I30 Starts then dies

[smithr]

Hi, We just purchased a 1998 I30 and have noticed that after about a week of having it that when we would start it it would rev up to @ 1500 rpm for a second or two then back down to normal. Lately though, it has reved up then dies on the first try then we start it again and it's fine. It has only done that since someone filled the gas tank with 87 octane gas instead of midgrade or premium. I don't know if that has anything to do with it dying or not. Any other thoughts what may be causing it to rev then die?Thanks for your help.

[Q45tech]

Most used cars are sold to unsuspecting who never bother to pay for an expert prebuy inspection to find the defects [poor mainteance, dirt, etc].

A 10 year old car probably needs a lot of intake cleaning and checking of electrical connectors for corrosion and intermitents.

Have you checked for OBD2 codes with a scanner and if the MIL light bulb has been removed? New spark plugs? Fuel pump condition?

Any Nissan dealer can do the diagnosis [same engine/transmission].

[GerryO]

Hi,

You are very observant. Probably not much help, but here goes anyhow. The good news is that any change has to be air, fuel, vacuum system or spark related.

Do you depress the accelerator at all when or immediately after starting the car and is it easy to restart, once it dies? How amny miles on your car/engine?

A normal cold-start for my J30 (simply turning the key) involves a very short cranking period, a louder engine sound at higher rpm for a short period until the fan clutch disengages, and so on.

I had the engine die once after starting it (and it took a while to slowly die), when I started it without the air filter and MAF connected for the first time after changing the timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, etc.

Simple things to check/replace would be the gas cap seal, the air filter and possibly the fuel filter, and for any signs of fuel or vacuum system leaks.

Q45tech makes a good point about knowing whether or not the Check Engine lamp is working/connected; does it light when you turn the ignition key to ON without starting the engine?

[Q45tech]

Unfortunately a pre OBD2 J30 and a 1998 FWD I30 are about as different as you can get!All one can say is they both have 6 pistons and rods and spark plugs.

[GerryO]

Unfortunately a pre OBD2 J30 and a 1998 FWD I30 are about as different as you can get!All one can say is they both have 6 pistons and rods and spark plugs.

Aw come on, on the surface and deep down they are just cars, and alphabetically and numerically they are about as close as they could possibly be.

[oldmako]

I thought that anything after 97 was OBD2? No? When did it begin?

(I just bought an OBD2 reader for my 99....am I out of luck?)

[maxnix]

Aw come on, on the surface and deep down they are just cars, and alphabetically and numerically they are about as close as they could possibly be.

Quite defferent in engineering.

Iron block vs. alloy, chain driven camshafts vs. belts, and several others besides those previously mentioned, I am sure.

[GerryO]

Thank you for the good information to know.

[Hogg]

Having very similar problems with my 1991 Q45. Curious to know if your problem is similarly related???

[Q45tech]

Since around 1900 cranking, running, and then dieing shortly thereafter has been often related to fuel pressure dropping.

The first test a technican does it to monitor the fuel pressure, assumming the Consult show no codes.

We know from 18 years of experience that corrosion in MAF/CAS/TPS connectors can cause signal drop outs due to vibration so we always wiggle these 4 FOUR connectors when it is running . CAS has 2 on 90-93.

One can spend weeks, months, years diagnosing problems or follow our proceedures [exactly step by step] and get in solved in a day.

A 0-100 psi gasoline pressure gauge will still be useful on most 2010 models as it has for the last 25 years. Direct injection and diesels are on the way so eventually you will need a 0-2000 PSI gauge but that would be too INACCURATE for measuring 43.4 psi.