i throw shifts really hard...

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
mmm240
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(like kick and throw),but i get a little grind through every gear. what do you think would be the problem? i hear a pivot fork maybe, or a clutch fork?

the car that i bought with a manual that used to be an auto, has a stage 3 (should handle 400whp)(clutch specialties) clutch, and a fidanza flywheel. i recently found out that he did not replace the ecu with a manual one. i have changed the trans fluid to a full synthetic red line fluid,

can anyone help me out. why do i still get a grind?

should i replace the clutch fork and pivot fork? the car still takes the gear, but with a little grind involed. i just can't help but throw it hard, when i am on the gas i am on the shift.


Joe
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you drive like that and wonder whats wrong?

your syncros are toast. you need a transmission rebuild

stop driving it like its a racecar, it isnt.

mmm240
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i know what you are saying and i know i shouldn't, but i can't help it, i want to be a race car driver some day. how would i go about fixing them syncros?

mmm240
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i'm sorry for being a noob with a manual trans, but i am, where can i get myself a bulletproof trans?

SeanC
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z32 swap is supposed to be the ****. or a (i think) a CAAZ or maybe its CUSCO gear set.

Jiggyfry
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hes right, your synchros are dying man. As for rebuilding, i dont think thats something you'll wanna tackle yourself, then again it depends on your mechanical skill level. It might actually be easier to get yourself a used transmission.

1990flatblack240
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mmm240 wrote:(like kick and throw),but i get a little grind through every gear. what do you think would be the problem? i hear a pivot fork maybe, or a clutch fork?

the car that i bought with a manual that used to be an auto, has a stage 3 (should handle 400whp)(clutch specialties) clutch, and a fidanza flywheel. i recently found out that he did not replace the ecu with a manual one. i have changed the trans fluid to a full synthetic red line fluid,

can anyone help me out. why do i still get a grind?

should i replace the clutch fork and pivot fork? the car still takes the gear, but with a little grind involed. i just can't help but throw it hard, when i am on the gas i am on the shift.
If it has the automatic trans your fine. It just removes the rev limiters or the speed limiters.. Not sure which try a search..

And if the trans grinds its your syncros.

I hope you dont "throw shifts really hard" during daily driving. Once a week or something is alright, but still not good for your trans.

Joe
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mmm240 wrote:i know what you are saying and i know i shouldn't, but i can't help it, i want to be a race car driver some day. how would i go about fixing them syncros?
heres your first tip on becomming a racecar driver

dont drive like a racecar driver on the street.

240Knightrider
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Does it grind with all the gears if so...slow your shifts down a little and try to practice shifting gears while the clutch is still disengaged. Sounds like you mind be try disengage the clutch before you shift fully.

If you have the cash get a B&M shifter, it is supposed to help that.

mmm240
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mainly only 2nd and 3rd, it's not just me though, a couple buddies of mine who have been driving manual for the past 5 years or so even grind gears when the drive my car.

i bought it with some kind of short shifter (not sure which one though), the gears are very close together, the shifter fits into the auto center console which is maybe 2 inches wide!

i will look into a rebuild of some sort

but i still don't know if this could be caused by a bad clutch fork (i heard that could cause grinding and should be replaced with every clutch installed), does that make any sense?

Joe
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a bad clutch fork would cause it in all gears

this is from bad driving.

DjPantsSpecR
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or a slave. its possible you should try to adjust the clutch pedal as a temporary fix

but im with everyone else, you synchros are ****ed. I bought the car with a bad first gear synchro, adn pretty soon a bad second gearsynchro, the the third adn the forth, they all went pretty fast, except the fifth gear, it never went out. you wont just lose all of them at the same time, either they were gone when you got the transmission or something happened in which:

you bent the clutch fork, or your slave is going, or the pedal was always misadjusted from a bad install. if you blew a clutch spring or broke the clutch fork pivot i dont think you would be able to shift with he clutch at all, so at least its not that....

quit driving like a moran and check what i just said

edit: i forgot to add crappy short shifters can contribute to this problem as well... so make sure everything is still installed correctly on that


240Knightrider
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Everyone needs to be quiet about him driving like a moron..

He drives no different than anyone else that races their car. Nobody barely puts it in gear when they are racing.

Joe
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240Knightrider wrote:Everyone needs to be quiet about him driving like a moron..

He drives no different than anyone else that races their car. Nobody barely puts it in gear when they are racing.
theres a big difference between doing it all the time and doing it at the track.

All_Motor_KA
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Power shifting is not good on a 15 year old transmission. Hell, it's not even good on a 1 year old transmission.

240Knightrider
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Kamin wrote:theres a big difference between doing it all the time and doing it at the track.
my mistake...I was thinking he was talking just when he was driving hard.

mmm240
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sorry for not explaining completely about when i do this.

it's not all the time, maybe only 10% of the time

yeah i know it's bad, i'm still just hyped about driving this car and i get a little excited.

you can say what you will about my driving methods, it doesn't bother me.

i was just wondering what you all thought might be causing this grind, so thanks to those who answered that

about the clutch fork, should i just get a factory one, or is there an aftermarket one i should get?

crzycav86
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Learn how to double clutch.

Then you'll be even more of a race car driver, and you'll save your transmission.

mmm240
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that's depressing clutch and pulling out of gear, depressing clutch again and putting into gear?

i never understood the advantages of that

school me if you don't mind

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dickie
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bulletproof transmission?

try a quaife custom-made dogbox once you learn to shift the right way

mmm240
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d!ck wrote:
try a quaife custom-made dogbox once you learn to shift the right way
ooooh, only 10k, how much can i get for a kidney?

i guess i'll look into a rebuild

crzycav86
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mmm240 wrote:that's depressing clutch and pulling out of gear, depressing clutch again and putting into gear?

i never understood the advantages of that

school me if you don't mind
go to howstuffworks.com, then either go to how transmissions work, or do a search for double clutching.

Basically, by double clutching, you manually do what the syncros automatically do for you - matching the speed of the the gear that is directly connected to the motor to the speed of the gear that is directly connected to the wheels.

You can do it on a downshift by blipping the throttle while the transmission is in neutral, and putting it in gear when the rpm's are matched the speed they would be in the next gear(this also makes the downshift very smooth).

...and you can do it on an upshift by putting the transmission in neutral, and letting the revs drop until the rpm's are what they should be for the next gear. It's also very smooth.

mmm240
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ah ha now i see. i already do that when i downshift

thanks for the explanation!

and i bet i know why my syncros are bad: i stored the car at my brothers place this past winter, and when he makes a downshift he just throws it into gear (no trottle blip). i tried to tell him how much smoother it is when you match the revs, but he's too damn stubborn.

he won't driving my car anymore

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Red coupe
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The throttle blip doesnt spin the input shaft of the trans if your letting the clutch back out when you do it....he would just be putting more wear on the clutch by using the friction between it and the flywheel to bring the engine up to speed, rather then doing it manualy...

Reguardless your brother not matching revs isnt gonna kill your sycros...Jamming it from one gear to another working the hell outa them will.

crzycav86
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Before you blip the throttle, the transmission has to be in neutral, and your foot has to be off the clutch for it to work properly. When you blip the throttle, you push in the clutch and put it back in gear.

It's called a double clutch because you use the clutch once to get the shifter out of gear, and then push it again to get it back in gear. But if you're good enough, you can do the whole thing without pushing the clutch at all.

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Red coupe
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^^^ for double clutching to work, you can still leave the clutch in and rev to match engine and drive line speeds to keep the car settled...

mmm240
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i wish i could heel toe in my car, my knee won't bend that far, it's more like a toe toe

thanks for the clarifications!

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SX APPEAL
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just move the seat back a little, then you dont have to bend your knee as much.

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Red coupe
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its more in the hip, and ankle then the knee....Just turn your leg so that your knee faces your door, haev have more room for my knees while heel toe'ing then while normal driving.

dustyk
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The name "heel toe" is very misleading. You really dont use your heel at all. Just slide your foot a bit to the side have the left side of the ball of your foot on the brake and the right side of the foot hit the gas. You do more of a rolling motion with your ankle and use the right edge of your foot to blip the throttle. Works much better than trying to rotate your whole leg to try to hit the gas with your heel.


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