I guess part of that FAQ is not the clearest. The tapping into the speaker wires is for the signal only (not to actually drive the speaker - think the RCA cables that connect your DVD/VHS to your TV). It still needs to be amplified. There is no way to power ANY aftermarket subwoofer with the stock Bose amplifier. You will still need to purchase an amplifier for the sub(s). In this case, the connection from the speaker wire in the trunk to the amplifier will remain the same. The only difference will be the connection from the amplifier to the speakers. And yes, this can be done without disrupting anything about the stock Bose system.Rellz CT wrote:now i've read through the FAQ
"Is it possible to add a subwoofer to the stock stereo?
Yes. With the Bose system, you will need to tap into the speaker wires in the trunk (it is best to do this before the amplifier). You should then use a line level converter to take the speaker wire signal and convert it to patch cables. These can then be plugged into the aftermarket amplifier. You will also need to connect a remote turn on lead (the signal that tells the amp to turn on so it is only running when the stereo is on). This can be easily tapped from the turn on lead that already runs to the Bose amp."
but im not sure if the stock amp can power those 2 subs
(4-ohm Solo-Baric L7)
up above seems like its explaining how to just add on a single sub
i want to hook up two....and these seem quite powerful
what should i do in this situation?
i really dont want to effect the quality of the original bose system because it sounds good to me already
i just want some extra bump in the trunk
thanks in advance
the first two numbers represent what year the product began.... the 08= 2008S= Solobaric12= 12" wooferL7= series of the woofer4= 4 ohms (dual)Rellz CT wrote:whats the difference between these two L7 series
08S12L74
and
06S12L74
only difference i see is the 50 dollar difference and the design
any difference in performance?
You've got $500 to spend on an amp? Man, it seems like all I do is push similar products to what is in my car:Rellz CT wrote:oh I see
Still need those amp suggestions tho
Also
Will I need a compacitor?
Whoops, completely forgot about that part of the question. I wouldn't add one. In my opinion, capacitors are largely worthless. I've used them before with minimal gain, so I'd save your money and leave the cap out.Rellz CT wrote:thanks a lot
Do u think I'll need a compacitor?
Ah yes, I also forgot to throw this info out there for you as well. That amp can push 1500 watts RMS at a one ohm load (this would be 750 watts per sub which is the max they can handle). In order to do this, you'll need to wire to a one ohm load. The rest is purely physics. Go wit the dual 4 ohm voicecoil subs. Each sub will then have both VCs wired in parallel, giving an impedance of 2 ohms. Then, wire both subs in parallel to the amp, this will give an impedance of 1 ohm that the amp sees. Check the gain setting tutorial in the FAQ to set your gains and you're done! I can safely say that the sundown amp I recommended will be stable at one ohm, so this can be done safely.Rellz CT wrote:oneeee more question
should i go with
2 ohms subs
or
4 ohms subs
what is the difference?
will i need a different amp from the one u suggested if i go with 2 ohms?
capacitors are largely useles, but in my case, they look cool!Rellz CT wrote:thanks a lot
Do u think I'll need a compacitor?
That would definitely be better than a cap, but I doubt it'll be necessary in the OP's case (I don't think 1500 watts would require an additional battery - I've run that before on just a stock battery). Rellz, if you notice electrical issues (lights dimming with bass hits, etc), maybe think about improving the under-hood battery.rjdmmfl1 wrote:seriously though, it may be worth it to put in something like an extra dry cell battery... (Kinetik 1400 maybe) that would be better than a capacitor!
We help where we can. Glad you're finding it useful. Also, if you're going to look at that Sundown amp, I'd highly recommend running 0/1 AWG power and ground. 4 AWG would be cutting it close for that bad boy. I ran 0/1 in my car and it certainly isn't that much more difficult than running a smaller gauge.Rellz CT wrote:man u guys are the TRUTH
thanks for all the help guys