I was SO CERTAIN but was wrong =(

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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MeanGreenS13
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So ive got a BIG issue with the CA/240....

im trying to get it running for the future owner, whoever it may be. And i thought i had the issue pinpointed as being the ignitor. But i was very apparently wrong.

I have faint spark on Cyl 1 and NONE on cyl 2 3 or 4. the injectors pulse so i know the cas is working. i checked all the coilpacks via the FSM instructions. The emanage shows Green light and Yellow light which is supposedly normal, and the ECU has both red and green lights on which i also believe to be normal.

Its been so long since ive pulled codes off the ecu in one of these that i forgot how to count the flashes but it goes 1 long 2 short 3 short 4 short 5 short whatever that means.

when we first plugged in the emanage, i spaced out like the pollak i am, and forgot to unhook the ignition harness to load the firmware and there was a loud POP and an electrical burning smell under the hood area coming from the right side. Unfortunately, since i was in the car turning the key, i couldnt get out in time to see where exactly it came from

My only remaining thought is that it could possibly be a relay that controls spark or ignition but im not sure which one that is since i really dont ever pay attention to chassis wiring and fusebox. The fuses however looked fine to me.

Any help is appreciated...

my email is [email protected] phone is 7725010582 (dont call after 9:30pm if you do)my aim is xFBCxNYHCx

you can reach me at any time on any of these

thanks guys!


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themadscientist
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you didn't mention that in the email, wow. You know you have to get in there and find what burned. If it was that dramatic there will be evidence. Good luck, I don't envy what is before you. Might be easier to just put a painless harness in it at this point.

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MeanGreenS13
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my probelm is i just bought a house and am moving and have to have the car GONE by march 1st..... and i really have 0$ to spend on the car at this point... so i dont know what to do

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themadscientist
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You need to to make the best decision available to you and that may be taking a big loss selling the car. You don't have time to part it out and get some return on your investment. I would put it up for sale complete as-is and continue to try and diagnose what fried and hope you can get it running in time to raise the price.

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MeanGreenS13
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its listed at 6000 as is... lol

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Reno
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MeanGreenS13 wrote:its listed at 6000 as is... lol
Man the only thing i can think of is put it in storage for a while

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MeanGreenS13
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heh.. sotrage where.... my new house has a 1 car garage and we got a ton of **** gotta go in there. and im NOT gonna put the car on the grass cause its absolutely gorgeous and the driveway holds 2 cars... i just want to get rid of it and pay off my few small debts and sit on the money for a little while.

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Reno
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Man Iv'e always wanted a CA but for your storage question, like maybe those big uhaul rooms lol.

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MeanGreenS13
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no money man.

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Cams
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Phil, I know that you all have way more experience dealing with CA issues than me, but maybe is something as simple as what happened to me, and hopefully I can help.

From your comments I'd most certainly check all "popping" electric bits on the fusebox. I guess at this point you have narrow it down to Cyl1 by switching the coilpacks and still having the same weak spark there, which in the end gives you a small misfire when you are at WOT. (All this is an assumption of what is happening so please confirm)

You just changed the ignitor so thats not it. I would check the Ohms reading on the Dropping Resistor to confirm it is within FSM specs (6 +/-) just because.

Which leads me to my recommendation. You said you tested the CAS as the pulse fires the injectors, but I learned the hard way that the CAS also controls the spark strength and frequency. I had to deal with a 6 months old misfire due to a bad one.

Maybe a fellow CA fan lives near your area and can let you borrow his CAS for testing. I know Gabby has a lot of them.

Good luck and I hope you fix it soon enough. Great car btw.

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MeanGreenS13
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id love to find someone that would come down and let me borrow there CAS for testing. im so tired of chasing this issue. but ive not been able to find a scorch mark or anything on any electrical components which sucks. I was 100% sure that the dropping resistor only worked with the injectors and that ithad nothing to do with the coilpacks.

i can only get the car to fire up for about 25 seconds on 1 cyl and it floods out and dies. Im gonna check fuses and relays after the nascar race today (yeah im a redneck) id love for gabby to come down here but i dont know if she would. im not exactly tat nice of a person to some people lol but its just who i am i swear!

i just want to figure out my issue and im just lost. i dont know what else to do anymore

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MeanGreenS13
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someone help?

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MeanGreenS13
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i wish dee would poke his head in and offer up some ideas. im so lost and pissed off i cant think straight on this anymore

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Cams
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I was saying CAS as it controls both, fuel and spark pulses.

Dropping Resistor only controls Injectors.

I was thinking it was a misfire, but if it is flooding on 1 cyl I think its either a bad injector sticking open (swap them around), the dropping resistor failing to control that injector, a bad coil pack (which I believe you swapped already) or a bad Coil pack harness/connector for that cyl.

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MeanGreenS13
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once again.

i have spark on cyl 1. NO SPARK on cyl 2 3 or 4. Injectors are BRAND New and that is not the issue cause all injectors are pulsing. im not flooding cyl 1, its burning perfectly according to the plug when i pulled it. It just doesn have the ability to stay alive with only one cylinder firing.

im trying to figure out why i dont have spark on 2 3 or 4. ive changed coil pack harness already aswell, that wasnt the issue. All that stuf checks out, only things i havent tried are cas and working ignitor. The ignitor i just got tests the same way as my other ignitor, which makes me believe i got sent a bad ignitor

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ca18detgabby
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vero is a bit of drive....... I do have an extra CAS in a box in the corner........

being that you just changed ignitors.......... I would start there.

EDIT: so since both of them were "bad" how is the ECU? 2 bad ignitors is not out of the question, but it does lead the question that it might be something else.........

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MeanGreenS13
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well and thats what im confused with... id love someone to let me try some parts...

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ca18detgabby
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dont you have an RB25? the CAS are the same from what I understand......

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float_6969
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I just gave him a bunch of stuff to do tomorrow and see if we can get this narrowed down.

Also, as I told you before and as CAMS said, it could be the CAS too. You can have a bad CAS that will fire the injectors but not the coils.

I have a bad feeling that he toasted the ECU and it's killing his ignitors when he's plugging them in and firing up the car, but we'll see what happens.

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MeanGreenS13
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i had an S2 RB25 laying in the garage but i sold it a while back cause i needed money and it wasnt gonna be used anytime soon.

SO i just got done checking everything ryan told me to and everything checks out well. So i guess its down to either another bad ignitor, bad cas (i hope not) or bad ECU/Emanage blue which would really suck


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