Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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FastasEF
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Ok. Hold onto it for a little. I should have some money soon. I just bought a house and am still figuring out bills and what not but if you wanted to get rid of it soon go for it.


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White Comet
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codyace wrote:
Just ensure you recirculate it, and you'll be set
mines not recirculated and its fine

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Whats with the powder puff chicks?

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Didderson
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dude they're the 3 most post whorish on nico. I'm assuming they're a team now lol. It's cool but I miss WC's hedgehog.

They're like the 3 top posters lol. Yes Idaho i love the ic piping thank you! I sent u an email nub, read it!


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FastasEF wrote:Ok. Hold onto it for a little. I should have some money soon. I just bought a house and am still figuring out bills and what not but if you wanted to get rid of it soon go for it.
sweet. where did you buy a house. at. i am in no hurry. really. i dont really advertise stuff. people say they need something and if i have it i offer it.
duffman1278 wrote:Whats with the powder puff chicks?
Didderson wrote:dude they're the 3 most post whorish on nico. I'm assuming they're a team now lol. It's cool but I miss WC's hedgehog. They're like the 3 top posters lol. !
RIGHT O

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:well i am going to have it located on my cold pipe. so i wont be recirculating it. from what i have read. you can have them tune your ecu for a atomoshepere release
Why on the cold pipe? So far away from the compressor.....

And no MAF car will run well or right without it being recirculated.
White Comet wrote:mines not recirculated and its fine
Doubt it. Very much so.

Simply put: Open BOV's are ricer, and wrong for MAF cars.

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i havea therory for having it on the cold pipe.
codyace wrote:
Simply put: Open BOV's are ricer
this is an opion as well.i like the BOV sound and dont see how it is ricy at all.what is ricy is a Fake BOV on a non turbo car. i thought i reada the definition of rice was - a car that had the appearance of being fast of having power but didnt.

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bgsr240
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idahotuner wrote: i thought i reada the definition of rice was - a car that had the appearance of being fast of having power but didnt.
I think the true definition of ricer is someone who spends a ton of money on gaudy flashy made in china crap like 10 million watt stereos, lambo doors, cartoon graphics, and "dubs". Instead of quality performance parts. Its function over form, not a contest to see who can make their car look like a Turkish Bazaar on wheels lol. Just my two cents....lol.

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thank you.

my car is function over forum.it will be nice, but who doesnt want there car to look nice.

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FastasEF
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Our house is on the Northside, really close to our jobs. Makes it nice.
Modified by FastasEF at 5:24 PM 1/2/2008

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:i havea therory for having it on the cold pipe.
Which is?
idahotuner wrote:this is an opion as well.
Not opinion AT ALL. Look at how many MAF turbo cars you see unrecirculated, that run well. Less than 2 percent, IF that.
idahotuner wrote:i like the BOV sound and dont see how it is ricy at all.
BOV's are to function, not sound cool. Everyone knows you have a turbo car, why trumpet it to the world.

And even when recirced, you still hear them....so you'll get to hear the tweet and have your car not run like doodoo.

From a much smarter guy than me on why to recirculate:

Quote »You only have a problem with "atmospheric bov" in 2 conditions:

#1: the bov is open, but the engine is trying to idle. Anytime you are under 1300~RPM and the TPS is in < 1% the engine will attempt to cause an idle, using voltage from the MAF to fuel the motor. If the BOV is open at this point, and is atmospheric, it will cause the maf to read higher than normal, adding more fuel than normal, stalling the motor.

#2: the bov is open, but the engine is trying to make power. this is obviously a boost leak

During decelleration, TPS <1%, RPM > 1300~, the ECU automatically "fuel cuts". This means that whether the bov is open or closed during a decell, doesnt matter... UNTIL we get below that certain RPM where the ECU tries once more to cause an engine idle.

This is why you stall. Your engine vacuum is high during decell, and a push type BOV (such as the Type-S) will tend to hang open during a decell. So even though the ECU fuel cuts when you lift the pedal, once the decell RPM reaches 1300~, the BOV is still open because of the high decell vacuum, causing the MAF to start reading it as a boost leak.

The "fix" is to acquire/set your atmospheric BOV so that it is completelly closed during decell, around 1300RPM, no later. A BOV like the SSQV is "pull type" it relies on a very strong sudden vacuum to open it then usually shuts right after, you notice you hear the SSQV alot when you first lift, then it shuts and you dont hear another peep, no matter how high the RPM... thats why the SSQV is known as an "anti stall" BOV... because it is so hard to open, it is nearly never open during a decell and never during idle, there simply isnt enough vacuum. Unlike push type bovs, especially the ones with weaker springs, like the type-s, which unless adjusted correctly, will always hang open at idle.

But thats not normally a problem. most low-boost push type stockturbo bovs are meant to be open around idle. Why? Because those same small turbos spin very fast at idle, and are very easy to spool at low RPMS (compared to larger turbos) and the "leaky" style of the push type-bov's actually helps, when recirculated, helps to maintain idle, fueling quality around normal city driving, and even increases the life span of the compressor's blades. A small turbo usually provides more airflow than the engine can use- at idle. the easier it is for a bov to open the less surge it will experience before sweet release, and subsequently the less damage will result over time due to flexing compressor fins during surge.

I could go on, but I've already done so, do a small search theres tons of this info already because FA gets a BOV thread at least 2 times a month.i've also experimented with the SAFC as an anti stall measure. to be honest the decell-air function is USELESS. the air settings are good but once you re-start the car cold, they need to be enlarged for cold start, ruining your fine-tuned idle settings. All the SAFC does is set a maximum air-flow %, which is only usefull if your bov hangs open around those areas, which it shouldnt be to begin with if its atmospheric.[/quote]

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ok cody. i got two things. before i get to the BOV . i want to talk about the tension arms.i have the energy suspension kit. which replaces those bushings that you broke with solid urethane ones. so i thin kthere would be no need to replace the tension arms sicne i wont have to worry about that busshing going.

ok now on to the BOVeverything that artivle said that you posted had to do with a BOV beong open under deceleration. which the SSQ doent do. so all those problems are solved.

so the only thing bad will be air that is lost that isnt accounted for.which wil lcasuea rich 2nd. which would happen when ever you let of the throttle.because you are limiting the amount of air coming into the engine. correct?but all that air is being measure way back at the MAF.so either way it will allways get the same amount of air in, becasue it is controlled by the TPS.

ok my therory is that with the BOV mounted closer to the throttle boddy it will keep the air moving the same direction when the presure is realsed. becasue with it mounted on the hot pipe. all that pressurized air has to turn around for fmr the direction of flow ot rush out the BOV mounted farther back. which could created turbulance in the pipes during a quick shift. casue the air rushes abck wards when you let off to shift but them you jam right back into the throttle after the shift. that air is bouncing back and forth.so with it o nthe cold pipe it is like a Y realsing pressure but keeping the air flowing the same way.

but with that said i will look at the intake i am getting and decide from there. if i will recirculate it. or not.

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:ok cody. i got two things. before i get to the BOV . i want to talk about the tension arms.i have the energy suspension kit. which replaces those bushings that you broke with solid urethane ones. so i thin kthere would be no need to replace the tension arms sicne i wont have to worry about that busshing going.
Ah very true. I had the control arm bushings in my head for some reason. Yes, with these you won't need to change them out, however with the SPL rods, you can dial in more caster, for better turn in. For a street car, you may not need them, but for any sort of competition, it's great to have.
idahotuner wrote:ok now on to the BOVeverything that artivle said that you posted had to do with a BOV beong open under deceleration. which the SSQ doent do. so all those problems are solved.
Not true. He says they work 'better' but not right. In the original thraed on F/A, you will see that both guys that talk about BOV"s have theirs recirculated...
idahotuner wrote:so the only thing bad will be air that is lost that isnt accounted for. which wil lcasuea rich 2nd. which would happen when ever you let of the throttle.because you are limiting the amount of air coming into the engine. correct? but all that air is being measure way back at the MAF. so either way it will allways get the same amount of air in, becasue it is controlled by the TPS.[/quite]

The Maf measures the air by how quickly it cools. It gets it's value, and tells the ecu to dump in XXX amount of fuel. When you have an atmospheric BOV, it dumps the same fuel, but now there isn't as much air, making it run rich (and stalling, and the crappy stuff). When you recirculate, the lost air is re routed back before the turbo, and then keeps the air level the same.
idahotuner wrote:ok my therory is that with the BOV mounted closer to the throttle boddy it will keep the air moving the same direction when the presure is realsed. becasue with it mounted on the hot pipe. all that pressurized air has to turn around for fmr the direction of flow ot rush out the BOV mounted farther back. which could created turbulance in the pipes during a quick shift. casue the air rushes abck wards when you let off to shift but them you jam right back into the throttle after the shift. that air is bouncing back and forth.so with it o nthe cold pipe it is like a Y realsing pressure but keeping the air flowing the same way.
The air is pressurized, so it really doesn't become to effected by direction. Plus mounting it on your hotpipe makes for easier recirc
idahotuner wrote:but with that said i will look at the intake i am getting and decide from there. if i will recirculate it. or not.
Having played with maf turbo cars forever, I can ASSURE you that the car will operate and drive much nicer with it recirculated. If it didn't make a difference, do you think I would have recirced mine, and everyone else who recircs would do it?

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yea i will probalby recirculate. becasue i am getting the apex super suction kit and it has a thing weled on for recirculation

i am trying to figure out what to do for a FMIC. what do you have cody

since i have the greddy intake manifold. i need a different cold pipe. and i am planing on the P2M hotpipe with the hks ssq bov.. and i knwo i needa intercooler that can handle 400hp. i am trying to stay under 500 dollars. for the whole set up. but with just that hot pipe and cold pipe i am at like 380 bucks. so a ebay intercooler. and thne try to figure out pipes to connect the hot and cold pipe to the intercooler

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idahotuner wrote:i am trying to figure out what to do for a FMIC. what do you have cody
I actually have the Greddy RSPL on my car, namely due to finding it SUPER cheap used online :D

Greddy Offers that new M TEC kit for cars in the 350-400 range, and so far everyone seems to like it.

I think the greddy cold pipes for the intakes are in the 70-90 dollar range too....Im' sure at this point, someone else has got to make them no?

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codyace wrote:Doubt it. Very much so.

Simply put: Open BOV's are ricer, and wrong for MAF cars.
its obvious u know ur stuff and i respect ur opinion but u really come off as an @ss sometimes. the bov was not recirculated when i bought it and it ran fine, i switched from a raptor bov to the ssqv and it still runs fine, if i ever have any problems i'll recirc but it doesnt seem necessary right now. iirc someone said that sin ce its a black top sr and has a diff ecu then teh red top its easier to run an non recirculated bov, is that true? or just misinformation?

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White Comet wrote:its obvious u know ur stuff and i respect ur opinion but u really come off as an @ss sometimes. the bov was not recirculated when i bought it and it ran fine, i switched from a raptor bov to the ssqv and it still runs fine, if i ever have any problems i'll recirc but it doesnt seem necessary right now. iirc someone said that sin ce its a black top sr and has a diff ecu then teh red top its easier to run an non recirculated bov, is that true? or just misinformation?
Total mis information.

I'm willing to bet it runs 'better' when recirced. Not being an ***, just not sugar coating it either. I will admit some cars do run 'ok', but even the best running non recirced cars I've been in, still had wierd stumbling/stalling issues off throttle at random times.

On a car tha tneeds to perform on track, I can't be worried about it flooding and or shutting off ya know?

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codyace wrote: Greddy Offers that new M TEC kit for cars in the 350-400 range, and so far everyone seems to like it.

I think the greddy cold pipes for the intakes are in the 70-90 dollar range too....Im' sure at this point, someone else has got to make them no?
i was actually looking at this intercooler. as an option. and the thing with the greddy cold pipe. i found it cheeper other places but the cost of shipping makes up for it.

and i will recirculate my BOV. becasue it cost only 12 dollars more to do it. and with the super suction kit being aluminum it will still be loud. i think as far as a inter cooler i will get my intercooler off ebay. and my greddy cold pipe and HKS hot pipes w/ bov and then try to get custom pipes to conect btween the intercooler and those.

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codyace wrote:
Total mis information.

I'm willing to bet it runs 'better' when recirced. Not being an ***, just not sugar coating it either. I will admit some cars do run 'ok', but even the best running non recirced cars I've been in, still had wierd stumbling/stalling issues off throttle at random times.

On a car tha tneeds to perform on track, I can't be worried about it flooding and or shutting off ya know?
i hear ya, but ive had the car for a year and it wasnt recirculated when i got it and its never stumbled or anything

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ok guys lets not keep going on about this. lol

so i got my exhuast manifold studs yesterday from enjukuracing.com

i also got an adapter for a skinny o2 sensor. if any one needs one. i will sell it for 15$ +shipping i paid 20 plus shipping which wasa rip for me

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Does you o2 sensor wires match up with your harness?

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White Comet
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what do u mean?

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because mine is like red,black,white on the o2 sensor, but the wire harness is brown,black,brown/yellow stripe. The ground is throwing me off

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White Comet
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i'll take a look at mine later today

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duffman1278 wrote:Does you o2 sensor wires match up with your harness?
um i dont know. lol.i can check later. but i know mine just needs plugged into the harness and it works. the way i am going to do it. is ut the wires inbetween the plug and the o2 sensor and lengthen them there. it wont matter if the wires match or not i am jsut extending them.

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Alrite thanks

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NO problem. hey how did you get the custom title

duffman1278
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My write up on the gauge install

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dang it you beat me to it. lol. i will do one for a pyrometer install i guess

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Hmmm, that gives me a good idea. I think i'll go make a write-up on that lol jp, I don't even remember what a pyrometer is.


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