I just finished installing my rebuilt KA. Everything looks good vacume, oil pressure, the car even starts up fine but then after 4-5 seconds the car just dies even if I hold my foot down on the throttle the car starts to sputter and die.
I dont think its a vacume leek becuase it will do it even if im holding the throttle keeping the engine at 2 or 3k RPM.
Is so strange it starts up just fine evens out to a smooth run then it just dies.
Anybody have any ideas?
Idel problems after rebuild help!!
I have double checked all my connections and the intake connectors too. I cant find any loose electrical connections so Im totaly at a loss.
Now here is the strange part. Once the car dies the engine will crank but wont start again unless I let it sit for a few minutes. Once I let it sit for a while it starts right up, first try. SOOO frusturating
Now here is the strange part. Once the car dies the engine will crank but wont start again unless I let it sit for a few minutes. Once I let it sit for a while it starts right up, first try. SOOO frusturating
I was wondering about that too. I did forget and leave the key in the ON position while I was working on the car for a while.
Its a brand new fuel filter but I suppose the pump could be going out. Any way I can test it?
Finally if it is the pump, can I use an S13 pump in the s14? I have a new S13 pump sitting here.
Its a brand new fuel filter but I suppose the pump could be going out. Any way I can test it?
Finally if it is the pump, can I use an S13 pump in the s14? I have a new S13 pump sitting here.
I have now hooked the fuel pump directly to 12v power and still the same simptoms. It does sound like a fueling issue the way he car starts to sputter and then die. I even hooked an ammeter to the fuel pump to see if maybe it was seazing or somthing. No change in current there.
Maybe this will be a little more clear. I start the car it idles perfect perrrs niceley for 5 seconds then sputters maybe 8 times till it dies. It dosent just cut off, it trys to stay running but it misses too much and shuts down.
DID my ECU just blow up?
Maybe this will be a little more clear. I start the car it idles perfect perrrs niceley for 5 seconds then sputters maybe 8 times till it dies. It dosent just cut off, it trys to stay running but it misses too much and shuts down.
DID my ECU just blow up?
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bruinbear714
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node wrote:I have now hooked the fuel pump directly to 12v power and still the same simptoms. It does sound like a fueling issue the way he car starts to sputter and then die. I even hooked an ammeter to the fuel pump to see if maybe it was seazing or somthing. No change in current there.
Maybe this will be a little more clear. I start the car it idles perfect perrrs niceley for 5 seconds then sputters maybe 8 times till it dies. It dosent just cut off, it trys to stay running but it misses too much and shuts down.
DID my ECU just blow up?
Are the timing on your cams and distributor correct?
The distributor is set to like 10BTDC and the cams are set with just a little less overlap.
Does the computer set the timing back to TDC for start, then advace after the car is running? Are you thinking the timing is too far advanced or somthing? I have tried the trick where you disconnect the TPS and the car still does the same thing.
Does the computer set the timing back to TDC for start, then advace after the car is running? Are you thinking the timing is too far advanced or somthing? I have tried the trick where you disconnect the TPS and the car still does the same thing.
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bruinbear714
- Posts: 1159
- Joined: Thu Sep 05, 2002 9:58 pm
- Contact:
node wrote:The distributor is set to like 10BTDC and the cams are set with just a little less overlap.
Does the computer set the timing back to TDC for start, then advace after the car is running? Are you thinking the timing is too far advanced or somthing? I have tried the trick where you disconnect the TPS and the car still does the same thing.
Uh, why is distributor set to 10BTDC? And why are the cams set with a little less overlap? How much "less overlap" are you talking about? You can only jump a "notches" on the timing chain, if you know what I mean. You need to line up the cams and timing chain perfectly. Also try setting distributor timing to 20BTDC for starts.
Also, make sure your engine isn't getting extra unmetered air from somewhere, which could come from the egr system, idle air valve, or the valve cover breather hose.
OK, well thanks for the excelent advice fellas. You will never guess what it was. One of the leads on the air intake temperature sensor was broken, but the insulation was still attached. Thats why I missed it everytime I went over the wireing. Why that affected the ECU so terribly I have no idea. Very strange.
Anyhow I repaired the sensor wires and the car runs now, no kidding.
I had been messing with the timing soooo much to figure out the problem that I got frusturated and finally just left it at 10BTDC
Bruin - I have machined out the cam gears so that I can adjust them within a few degrees. I havent begun tuning the engine yet but once I do I should be able to make the most of the turbo with the adjustable gears.
Anyhow I repaired the sensor wires and the car runs now, no kidding.
I had been messing with the timing soooo much to figure out the problem that I got frusturated and finally just left it at 10BTDC
Bruin - I have machined out the cam gears so that I can adjust them within a few degrees. I havent begun tuning the engine yet but once I do I should be able to make the most of the turbo with the adjustable gears.