious power. I also have one of several 300ZXs in my city with upgraded turbos that are well above the 400hp mark... There is NO BS here, just serious HP.

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NSR A32 wrote:i beg to differ. and I shouldn't be nice, but I will
Don't be nice on my account, but make sure you back yourself up. I'm not the one that said this:
nsrZ32 wrote:Getting to 400hp is very easy. With simply an intake, exhaust, and computer reflash you have ~400hp.
I NEVER said you couldn't get 400whp with stock turbos...I got that much myself and for a few customers. So WTF would I say something like that? Intake, exhaust, ECU DOES NOT = 400whp. SORRY! Maybe close to 400hp at the crank...MAYBE, depending on how the maps are configured on the ECU.

I'm not mad either, just laughing how much you guys wadded your panties over something so trivial and inaccurate.

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nsrZ32
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Nobody wadded their panties

We just stated the obvious on HP numbers and as always you found a need to dispute things. But hey that's cool...whatever gets your rocks off.

Ah....it was nice while you were on "vacation"

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nsrZ32 wrote:Nobody wadded their panties

We just stated the obvious on HP numbers and as always you found a need to dispute things. But hey that's cool...whatever gets your rocks off.

Ah....it was nice while you were on "vacation"
Why is that? Because no one was here to question the absurd? Do me a favor and prove me wrong. Take a stock TT, throw on exhaust, intake, and re-flashed ECU and put down 400WHP. I will clap profusely if it happens. Explain how those #'s are "the obvious", I wouldn't dispute something if there was no reason to dispute it.

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nsrZ32
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WidebodyZ wrote:Why is that? Because no one was here to question the absurd? Do me a favor and prove me wrong. Take a stock TT, throw on exhaust, intake, and re-flashed ECU and put down 400WHP. I will clap profusely if it happens. Explain how those #'s are "the obvious", I wouldn't dispute something if there was no reason to dispute it.
Since reading must be a difficult task for you I will quote what I originally said that got you all worked up.
nsrZ32 wrote:Getting to 400hp is very easy. With simply an intake, exhaust, and computer reflash you have ~400hp. Upgrading from there only yields more power.
Hmm....is there WHP mentioned anywhere there? Do I say "yo you'll have 400whp and be jdm tite"? No I don't. Oh and incase you didn't know, this little symbol ~ means approximately. Well wait maybe you were confused because maybe the original poster asked about wheel horsepower...
eparker89 wrote:Thanks for the info. On another note, has anyone increased the HP to 400+?
Nope...he didn't either. I'm not seeing where you're confused. Oh well. Hopefully with how I've laid it out for you it will be easy to understand. If not I can explain it again.

Now run along children. Nothing to see here

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Nice info, Jerry and gonzer...

I'm not very knowledgeable on the Z32, but this has been an educational thread.

FWIW, the little bit of wrenching I've done on one was miserable. Damn hard car to work on.

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360hp crank with rom, intake and exhaust and boost jets now you are talking 400~hp.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...=1079Click and weep. I have seen personaly plenty of cars on dyno make over 100 more whp ~ 400crank+ on the dyno.

Either way mine is bigger...... just kidding. We are all here to help each other. Love the 300zx's and that is it. I don't talk about how much I have done or can do. No point. I have been working on Z's for over 15 years and I know what I can and can't do and have no reason to prove anything. Help everyone and call it a day. I honestly think Jerry is a very knowledgable individual with his heart in the right place and not his ego. He does go out of his way to help everyone. Widebody also tries to help everyone so lets keep doing such.

God bless the 300's

DustinZ

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nsrZ32
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As with a lot of things.....the BS of one or two users has ruined what was a helpful and informative thread. This thread is way past useful and thus has been edited and cleaned up so that when people search they will be able to access the helpful info and not the offtopic inaccurate ego stroking of a certain member. Way to fail.


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