Idel problems and misc.

[EvaUnit-13]

So LIke Ive said before In the few other help threads, ive got an 89 s13 coupe with a 91 de, the complete swap ecu harness tach ect.. Or at least everything Ive read you need, I just put it in a few days ago. I got the de from a junk yard with everything minus the ps pump and lines and distributer. The compression was 151 to 160 on all four. The de has my sohc throttle body, with the linkage and tps from the de because the de throttle was trashed. An ebay bought distributer and coil wich appear to be in good condition. The harness was cut going to the maf sensor and the other sensor that was in the intake so I used the pieces off my sohc. I did a self diagnosis on the ecu and came up with a 14 32 33 45 Ive got new plugs and wires (ngk) new universal o2 sensor ive changed the oil and gas since I put in some sea foam to clean the engine. I cheked my egr system and all vacume hoses everything seem in order. I cheked my injector didnt find any leaks. My idle is awful. disconnected the tps and trided to get it to 650 and it wot stay below 1k. Im running super rich and somtimes my idel surges. One of the codes said a speed sensor malfuntion I dont know where the speed sensor Is. Help please I dont want to pay some one to do this I want to say I did the whole damn thing my self if possible. If there is no way to fix these problems with out a code reading computer or what ever it is thats a few grand let me know. thanks Ian

[NISTECH]

well the problem here is you have changed the engine to another engine. how much of what was in the car did you change to meet the requirements of the ecu? how much under the hood did you change? the complete engine or just the long block?

[EvaUnit-13]

Sorry I should have said It was a complete swap ecu harness power steering lines tach the only things I used off the sohc were the parts mentioned.. The car runs great accept the weird idle and running super rich which means I cant smog it yet. I was In a hurry to get to work when I wrote the last thread I will go and make sure I didnt leave out any more valuable stuff.

[EvaUnit-13]

more stuff thats weird. I went driving last night about 40 miles round trip. Before I left my house I cleaned up my engine from the work I had been trying the night before, I had disconnected the tps and turned the idel adjust screw all the way clockwise. so I reconnected the tps and figured Id leave the Idel screw where it sat. I turned the car on and I was right at 750 or so with no noticable fluctuation also the check engine light was off. I drove from where I live to ventura about 20 or so miles at 65 to 90 mph. Half way there I stopped at the gas station filled up with 91 wich I had done the last fill up also, previously I used 87. when i started my car the idel went to 7 or 750 then fell to almost zero then bounced back up again, still no chek engine light. went the rest of the way (5 to 10 miles) and parked for a few hours. When I left I followed a freind a way home he liked to take cause of some of the turns. I was driving pretty hard to keep up with him. when we got back on the free way the check engine light came back on. When I got back to my house and stopped driving the car it would idel perfectly for 12 or so seconds then drop to almost 0 and stutter for a few secs then bounce back to a perect idel. Weird maybe might help you guys with your diagnoses

[NISTECH]

did you swap out the mass airflow with the engine change or are you still using the sohc maf

[EvaUnit-13]

no I didnt im still using the soch one, you think I need to? I just did an ecu test again and now I only got a 32 and 45.

[NISTECH]

maybe your 02 is no good? if you can smell fuel and its running rich. or you actually have an injector leak(code 45) for the egr code check your vac supply lines and push up on the egr diaphram and make sure it stumbles.

[EvaUnit-13]

well i think my o2 sensor is good its brand new. I just took it out and cleaned it with carb cleaner (b-12) some one said you can do that i also checked my maf sensor and cleaned that with b12 it had some oil water mixture on it from the old engine that was in the car. The old engine had a cracked block and spilled the **** all over the place. Anyway started the car up and no more code 32 just a 45 now. any more advice?

[NISTECH]

well the 45 mans it is running really rich that is the injector leak code. but doesnt nessesarily mean an injector is leaking but could be. it throws that code because it is seeing less oxygen in the exhuast then it is calculating it should see. it makes that desicion based on maf, coolant temp sensor, and o2 input. do a leak down check. hook up a fuel gauge between the fuel filter and the injector rail. trn the key to the on position let the pressure come up then shut the key off. the gauge should drop no more then 10psi in 20 mins time. if it does you are loosing fuel somewhere either threw the fuel pressure regulator or threw the injectors. do this test and see if it is then repost and I will tell you how to isolate it to the source if it is the problem.

[EvaUnit-13]

Well thanks for all the help, but I just crashed the car and I think it might be a bit too much to repair. The frame is solid but the roof got dented kinda ba although the supports over the doors arent bent. so i was wondering I rooled it down an embankment when it rolled i was almost at a stand still just kinda went tofar and teetered over the edge the motor ran for a sec upsidedown then I turned it off. when I got back home it wouldent start. there was motor oil in the intake. do you think that i might have thrown a rod or just cloged my intake up? lemme klnow thanks, Ian

[NISTECH]

IAN that absolutly sucks. you need to remove all the oil from the from the car and refill. clean out your intake remove you plugs and clean them. crank the engine withthe plugs out to clear the cyl's and do a compression check to make sure nothing happened to the engine. check your coolant level and top off as needed. put it back together. and try to start it. its gonna smoke pretty bad for awhile till the oil is drawn from the intake and you may need to clean your plugs again a couple of times during the burn off process. but as long as you shut it off fairly quick when you went upside down I dont see why it shouldnt be ok.

I gotta ask what the hell where you doin to get yourself in that predicament?

[EvaUnit-13]

Well I was trying to drift in a car that I had only driven a few days. The suspension got a little loose and on my counter steer I cought a little bump spun 270 and instead of trying to correct, I locked up the brakes. I almost was stopped then two of my wheels hit the gravel which gave me just enough momentum to teeter over the edge and roll down a 15 foot 7% incline. today I went over the car to see the extent of the damage. I tried to turn the engine over manually but it stopped and sounded like the piston was hitting and trying to compress my spring. It made a noise similar to a bed spring if it were in my engine. Also my roof is dented but the door frame looks solid still. The bumper and fenders are shot and the runners along the door are also shot. I might also need new doors and will definitely need a new windshild. But other than that the frame is still perfect along with the suspension. So should trash it and buy a new one, which means getting a loan(if I can). Or try to rebuild it? let me know what you think. Ive only put about 900 total in the car. 50 for the car its self and 700 for the de, harness and ecu and some other mics. expenses. I dont know for 3k Ive seen some s13s with suspension and sr motors That look really nice. Although I dont really care about an sr that much. Thanks for your help. i garantee Ill be back!

[NISTECH]

that car is a loss. it will just be a money pit to get it back into shape. you would be better off grabbing any mods that are still usable. part out whats left and get your self another car. it sounds like the engine locked up and the body damage sounds extensive you have no idea at this point what kinda damage the suspension or chassis has suffered till you get it on a rack. Its just not worth it at this point.

[EvaUnit-13]

Damn thats sucks. When you say the engine locked up does that mean not rebuildable or is it possible to rebuild it because, that sounds kind of fun. Also Iwas thinking about trying to become a mechanic do you know the starting salary for a nissan mechanic? Will they pay for your schooling like BMW claims they do? I dont know if you can answer those but if you can that would be cool. Thanks a lot.

[NISTECH]

As far as pay goes it is really demand and area related. you usually start out as a lube tech in a dealer if you have no prior dealer experiance and work your way up from there. yes they send you to school if they find your worth it to them. but that can be dependant on how the dealer feels about training. the class it self costs nothing to the dealer. what the dealer pays for is your hours in class(you get payed a days pay for each day you attend) also depending on how generous the dealer is they may also pay for lodging or a rental car and gas. thats the case for me where I work. oh they also pay for meals. In my dealer I am the lead tech but also have the resposibility of sending other techs as well as my self to tech school since I am the training coordinator. As of right now I have 1 tech in class till friday and I have him scheduled for another 2 day class next week. next month I have another guy in a 2 day class and the following month I am in a 3 day class. The only reason everybody in my dealer goes to school is because I told my service manager that if I am to run the crew,everybody on my crew gets training period. As I would like to be able to give anyone on my crew any job that comes in and know they have the skills to do it accuratly. The problem with alot of dealers is they only send a select few techs and rely on thier training to teach everybody in the shop. well in a individual flat rate shop that just doesnt work cause the trained guy doesnt want to spend any of his work time helping someone else make money.

as far as rebuilding your engine you could as long as the block or head did not take any impact damage. but if any machine work needs to be done you will need to pay a machine shop to do it. and by the time you get done the parts and sublet work you pay for may exceed the cost of just getting a used engine to put in your car. Rebuilding an engine is a great learning experiance but you need to follow the service manual to the letter when doing inspections or assembly or you could be doing the job twice. If you have a digital cam snap a shot of your broken baby and post it. From the sounds of it I really think you might be blowin an awful lot of money trying to get this car back into shape. I kinda want to see how bad the car realy is.

[EvaUnit-13]

good news I think the engine was hydro locked. I took out the spark plugs and they were covered In oil. after I did that the engine turned over just fine. I guess i just need to get some of the oil out and fire it up and bur the rest out? I just sined up for an auto shop so I put it up on the lift tonight and the frame looks good. I also got most of the big dents out of the hood. I will try and post some of the pics of the under carrige tomorrow.