i will do that.

found out i am getting a pretty nice tax return so that will help with buying my parts.

and sold a few more parts so now i just got to call mazworx and order the stuff.

idahotuner wrote:burnouts and hitting 8000 rpms several times over heats the motor.

oh that sucks, I thought your set up wasnt up that long tho? wasnt your car tuned?, bc im running an open bov, not tuned for it yet and my car was stalling during stopping, so i would jus give it some gas b4 i came to a stop to keep it running bc i didnt get a chance to hook up the safc so i figure thats y my rings went??? idk but anyway good luck with your new build i cant wait to see it

callmeweezy724 wrote:
oh that sucks, I thought your set up wasnt up that long tho? wasnt your car tuned?, bc im running an open bov, not tuned for it yet and my car was stalling during stopping, so i would jus give it some gas b4 i came to a stop to keep it running bc i didnt get a chance to hook up the safc so i figure thats y my rings went??? idk but anyway good luck with your new build i cant wait to see it

Recirculate. Maybe? Rings went for another reason though...

Edited for misreading
Modified by DriftBoy07 at 10:58 PM 2/20/2009

callmeweezy724 wrote:...im running an open bov, not tuned for it yet and my car was stalling during stopping, so i would jus give it some gas b4 i came to a stop to keep it running bc i didnt get a chance to hook up the safc so i figure thats y my rings went??? idk but anyway good luck with your new build i cant wait to see it

You're piston rings went out because you were running an un-recirculated blow off valve without a tune? I don't get how a blow off valve could cause that?

ok. you dont necessarily need a tune for bov that isnt recirculated. and that wouldnt cause the rings to be shot. low oil pressure, over reving it. over heating. to much oil. all of these could cause rings to go.

silly question, but what clutch were you running with the old set up? what are you going with this time? i have a competition clutch stage 4 and i think its about to be on its way out.

Nice! I loved your last build thread! I will be watching this one closely

derrick113 wrote:silly question, but what clutch were you running with the old set up? what are you going with this time? i have a competition clutch stage 4 and i think its about to be on its way out.

i was runnign a ACT 6 puck unsprung with a ACT street light flywheels.

mcheddadi wrote:Nice! I loved your last build thread! I will be watching this one closely

should be interesting.

i have been talking to mazworks alot. i am not sure if i am in the moode to pay 2000 for a resleeved block. i have to talk to the local machine shop and see how much it costs for resleeving.

what kind of fram is the sr20 block? and one know i will be searchign after posting this.

idahotuner wrote:ok. you dont necessarily need a tune for bov that isnt recirculated. and that wouldnt cause the rings to be shot. low oil pressure, over reving it. over heating. to much oil. all of these could cause rings to go.

lol idk i was jus throwing idea's out there. I said that bc of the stalling out at stop signs then starting it back up..didnt really feel too good when i was doin it.. buti had no choice i was in a bad situation at homee..but thanks for the info i kno y they went noww.. im not happy but its wuteva..good luck on your build tho i cant wait to see the outcome..

I would strongly consider the BW S258 TS for your build. It looks like a nice mix between the GT30R and GT35R and just perfect for your goals. The BW extended tip line is proving to out perform the GT series across the board. Compare this map to the GT turbos your looking at http://www.timsturbos.com/S258.html

If I am not satisfied with my $250 holset HX35 I will be going BW S258 or HX40 next. I should have my car on the dyno in the next 2 weeks.

the flow is about the same as the gt3580 .63 a/r which is the flow i wanted. i am going to seriously look int othis turbo.

well i got an oil pump coming. brand new for 150. it was a good deal. i have decided to not go extremely crazy. going for a solid engine that runs about 450-500 hp. port and polish will not happen cause i cant afford it. building the bottem end is going be expensive . because of the resleeving.

So going with milder build? Although I guess ya cant really call 450-500hp MILD lol

Yanno what I think? Ill tell you...You should build an autoX car, itll give you something else to focus on rather than 100% engine work and its oh so much more rewarding than straightline racing.

Just an idea!

i was going ot build just and auto cross car. but i want it to be quick fora drag too.

my car is all built. and i am just redoing the engine.

the twin scroll but larger turbo. give a huge midrange. which will work for both

450 is mild. - i would call it a stage 3 build

600+ is wild

Im running just about the same set-up you are! Check out my build thread I am also trying to go twinscroll with a gt35r, Just wandering if u had any clue of when the gt35r twinscroll with be hitting fullboost on a full built sr??? Also where did u find a Gt35r with a t3 twinscroll flange instead of the t4 twinscroll flange??

Solow240sx wrote:Im running just about the same set-up you are! Check out my build thread I am also trying to go twinscroll with a gt35r, Just wandering if u had any clue of when the gt35r twinscroll with be hitting fullboost on a full built sr??? Also where did u find a Gt35r with a t3 twinscroll flange instead of the t4 twinscroll flange??

try this website.

kentuckyslider wrote:http://www.timsturbos.com/S258.html

i am getting my my built by mazworx well getting the resleeving and boring done by them. then will be ordering my ppistons and stuff soone after that.

idahotuner wrote:450 is mild. - i would call it a stage 3 build

600+ is wild

450 is big for me, Im not goin higher than 320ishSiked to see what you do man

im excited for this. i followed your last thread mid way through. now i get to see the whole thing through this time. it will help me since i think my rings have kicked the bucket as well.... and i wanna do a build and run a 3076 twin scroll as well. perhaps we can compare numbers when the time comes you are definetely one of the most daring sr guys

JRPS13 wrote:im excited for this. i followed your last thread mid way through. now i get to see the whole thing through this time. it will help me since i think my rings have kicked the bucket as well.... and i wanna do a build and run a 3076 twin scroll as well. perhaps we can compare numbers when the time comes you are definetely one of the most daring sr guys

sounds good. thanks for the compliment.

well i am getting my sleeving done by mazworx. plus getting all of my parts to assemble it from them too. the preppeped block will be line bored and oil groved, plus alot of stuff done. it will be one solid motor when it is done.

going to be in the $2700 range for my block and parts.

its going be interesting to see how my 4mm over bore will help torque along with a TS set up.

450 on pump gas should be really easy. then i will go about getting the car set up to more comfortable.

Idahotuner, you have some really cool builds. You actually follow through and people get to see the end result. Awesome man props to you

mazworx does really amazing work. i know their s15 drag car speaks for itsself.

but the head mechanic at a local shop here in calgary got his 300zx TT block from themi believe he also got his sr2? from them he wont tell anyone what he got done tho but its putting down 700hp to the wheels on the dyno. single turbo gt4022 or something like that with a gtr fmic nothin special....

boriquaS13 wrote:Idahotuner, you have some really cool builds. You actually follow through and people get to see the end result. Awesome man props to you

thanks dude. i allways try to follow through with stuff, i hate it when people start projects and they dont go anywhere

ok updates. Updates

parts ready to come off

pistons outtook the valves and springs outthe ncleaned the headblock allmost completely stripped gettign ready to ship to mazworxnice cleaned block and head

the head is going out for a 3 angle valve job and decking. (checkingon a P&P)the block to mazworx fora 4mm over bore making it a sr22 resleeved, deck, line bored, oil groved, cleaned, bead blasted.

idahotuner wrote: thanks dude. i allways try to follow through with stuff, i hate it when people start projects and they dont go anywhere

the block to mazworx fora 4mm over bore making it a sr22 resleeved, deck, line bored, oil groved, cleaned, bead blasted.

damn it, i wish i was able to do all of these work you just did on your engine... please do update, i might just have to take some pointers from you.

yay ordered my block specs today. and sold my turbo.

Take it from me man, don't bead blast your block and head!

I sent the head from my Supra out for a 3 angle, guides, and stainless valves by a reputable 7-M shop. When I got it back it still had glass in the cam bearing cap holes, and I didn't find out till I was installing the cams.

Just my experience on that.

BTW, what pistons are you going to run?

its only the block that is getting bead blasted. its mazworx doing it and i trust the mto do it correctly.

going with CP pistons. 90mm cr 8.5 to 1

eagle rods

ACL bearings

idahotuner wrote:its only the block that is getting bead blasted. its mazworx doing it and i trust the mto do it correctly.

going with CP pistons. 90mm cr 8.5 to 1

eagle rods

ACL bearings

Cool beans. Just be aware that there could still be glass in some spots when you get your block back.

Did you ever look into the Total Seal rings?

Could someone explain how the total ring seal rings work? This is going to be an assume build man!

boro drift wrote:Cool beans. Just be aware that there could still be glass in some spots when you get your block back.

Did you ever look into the Total Seal rings?

xhefri wrote:Could someone explain how the total ring seal rings work? This is going to be an assume build man!

about time you posted dad,

i will look into it. i am not sure how it will work

xhefri wrote:Could someone explain how the total ring seal rings work? This is going to be an assume build man!

There is a step machined in the second ring and a thinner ring(similar to outer oil ring), fits onto the step, gaps 180* from one another.

2-3% leak down, compared to 10-12% with standard rings.

Less leakage=more power, especially in a forced induction application.