I've Figured Out That I'm Going KA-T...

[Thoughtful_One]

After changing my mind ten different times, from going KA-T, to SR, to CA, and even RB, I've realized that KA-T is the way to go, but I still need some advice/guidance. I am 99% sure that I want to go this route and I just need to souce out parts. The car is a 1992 240SX with ~130K.

My Plan:

I really want to turbo-charge an engine, rebuild an engine, and swap motors, which is why I turned to the other motors, but they don't appeal to me. I'll keep the stock motor in the car in the meantime because I still need to go to places and I don't have an alternative car. I will buy a spare KA-DE engine and transmission, then have them rebuilt. Once that is done, turbo components will be bought, then finally, I will swap motors and get it running.

Goal:

Shooting for 230 WHP.

Proposed Setup:

- T3 (most likely out of a 300ZX unless I can find an appropriate flange)- Unfortunately I may have to go with an eBay manifold unless I find a good used one- eBay downpipe- 3" exhaust piping with used hi-flow cat.- stock injectors- eBay FMIC - BOV (brand is pending)- Walbro 255lph fuel pump- FMU (8:1)- New Clutch- Lightened flywheel

Since there are several people pushing high power on ~15 year old stock internals, I figured I would go with an OE rebuild kit, including a new timing kit, and oil pump. I found some sites that are under $1000. I don't know how to tune, which is why I didn't go with the SAFC and 370 CC injectors, but once I do, my list will change. I'm hoping to achieve all of this for under $3000, but I'm sure this price will change.

Is this plan feasible? This will be my first time for all of this, including rebuilding and swapping, so I know it's going to take a while to complete. Have any suggestions?

[Kaleo55]

I think if you have the luxury of building a second motor and not the one you're using, then don't cut corners. Don't buy cheap parts just to get it done, save a little longer and get the best you can afford. If you're going through the trouble of tearing down a old motor, it makes more sense to rebuild with fortified internals, especially if you are planning to boost. There are a lot of options available to you (KA24DE) so, consider them well.

[yessir240]

ha with that fmu and stock injectors at 7psi you better pray that motor last at all, forget that man start reading about tuning, safc is really easy and im sure there is someone in your area that can help atleast do 370s, and safc...

[prang11]

I am currently sourcing parts to almost do the same setup as you except I am going to run a T25. Seems to be the poor mans turbo setup and an easy way to reach 180-190 hp.

I do agree with kaleo, if you are building a motor outside your car you might as well take the time to do it right. It sounds like you are in the same boat as me wanting to turbo the car with minimal down time. Well why not put together a kit and take a weekend to bolt it all up? Thats my plan.

Good luck with the build.

[lrb_2000]

my stock injectors maxed out at 5psi on a T3 Super 60.

[Edub1]

I think if you have the luxury of building a second motor and not the one you're using, then don't cut corners. Don't buy cheap parts just to get it done, save a little longer and get the best you can afford. If you're going through the trouble of tearing down a old motor, it makes more sense to rebuild with fortified internals, especially if you are planning to boost. There are a lot of options available to you (KA24DE) so, consider them well.

I second this opinion. The stock internals are not meant for boost. Low HP not withstanding, if you're going through all that trouble I'd build a motor that will last for many boosted miles to come. Also, do it right the first time. If money is tight, take your time collecting parts. Plus, one of our sponsors has a solid rebuild for under $2,000 - I'd check that out.

I had a super 60 with a stage I exhaust. It boosted hard but seriously fell flat in the upper RPM range. I'd suggest a T3/T04E 50 trim with a stage III exhaust. The 60 might work but I'd at least find one with a stage III exhaust.

And seriously, ditch the FMU and do larger injectors and a proper tune.

[Chezedik]

Uhm, I guess no one is going to say it... Why rebuild for only 230hp, all of the existing kits that I am aware of will make that in stock form. All you need to do is install a Walbro. And an FMU can be a perfectly safe option if it is kept well inside of it's operating range. Like anything else, when you exceed the range is when things start to break. The IAP kit made 238whp with an FMU at 8psi, or so they claim. N-sport makes 232whp with an FMU at 8psi. You figure it out.

[Chezedik]

Oh, and BTW, I have the Z32 T3 that I converted to a T04b, and the flange can be had from Blaastperformance.com .

Edit: I meant Z31, not sure why I did that.
Modified by Chezedik at 12:29 PM 2/10/2007

[Florida240sx]

3k budget???? That is easy to get 240rwhp. Get Revhard mani,T3 turbo of your choice, Safc II, 370cc injectors or 440cc, z32mafs, walboro fuel pump, then whatever you want for fmic bov.... Don't forget to factor in $400 for a upgraded clutch I can build you a list if you like. Did one the other night came out to $2300.

[WDRacing]

For the record, a high flow fuel pump and a FMU will work great. Anyone who says different has no idea what they are talking about. Tuning the SAFCII isn't for everyone. If you're going for larger injectors and a SAFCII then you'll also need ignition retard on boost. So then you have the get the MSD BTM...for all of that you could get a MSII standalone.

For low boost, the FMU WILL work just fine. Just make sure the fuel pump can keep up with the pressure increase.

WD

[Thoughtful_One]

Uhm, I guess no one is going to say it... Why rebuild for only 230hp, all of the existing kits that I am aware of will make that in stock form. All you need to do is install a Walbro. And an FMU can be a perfectly safe option if it is kept well inside of it's operating range. Like anything else, when you exceed the range is when things start to break. The IAP kit made 238whp with an FMU at 8psi, or so they claim. N-sport makes 232whp with an FMU at 8psi. You figure it out.

I want to buy a spare motor and rebuid it because:

1) I can't spare any down-time with fitting the kit into my car, even during the summer. 2) I've wanted to rebuild a motor for so long, and by buying a spare, I wouldn't have to be rushed to get it done. My engine is not in the greatest condtion anyways. The spare wouldn't even cost much. It would be easier replacing all of the worn parts as well. That's my opinion. 3) Lastly I want flexibilty. One day I may want to turn the boost up and not having to worry about towing my car home.

[Thoughtful_One]

3k budget???? That is easy to get 240rwhp. Get Revhard mani,T3 turbo of your choice, Safc II, 370cc injectors or 440cc, z32mafs, walboro fuel pump, then whatever you want for fmic bov.... Don't forget to factor in $400 for a upgraded clutch I can build you a list if you like. Did one the other night came out to $2300.

If you could make me a list, that would be great. My budget did not include only parts. I had the rebuild ($800) in there and spare motor cost ($300).

[Thoughtful_One]

For the record, a high flow fuel pump and a FMU will work great. Anyone who says different has no idea what they are talking about. Tuning the SAFCII isn't for everyone. If you're going for larger injectors and a SAFCII then you'll also need ignition retard on boost. So then you have the get the MSD BTM...for all of that you could get a MSII standalone.

For low boost, the FMU WILL work just fine. Just make sure the fuel pump can keep up with the pressure increase.

WD

I didn't know that the ignition retard was necessary with the SAFCII. After an endless amount of time searching, I've heard nothing but bad things about the FMU and stock injectors/ECU. Thanks for setting that straight. I plan to run a maximum of 10 psi if that tells you anything. With Florida's help, I will post a new/updated list of parts.

[Thoughtful_One]

I am currently sourcing parts to almost do the same setup as you except I am going to run a T25. Seems to be the poor mans turbo setup and an easy way to reach 180-190 hp.

I do agree with kaleo, if you are building a motor outside your car you might as well take the time to do it right. It sounds like you are in the same boat as me wanting to turbo the car with minimal down time. Well why not put together a kit and take a weekend to bolt it all up? Thats my plan.

Good luck with the build.

The reason why I am not just piecing a kit together is that, in my experience, and according to Murphy's Law, " if something can go wrong, it will." I don't want to rush through this. Besides, I have to do everything by myself; I have no one to help me. I don't think my motor is in prime condition to be boosted. I would be able to sleep at night knowing that nothing has been overlooked.

[Florida240sx]

Revhard mani $300Turbo of your choice t3 flange $400Wastegate if not on turbo $200Bov $150Fmic $200Piping and couplers $100Custom downpipe $100Safc II $200Fuel pump $100SR 370cc injectors $100Clutch $400Oil lines $100$2350 and the pricing is high...

[Chezedik]

Well, I may or may not have one for sale soon, with LOTS of goodies. I am getting fed up, and may switch sides. I may be willing to sell it with the turbo kit and all. Email me and we can discuss it further.

[Thoughtful_One]

Florida's route seems the way to go. Although, I will replace the SAFCII and 370CC injectors with an FMU and stock injectors, since according to WDRacing, I will need a device to retard timing with the SAFC. This project seems very do-able and manageable now. Thanks for the help, I'll keep everyone updated on what I do.

[babowc]

hm..rebuilding a motor is no easy task.im going for it as well, and i dont expect it to be a cake on a platter.

btw, you need to do your own research and figure it out..people telling you what to do, and what to buy isnt going to help achieve what you want in the end.

find out for yourself what your power goals are, also read up on here and forums dedicated to turbocharging the KA.

anyhow, you have alot more planning to do..i've been planning for nearly 1.5years now, and im finally getting things rolling. or ?

[nissanfanatic]

Why do you guys spend all that money rebuilding an engine and then do SAFC and 370s..?? Maybe your money is going to the wrong stuff..?? If you are spending over 1000 on rebuilding an engine, you should at least spend that on an ECU tune and good injectors(deatschwerks)..

You don't need to build an engine for 230whp. You shouldn't rebuild unless you are going for over 350whp. If you pop it under that power level, you ****ed up, not the engine..

To the OP, I'd just buy a known good engine and keep it as a backup if you must..

[babowc]

it all depends on the person.

you can build up a motor just for peace of mind.or you can build the motor to withstand anything you'll throw at it.

either way..there are folks that rebuild a spare motor while boosting the stock motor. its not a bad idea, imo.

[Thoughtful_One]

hm..rebuilding a motor is no easy task.im going for it as well, and i dont expect it to be a cake on a platter.

btw, you need to do your own research and figure it out..people telling you what to do, and what to buy isnt going to help achieve what you want in the end.

find out for yourself what your power goals are, also read up on here and forums dedicated to turbocharging the KA.

anyhow, you have alot more planning to do..i've been planning for nearly 1.5years now, and im finally getting things rolling. or ?

I know a rebuild is not going to be easy, that's why I consider this a long-term project; I don't plan to have this done in a month. I understand that people telling me what to do is not what i should be doing, but I am seeking adivce as to what others have done. I am seeking only a very basic setup for now, and what I have been told by Florida is what I figured a while back; I only wanted a list of prices. I've also checked out ka-t.org as well and I did learn a good deal.

Since my funds are limited, there is not a great deal of research I can do on choosing between diff. parts. For what I am seeking, I thought it would be best to ask for what setups people are using; nothing wrong with that. It's not easy"researching" on this site since there is so much misinformation thrown around; in my opinion, there are only a few good threads that you can rely on to be factual. When going to independent sites, yes, there is info. present, but it usually calls for parts that would be out of my price range.

I don't understand what's wrong with this setup. It seems to give me good power which is very much streetable within a safe pressure range. It may not be the most efficient setup, but it surely delivers what I want. Plus, there is always room to grow. I can always purchase more advanced electronics in the future. ~230WHP will provide more than enough power for the streets.

[Thoughtful_One]

Why do you guys spend all that money rebuilding an engine and then do SAFC and 370s..?? Maybe your money is going to the wrong stuff..?? If you are spending over 1000 on rebuilding an engine, you should at least spend that on an ECU tune and good injectors(deatschwerks)..

You don't need to build an engine for 230whp. You shouldn't rebuild unless you are going for over 350whp. If you pop it under that power level, you ****ed up, not the engine..

To the OP, I'd just buy a known good engine and keep it as a backup if you must..

I know I could get away with replacing the oil and water pump and some other components, but I want to rebuild because I've never done it, and I like knowing how things work. I never said I was going to use expensive parts.

[Chezedik]

You really do not need to even replace that. Seriously, the IAP kit is good for that power level, and many people have had a ton of success with them. Also, the KA holds on to compression forever, so unless you know of a problem you are not telling us, then you are fine. Remember, it's just as easy to blow up a new motor, as an old when, if you have a bad tune.

[Thoughtful_One]

You really do not need to even replace that. Seriously, the IAP kit is good for that power level, and many people have had a ton of success with them. Also, the KA holds on to compression forever, so unless you know of a problem you are not telling us, then you are fine. Remember, it's just as easy to blow up a new motor, as an old when, if you have a bad tune.

One of the main reasons whay I want to swap is that my motor sounds/performs pretty badly. It's very noisy, doesn't make much power. When I checked the ECU for codes, the Camshaft Position Sensor came up, but according to the FSM several things could be wrong. That is not the only thing that's wrong, just one of the main things that I know for CERTAIN. I want to check oil pressure and compression, which I don't think will be very good..

[Chezedik]

But rebuilding the engine won't change the fact that you need a distributor (but buying my motor may, with the lifetime warrantee'd (sp?) dizzy that I have ). Also, the KA is just kind of a noisy engine, check your valve lash, and that will help it. I also have a ton of lifter shims if you need them for adjusting lash. The oil pump on the KA is pretty tough, so unless someone just totally abused this engine, you may not be giving it all the credit it deserves.

[Thoughtful_One]

But rebuilding the engine won't change the fact that you need a distributor (but buying my motor may, with the lifetime warrantee'd (sp?) dizzy that I have ). Also, the KA is just kind of a noisy engine, check your valve lash, and that will help it. I also have a ton of lifter shims if you need them for adjusting lash. The oil pump on the KA is pretty tough, so unless someone just totally abused this engine, you may not be giving it all the credit it deserves.

For the oil pump, by purchasing a lower mileage engine, it will be much easier to replace out of the car. I want it to be a learning experience. I really don't plan to make much power, I just want to do it myself. If I had the money, I would probably purchase your motor, but I don't. That budget that I set up is over the span of probably a year or two, not a few months. I thought I could get this done by the summer but I now don't see this happening.

I may get in touch with you about those shims if you're willing to sell them to me. For the time being, after oil pressure is checked, I'll remove the guides, and re-shim the valves, as well as replace the distributor.

[Chezedik]

Fair enough, spec out the parts, and you will save a ton. Many parts do not need replacement during a rebuild, just look in the manual it will walk you through it. The dizzy is expensive, I may suggest a used unit, but that is your business. I paid over 200 bux.

[1995240sxSE]

thread jack.... chezedik how did you like dealing with blaast performance? I have a turbo from them. The guys customer svc seemed pretty good. and the rebuilt turbos are at a decent price! Wel will see the quality down the road with my turbo!

[Chezedik]

Well, I only got the flange from them, but it seemed alright. I can't say either way, they didn't wow me, but it wasn't unpleasant. It was just there.

[Thoughtful_One]

Fair enough, spec out the parts, and you will save a ton. Many parts do not need replacement during a rebuild, just look in the manual it will walk you through it. The dizzy is expensive, I may suggest a used unit, but that is your business. I paid over 200 bux.

I think I may have found my savior. There is a guy selling a motor and transmission with 67K original miles. With this, I won't have to replace anything really, if it is in good condition. I will have to put the rebuild on hold for awhile since I KNOW it will cost a good deal of money. I am kind of leaning more towards the SAFC and SR 370's now because it seems like a safer option.