Idaho Tuner's 240/|SR Build thread

[codyace]

Push versus pull has nothing means nothing in regards to why a BOV should be recirculated....it's still venting previously metered air 'out' into the atmosphere, and not compensating for it. The car may run, and may not stall, and may not fall into ANY of the common issues, but that doesn't mean that it's still not right. 9/10 times, cars that don't stall, have high idle issues and or have the IACV cranked oddly. Simply put, it's not correct.

Below is a 'cookie cutter' response from JWT when people have asked this question a million times before. This isn't meant to be rude, but the guys at JWT have more experience with SR's and Turbo cars than this entire forum cobined. I would trust their opinion before anyones.

Quote »The Nissan control system was not designed to run a BOV to atmosphere. There is no way to make the ECU work with this as the amount of air flow in the system that is lost if an atmospheric BOV opens is an unknown amount to the ECU. Once the air flow comes across the MAF sensor, the ECU expects all that air to be in the system and adds the fuel based on this amount. So if you do not want to have the stalling when coming to a fast stop and/or the rich conditions between shifts, we recommend you run a recirculation type valve (also known as a compressor bypass valve). It might be possible to convert your existing valve to the proper type. Check with the company that made your BOV for this. Note that the air flow when recirculated, should dump back to the inlet side of the turbo and ideally aim at the compressor wheel in the turbo inlet. This also helps keep the turbo more responsive between shifts.

Best regards,Ben Pila (Technical and Sales Support)Jim Wolf Technology, Inc. [/quote]Food for thought: If 'we didn't need to' why would all maf based, OEM turbo cars have recirculated setups? One would think if they didn't need to design it into their setups, that they wouldn't right....?

[White Comet]

i understand where ur coming from and while it does make sense that it doesnt matter whether its push or pull type, i had just heard in other threads that people had more success venting a pull type bov to the atmosphere. the bov that was on my car when i bought it was a push type and the iacv was cranked the whole way out and idle was too high. now that i have the ssqv, i adjusted the iacv to a normal level and the car is idling solidly at 900 rpms

[nateb]

question....i saw a while back that u picked up intake mani and exhuast mani studs...i think u said 2 for 4.50 for the intake ones.............do u have a part # ?where did u get them from and how much where they?thanks

[idahotuner]

question....i saw a while back that u picked up intake mani and exhuast mani studs...i think u said 2 for 4.50 for the intake ones.............do u have a part # ?where did u get them from and how much where they?thanks

i dont have a part number for the intake studs.i just took the ones out when to the local autoparts store and showed them the studs i needed. and they just matched them with new ones. as for the exhaust manifold studs i got them through enjukuracing.com http://www.enjukuracing.com/ they are right there on the home page.

[idahotuner]

ok here is a couple of pics of my car i finally got off my cellphone. the first one is the week i bought the car.and this was at les schwabs at night lol. i made cheep a55 eye lids out of electrical tape. gives it kinda kouki head light look.

talking about kouki. WC your tail lights are called kouki tail lights/?

that makes no sense. because wasnt the kouki 240 97-98

[JRPS13]

hey, the car sure has come a long way, took me 3 days to follow this build frombeginning to end, ive got a lot of questions but just wanted to say great job!!!and the car is looking good.

[White Comet]

the taillights are kouki taillights, but not the years your thinking of for the s14. theres an s13 kouki that was made in japan. the package with the aero, sr and teh kouki taillights is the type x (sound familiar? refer to my build or do a quick search)i dont wanna clutter your thread up so if u want me to take the pic down i will but heres a kouki s13

[idahotuner]

hey, the car sure has come a long way, took me 3 days to follow this build frombeginning to end, ive got a lot of questions but just wanted to say great job!!!and the car is looking good.

yea i cant wait tell new paint and the wind shield are put in then it will be really nice. if you havea bunch of question for my hit my up on AIM idahotuner is my handle

theres an s13 kouki that was made in japan. the package with the aero, sr and teh kouki taillights is the type x (sound familiar? refer to my build or do a quick search)

i got it. i wasnt sure if it was just the type x with those tail lights or it it was all the one 180s. but i mean that couldnt be right because i have a 180sx center garnish. it is just weird that they call the tail lights koukis

[White Comet]

the only 180s with those tails are the late model koukis. and even then some might have the standard lights (not sure) what i do know is that of the kouki 180sx's, there are a few different trim levels. i cant remember them all off the top of my head but theres type s, type r, type g, type x and maybe more and maybe im wrong on some. but they specify what options it has. theres the sr20de, non aero as one package, then theres the sr20de aero package, then the sr20det non aero package, and finally the type x which is the sr20det with aero package. i might be a little off on the description but its been a while since i looked it up and its not info u use every day

[idahotuner]

ok which is the fill hole here. the on near the back or near the front

[duffman1278]

You fill it up from where the shifter goes into. Take out your shifter and put a funnel in there and put the transmission fluid in.

[White Comet]

theres a fill plug and a drain plug on the side of the transmission (actually the drain plug might be on the bottom). just fill it up in the hole that is higher on the trans

[idahotuner]

i know where the drain plug is. but as far as the fill plug it is that bolt that you take out farther back. on the drivers side. below the plat.

so i put 3 quarts in and never had anyhting come out the hole on the side.

[Slideways^Jordan]

Hey ben Listen on the drivers side of the trannsmission their is the fill plug closest to the bell houseing side away from the shifter. It has a square end on it to put a wrench on it to takit off and put it on, thats the fill plug. The drain plug is on the bottom.

Your gonna need to use one o fthose hand pumpto pump the fluid into transmission. I dont remeber what their called.

Now you can use the shifter for adding the fluid and thats what i always use no problems ever. But im prety sure nissan designed that fill plug for a coveneince way to change and add new transmission fluid And the FSM says to put 2.4 liters of fluid in.

I hope you figure it out soon.

Good luck
Modified by Slideways^Jordan at 3:39 PM 2/18/2008

[idahotuner]

well i got 3 quarts i nthe transmission right now. do you think having a little to much is fine.

just looking in the shifter hole it just doent seem liek enough. but i guess that when the grear rotate they get really lubbed up.

[Slideways^Jordan]

lol umm im not sure if you should use 3 but iknow what your sayin and yeah.

Id like to know what would happen if you do use to much Transmision fluid. Willit fry the synchros idk but maybe cody might know.

Anyone.

[idahotuner]

oh it is the square one. that thing is going be fing hard to get to lol
Modified by idahotuner at 2:05 PM 2/18/2008

[White Comet]

yeah i should have specified but it is the square one. iirc 3 is a tad too much but my books are at the garage so i cant confirm

[lrb_2000]

You should just drain out about half a quart and try to put the drain plug back in really fast lol..

[idahotuner]

well i will use the fill hole. open that up and drain the extra out.

[codyace]

Just leave the 3 in it, it'll be fine.

[idahotuner]

well i made a check list of little things i got to do before i can start my car i will post that list tommorrow.

i need my dad to get the part nocked out that he is going to do. aka wiring. other wise i might have to do it lol. and that is scarry lol. i will jsut have to take my time on it.

oh thanks cody.

[White Comet]

sounds good, good luck on the wiring, i say just dive right into it, just be careful. heres a little test for if the transmission is too full. wait til its bolted up in the car and the car is lifted off the ground in a level manner. remove the FILL plug, whatever comes out is too much (but i have the feeling u'll be fine)

[idahotuner]

thanks man that is waht i am planing on doing.

[idahotuner]

here is my check off list. of thing i need to do before i can start it. if you guys ca nthink of any little thing i a missing let me know.

Wiring1. injectors2. o23. maf4. 3 grounds5. gauges6. coilsgauge sensors installed1. oil temp2. egt3. boost 4. 02 sensorfuel lines hooked upFPR hooked up/mountedZ32 fuel filter installedExhaust bolted upClutch fan installedBleed clutch lineCoolant filledOil filledCatch can mountedIgnitor mountedCoolant over flow tank mountedIntercooler hot pipe bov bung filledHot pipe vaccum bung installedIntake pipe secured.Filter & MAF mountedIntercooler piping secured. clamped Vaccum lines1. bov2. fpr3. wastgate4. boostradiator hosesfan shroudtrann cross member nutsTranny filled with fluidshifter secured.oil fliter oil plugfill oil.Fill coolant.Connect batteryPrime engine.Start.

[idahotuner]

so i have been researching tires and such. trying to figure out the damn sizing numbers. well i think i ma going ot go with 225/45-17 up front. and 255/40-17 in the back. it should be hot

[White Comet]

just a question, but why are u changing sidewall size from front to back if theyre both 17s

[idahotuner]

well that is a good question wc. my main reason is i am getting the tires through phase2 and they didn't have 40 series for the 225. 45 was the smallest. but with it being 45 up front and 40 in the back the over all height of the tire varies from front to back by .25 mm. means it will be a level ride just wider in the back.

[Automato]

so i have been researching tires and such. trying to figure out the damn sizing numbers. well i think i ma going ot go with 225/45-17 up front. and 255/40-17 in the back. it should be hot

i don't know what kind of brake setup you are planning on running, but i find that 225's, stock brakes with brembo blanks and hawk pads, are lacking in keeping up with my brake setup. as long as you are not slammed, you could probably work in some 245's for the front and 275's on the rear. of course offset and rim width plays a big role too, but after looking around, thats the biggest setup i've seen someone run on an s13 with stock fenders and slight mods to the fenders. zilvia.net has an awesome thread on maximum rubber under s-chassis.

[idahotuner]

yea i was looking at the elite wheels. they have a 17x9 with a +offset. seems like if i went average offset like. maybe a 25 i could squeeze more tire under there. i will look for this thread though. i am looking at sportmax wheels. and going the staggered set up but we will see.