Ideas and suggestions

[xyster]

I've been pretty inactive on this forum...mostly a lurker with an occasional question. I plan on changing that soon. Anyways, I have a '92 240 w/ ca18, greddy fmic, blitz bov, and a few other small mods. I feel I really rushed the install and setup of the whole drivetrain, and I think I'm going to redo it all. Besides, I think the rings on 3 and 4 are pretty shaky. Now, there is really no time limit on this project...but I'm shooting for about 18 months to be driving again...no big deal if I run way over that. There is a budget limit, but not a very tight one. My question is this, short of buying a tomei crate motor, what would you do for your ideal CA? I plan to use this car for autox and the occasional track day...shooting for a driveable 300hp. I'm talking internals, turbo setup, fuel, electronics, the whole deal.

At the least, I plan on stripping the motor all the way down yet again, upgrading pistons and maybe rods, rings, having the crank checked and bearings matched to it, possibly upgrading the oil pump, metal head gasket, etc etc.

I think I'm going to go with a t3 topmount turbo and manifold, but I'm not sure about that yet. The t2's just don't do it for me...t3 seems like a much more economical and upgradeable setup. I'm thinking about following Dee's SDS recommendation for management, but I need to look around some more...not real well educated on standalones yet. Please just throw out some ideas and suggestions...any suggestions for the rest of the car are welcome too, as it's coming down along with the engine. It's sitting on Tein HE coils, sustech sways, pilot rear strut bar, spl parts subframe spacers, nitto 450 205/50v15's, welded-on nismo-type power brace, j30 vlsd...I think that's all.Please forgive my ignorance on some stuff...I've been deployed in Iraq for over 4 months now (2 left), and I've forgotten tons of stuff not being around the community. I just want some options to consider...I have lots of downtime to think about these kinds of things. I appreciate the help

[pulsar gtr]

Well, first of all, take care of yourself in Iraq dude.

Well, you are on the right track, a solid build is definitely the key for a strong engine.

If you are aiming for about 300hp, well, If I was in your position, I would do the following

new rod and main bearings,new oil pump, water pump, forgged pistons (possible forgged rods), metal headgasket, arp headbolts, 264 or 270 cams, 550cc injectors, nice fmic, new gaskets obviously.

Regarding the standalone, there are few options out there, and one of them is haltech, I am not familiar with the standalone and Dee tends to prefer SDS as he is good with them, I can't tell you what is better, but a while back there was a discussion about the pros and cons on the SDS and other standalones.

I am using JWT ecu and If I have to do it all over again , I would probably go standalone but I haven't searched indepth which one is the best. You want something that is user-friendly, easy to work around and have a datalogger.

That is my 2cent opionion.

Thanks,

PULSAR GTRRafi

[RMiller]

-Stand alone-t3/t04b

Take care in Iraq, and keep a level head.

[float_6969]

I'm with Rafi on this one. I think he nailed it dead on. That is basically EXACTLY what I'm doing, Only with T28.

[RMiller]

I think that list is excessive. I'd drop the cams at least. If not for the price then for the pain it is to compress valvesprings.

[xyster]

thanks for the support...heh...I have a better chance of dying on the highway in atlanta than on this BS deployment, anyways...

heh, the word "excessive" isn't an issue in this project. Price and annoyance aren't big issues either...there's no time limit, so both can be spread over time, and their impact lessened. A friend of mine took his SR head to a very reputable local shop (built several high HP SR's, rotaries, BMW's, etc), and had all his work done there. I could be wrong, but I believe he got it loaded up with greddy parts, along with a port/polish, 3-angle valve job, etc etc for a reasonable price. I'm not one to pay for work, but that's something I've never done before, and don't want to screw up.

I'll look for that old post on standalones, thanks.

Anyone have any good experiences with SSAuto t3 manifolds? I remember some posts a while back about custom manifolds made by a member, but again, I've been out of the loop for a while, is that still going on?

I'm already running a Greddy VSPL fmic, and I think that should be adequate for my goals.Do you recommend just a new OE oil pump, or there any performance versions out there?I know I'm probably crossing the "stop asking and use the search button, newb" line...and I appreciate all the responses.

[pulsar gtr]

Regarding the cam shaft, I don't believe it is excessive, the engine is stock 175hp and you are basically doubling the hp, yes the cam will take the hp, but I believe it will hold you back on some hp. Since you will be using a bigger Turbo, you hp due to the lag of the turbo will be generated at a much higher rpm, so having the cams are kind of important to get the engine to perform at it is best.

I would go with stock oem Oil pump, I doubt you will find any aftermaket ones, but if you do, you want it to he a higher pressure one, not a high volume, to keep up with the lubrication of the faster moving parts.

Regarding SSauto manifolds, I have seen them on ebay and they look great but I believe some one on the forum bought one an it cracked but for the price of them, my personal opinion is that they kinda worth it, so if it cracks, you can get it welded, but if you can get a better quality for the same price please do so.

PULSAR GTRRafi

[rico05]

Rico List:HKS Step 1 cams (264')HKS cam gears/cam beltPort, polish, reshape bowlsNismo Head gasketARP head studsHoned head and blockCP pistonsReshot peened stock rodsBalanced, nitrited, and prepped crankMatched bearings (possibly Clevite, but whatever keeps your nautical vessel bouyant)

Custom mani HKS GT35RHKS wastegate

Walbro fuel pump (or the like)Nismo FPR550cc injectorsApex Power FC (HKS F-CON V if you are lucky)

New thermostat, gaskets, etc

I have become a HKS whore, but the quality of their parts and the extensive R&D they perform cannot be forgotten. They are the #1 tuning company in Japan for a reason.

[RMiller]

cuzan0 made 277whp with a t28, safc, fmic, 550's at 1.2 bar. And he tracks the car. Adding a bigger turbo would make it easy to reach 300, and it would be without all the internals. So much money for 300 hp!

[WeldingHank]

there are so many different variables, that someone could make more than 277WHP with a T28. i wouldn't take cuzano's results as the end-all, be-all. and i believe you can run the S15 T28 at more than 1.2bar.

[RMiller]

It's the only result available that I can find. Nobody else dynos. I'm going by what people have done, which is at least better than going with what people think can be done.

[float_6969]

I'll have some dyno's for you guys when I get this stupid thing back together. I should start reassembly of the motor the last week of this month....

[WeldingHank]

277 is still nice though.

[cuzan0]

277 is still nice though.

277whp was my old setup wich are my mods stock engine internals 3" exhaust piping and muffler no catsr20det transmissionkaaz lsdT28 turbo, ca16de cams, tuned ecu by KSROM in Japan, 460cc injectors, hks evc IV, NPR fmic,walbro fuel pump,apexi air filter,apexi s-afc II, 6 puck sprung hyperclutch kitturboxs bovblitz DTT DC II turbo timer,Z32 front calipers

Since then i added Q45 Mafs,550cc injectors,HKS 256 Cams intake and exhaust,HKS adjustable cam gears,ssautocrhrome exhaust manifold,and SSQ HKS BOV

[WeldingHank]

i think your hovering around 300hp with that setup