Identfing my truck and finding OEM part numbers

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WOW is all i can say to this wonderful thread "Getting to Know the Nissan D21 Hardbody" is thank you for your efforts

First

Hi i am new to Nissan Trucks (less than 6 months) and am almost sorry i got it even tho i like its looks and the carrying ability

What have i got?
ok that is one of the problems i am having
here is the info i can find on it so far

Aussie 1987 Nissan Navara (3/1987 japan made) 2WD
right hand drive
chassis # NGD21-001331
Model # NGD21FM
2.4L Z24 (S) 2389cc
points(hall effect replacement installed)
carby
pump in gas tank
Base Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door
Long wheel base
Diff / Trans Axle FS5W71C CA39
5 speed manual

this is causing troubles and is why i am starting to not love it as much

things that have failed in the time i have owned it

head gasket (i am guessing the guy i bought it off used chemiweld to hide it) (fixed $892+ 6 hours of my time)
radiator (as above) (fixed $282+ 2 hours of my time)
speedo cable (dash end plastic bit came off internal cable) (carnt find part numbers)
speedo needle snapped off (replaced with superglue and painted toothpick)
fuel gauge sender unit in tank (sparky has checked the wiring and dash cluster and said all ok) (carnt find part numbers)
i am only getting 5.6Km to the Lt of gas (ouch)(my last car was 12.1Km to Lt )(fuel here is around $1.65/Lt)


i carnt seen to find this exact model anywhere
the closest to my truck i can find it the
1987 Nissan D21 E Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.4L 2389CC l4 GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated
(my ute)1987 Nissan Navara D21 Base Standard Cab Pickup 2-Door 2.4L 2389CC GAS SOHC Naturally Aspirated
and have been told that the fuel tank is different in the E Cab fuel injection electronic ignition model to the one i have and wont fit
fuel sender units i am looking at but have been told there not for my model but the E Cab
BOSCH 67882
Airtex E8268S
Spectra Premium SP4017M

speedo cable i can find a 72" one or a 82" one but my one seems to be 67" but that is trying to measure it in place
72" 82"

there are a few other things i need to do , fix , replace but i'll get to them in due time the ones above are the critical ones i need to do now

i have already had to import a
set of tail light assembly
hall effect points eliminators

any help would be good thanks

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here are some pics

My Navra Ute

hope that link works

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well after 4 calls and going to 2 different OEM Nissan parts places i finally found someone that had 1/2 a brain and was willing to help but what i found out was disheartening

in tank Fuel Pump Assembly part number N*1705021G25 $877.90+ 10% GST and none in stock in Australia (not that i have that kind of money to spent on it )

and

Speedo Cable part number N*2505022G01 $340.80 + 10% GST and none in stock in Australia (again not that i would spend that type of money on a speedo cable i'll use my GPS)

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ok so information i have found out that may help others

1:- dont try to take the bed off your truck your self (1 crushed thumb and a back i wish wasn't mine)
2:- the only difference (and a crustal one) the the Z24 and Z24l are different in tank units but it would seem its just the pump and bracket that seem to be different the Z24 low pressure pump Z24I high pressure pump

Z24 (carby) (Australia)


**********************************************************************************************************
Z24I (injection)(USA)



all i need is the sender unit and am having trouble finding one

if anyone knows where i can get them please let me know you can see the damage here in my pic

[AZhitman]

Welcome aboard! Let's get you some info... stand by - lots to cover!

Easy stuff first: Your truck is basically a hodgepodge of what were two different trucks in the US market. Looks like a D21 (Hardbody) cab with a 720 (pre-Hardbody) bed and an engine from a 720 as well. That means the fuel sending unit is likely a 720-style unit.

Use the 72" speedo cable. They're all the same, just route it to take up the slack.

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thank you for that information

typical Us Aussies get every other country's left overs stuck together and called a "new model" LOL

well speedo cable ordered now to try and find the sender unit

[Ozzie]

I don't know if this will be any help, but.....
http://www.picknpayless.com.au/eziparts ... 01987-1991

There also may be a chance that there is an abandoned king cab Navara of the same era in town, with a petrol motor.
I'll go have a closer look on Monday, and if there is anything of use, I'll take the parts off and send them over for the cost of postage, if that's ok by you.

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the only things i am looking at replacing (default nissan parts)

the fuel sender unit

dashboard instrument cluster with one that has a tacho if there is one

the 3.9 diff with a lower ratio one if there is a drop in one (to get better mileage) need to research this more

maby the carby if that will get me better mileage

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ok next problem finding the sender unit O-Ring

is it the same as the Nissan Patrol GQ Y60 GU Y61

it seems to be same size and thickness but that is just guessing

the one in my tank has expanded and wont fit in the grove properly anymore and is now leaking that i have removed it and tryed to put it back

[AZhitman]

You should be able to measure your groove diameter and depth to determine if that one is the same.

[Ozzie]

The abandoned Navara at work has the 2.4lt petrol engine.
Gauge cluster has a clock, not a tacho.
Due to the heat here, the speedo needle has melted and curled up.
Its a twin cab 4WD, so I have no idea if the fuel sender will be the same.
I wouldn't worry about using a stock carb, just swap it over for a downdraught weber 32/36 (fairly common so should be easy to find, plus has the added bonus of mechanical secondaries)

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ok so there was a 3.5:1 diff made by nissan just dont know if it will drop in fit my D21

HF35 - H190 axle found in weenie 2wd Hardbodies.

AZhitman would some of this information help you in your history threat?

now on top of all the other things i have to find i just split my set belt (slammed it in the door and the latch tore the webbing)

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Ozzie is that D21 still there?

is the instrument cluster still in it?

how much you want to yank it and ship it up to me? birzzy 4110

i just pulled my dash out to put the new speedo cable in and the back of it fell off (the part that sticks out from the back of the speedo)

i carnt win can i *sigh*

[Ozzie]

It's still there, but like I said the speedo needle has melted and curled up.

I need to see if I am allowed to pull anything off of it, and if so I'll just need enough money to cover shipping. I won't know what that is until I box it up and get it weighed.

Update to follow.....

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the speedo needel is no problem i'll use the one off mine (i made it lol)



all you should need is a phillips head screwdriver

just let me know including what you need to buy to box it up how much you need

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i dont want to but i am realy starting to hate this truck

started to rain insanly hard here last night when i was out

first time i have had to turn the wipers on to high since i got this truck

next thing i know i here a clunk and my drivers side wiper stopped working

stuck sitting in the car for 4 hours (middle of nowhere) till the rain slowed down enough to drive in with no wiper

pulled it apart today

http://youtu.be/Mg5efvyQIYs

now i need to see if i can find a way to fix this being that there is no old ute's the same vintage left in my city that i could cut that panel out of


Ozzie any luck on that instrument cluster?

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well on the good side
all new (Nissan said they where no longer in production) from the factory in china



on the bad side

the problems i have with the wiper mech mounting

i have pulled the rest of the coverings off and 2/3 of the base of my windscreen has no metal behind it and 2/3 of that mounting panel is mostly missing and had been replaces with cardboard covered with panel putty and panted

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well as there is none of the D21 1987-1988 of my model around to get parts off i have been doing some research at the 4 main junk yards around me

it would seem that the D22 2000-2006 have the same pressing and size for that area (the full panel side to side) so next job will be to find one that the junk yard dont want $250 for that panel and that is me stripping that car down and cutting it out my self

as usual Us Aussies get ripped off on every thing

[AZhitman]

Ugh. I sure hope you didn't pay much for it.

OK, I'm gonna ask what might be an ignorant question: I was under the impression that in most of AU, rust is rare. For example, my '63 Bluebird (which I imported from Canberra via Sydney) is near perfect, no corrosion anywhere.

I'm wondering whether it's really cost-effective to repair that truck, or just find an entire D21 shell at a breaker and swap your good parts onto it?

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Ugh. I sure hope you didn't pay much for it.

$1200 for the ute (that is extremely cheap for a ute here average old ute is about $5000)
$800 4 tiers
$800 (about) rego
$80 road worthy cert
$1000 redo headgasket (blew 2 months after i got the ute)
since then
fuel gauge sender $22
fuel tank seal $20
speedo cable $30
someone smashed both tail lights in the china town near here $70
replaced fraying driver side seatbels $35 (2nd hand)
dash cluster broke (coming dont know cost yet)
i know i am missing something
i simply have to much $ in to it now to basically throw it away and i will never sell a unsafe car to someone else
also i do still like it (all though its getting less and less every time i find something new wrong)
the hard part is i am on a disability pension (stuffed back and bum right leg) as sutch i am very limited on funds and this has drained almost all of my saveings from the last 4 years

OK, I'm gonna ask what might be an ignorant question: I was under the impression that in most of AU, rust is rare. For example, my '63 Bluebird (which I imported from Canberra via Sydney) is near perfect, no corrosion anywhere.

depends if its a car that is parked under cover or under a tree /in the weather

i have seen cars that are 40 years old and never been outside for more than 3 or 4 hours a day and there spotless no rust at all

I'm wondering whether it's really cost-effective to repair that truck, or just find an entire D21 shell at a breaker and swap your good parts onto it?

not a chance to find another shell of the same vintage / model
not to mention they dont look kindly to body numbers and ID plates being moved from 1 shell to the next here

its stupid i can jack it up and replace everything but the cab shell and its legal but i carnt touch that shell at all

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I JUST DON'T BELIEVE THIS SH*T

i finaly got all the partsi i needed to fix my fuel level sender and put them in

IT WORKS GRATE

so i decide to go for a drive (about 20Km) to see a friend

almost home (2 turns and a BIG down hill to go)

by the time i get to the bottom of the hill (3 houses from mine) i put the clutch in to change down a gear and the motor stalls

drop a gear let the clutch out it sputters and starts to run again

pull in driveway and all i can see is steam and water shooting out from under the grill

let it cool down take the rad cap off and fill it up again

start it up (no rad cap) oww look a water fountain

THIS IS REALLY STARTING TO GET ME DOWN

[EDIT] PS:- i checked the coolant yesterday so i know it was full

[Ozzie]

Sorry for the VERY delayed reply.
That car is out of bounds to me, or anyone else. I can't get any parts off of it for you.

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ok no problem i'll have to keep looking around here

[Desert Rat]

ok so there was a 3.5:1 diff made by nissan just dont know if it will drop in fit my D21

HF35 - H190 axle found in weenie 2wd Hardbodies.

AZhitman would some of this information help you in your history threat?

now on top of all the other things i have to find i just split my set belt (slammed it in the door and the latch tore the webbing)

Real classy that someone posted all that axle info up without crediting the person who compiled it all. That's a cut and paste from Nissan4wheelers.com that I had posted years ago to help out users.

Back on topic...did you want a deeper axle ratio or a taller one? You'd incated you ahve a CA39 now - that's a C200 axle with 3.90 gears....going to an H190 with 3.5 gears will be a downgrade in strength and perceived power. Later Navarras should be found with an H233B axle with more favorable gears if you plan on ever running any larger tire....The Z24 isn't exactly a powerhouse and would probably benefit from a gearing advantage.

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Real classy that someone posted all that axle info up without crediting the person who compiled it all. That's a cut and paste from Nissan4wheelers.com that I had posted years ago to help out users.

wow that type of thing is a low blow thank you for your hard work

by the way i have found that same cut and past in at lest 4 places now

Back on topic...did you want a deeper axle ratio or a taller one? You'd incated you ahve a CA39 now - that's a C200 axle with 3.90 gears....going to an H190 with 3.5 gears will be a downgrade in strength and perceived power. Later Navarras should be found with an H233B axle with more favorable gears if you plan on ever running any larger tire....The Z24 isn't exactly a powerhouse and would probably benefit from a gearing advantage.

i wont be putting bigger wheels or tire's on it as that would have to go through re engineering and certification and that isnt cheep but a diff swap (as long as its a OEM pats sold here in Oz) dose not need to be

at the moment i carnt go over about 110Kmph (65mph) with out the motor reveing its nuts off and i can drive up hills at 45Kmph(30mph) in 5th gear no trouble at all so i need a lower raito diff to incress speed and lower power and i hope that will improve my fuel economy as well i am getting about 5.6Km / Lt (15 mpg)

[Desert Rat]

what tires are you running? These old nissans do rev a bit at highway speeds to keep the little engines in their powerband. My '98 4wd came stock with little 235/70/15s and 4.625 gears!

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4.625

OMG that would be revving its nuts off

this is what mine are205/65R15 94H

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well the head rework i had earlier on this year has failed again and my car is back in the shop and the guys that reworked it will be having a look at it tomorrow i hope.

to me it looks like the block water galleries around #4 have corroded open a bit to far for the head-gasket to seal correctly

i am strating to not only dislike the truck but out right hate it

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well i was right the block is F@#ked

i want to know why this wasnt seen when it was done less than a year ago

if it had i wouldnt have spent the $1K+ on that motor

ok now i need to find a motor i can do a drop in replacement (remember its a carby not injection)

or

the other option i think would work (and the other guy thinks may work too) is a copper head gasket but i carnt seem to find one that i can get here (aussie land) cheaply in the next week

anyone have any ideas?