i think the answer to my problem had been found!... maybe?

[johnshop]

so, as some of you may recall, i have posted countless times about my car having power when is cold but after 5 minutes it disappears, under 3k rpm is hopeless, and hesitates, and misfires while accelerating gently. anything over 3k RPM it pulls strong. oh and just overall s*** gas milleage. 1/4 of a tank is not giving more than 20 miles.... so that averages out to like 80-90 miles for a full tank...not kidding.

so i checked a list of things you guys told me to and all checked ok, so i am running out of options, i am gonna run the codes tomorrow again and hopefully it confirms i have bad o2 sensors, or hopefully just dirty connectors.

what are your thoughts guys? do all the problems i seem to have can be caused because bads o2 sensors?

[t.mcginley.jr]

Bad O2 sensors cause all kinds of problems, including running super rich and getting horrible mileage

[nissanfreak12]

It may not throw codes, but if you put the ecu in mode II, that checks the O2 sensors. Also make sure you don't have Dielectric grease in the connectors for the O2, I heard it messes up the reading.

I agree, your symptoms does sound like O2 sensors or CTS, but if it has been a while since you changed them or unsure of age, never a bad idea to get new ones.

[johnshop]

is the CTS the coolant temperature sensor?

and i am sure both are as old as the car...

so it think i will try and change the CTS, it looks old and the connector seems to be loose, is not snugly like the rest of the connectors, this was quite easy to unplug, and that was a surprise since i always have a hard time disconnecting stuff on the engine bay

so i am going to replace the cts and see if that does it

[t.mcginley.jr]

is the CTS the coolant temperature sensor?

Yes, and make sure you replace the right sensor. There's two sensors threaded into the water pipe, the bigger one that's closer to the passenger side is the one you wanna replace.

[Shoey2]

mine does the exact oppsite. low power under 3K when COLD. smooth as butter when warm...im going to check TPS and MAF readings and put in some injector cleaner in the next fill up

[johnshop]

mine does the exact oppsite. low power under 3K when COLD. smooth as butter when warm...im going to check TPS and MAF readings and put in some injector cleaner in the next fill up

i always heard that those injectors cleaners really don't do nothing at all?

[t.mcginley.jr]

mine does the exact oppsite. low power under 3K when COLD. smooth as butter when warm...im going to check TPS and MAF readings and put in some injector cleaner in the next fill up

i always heard that those injectors cleaners really don't do nothing at all?

It might make the situation slightly better, but its usually just a bandaid. You can get reman'd NA injectors(sonic cleaned and flow tested) on ebay for ~$120. I have a set in mine and they work great, plus they come with both new upper and lower o-rings. The sellers name is "TLFperformanceparts". They also sell TT injectors in 370cc, 400cc, 550cc and up.

[johnshop]

It might make the situation slightly better, but its usually just a bandaid. You can get reman'd NA injectors(sonic cleaned and flow tested) on ebay for ~$120. I have a set in mine and they work great, plus they come with both new upper and lower o-rings. The sellers name is "TLFperformanceparts". They also sell TT injectors in 370cc, 400cc, 550cc and up.[/quote]

Each? Or the set? On their webpage they seem to be going for 236 bucks which is still a great deal, comparing to new ones and the fact that they are just the same.and have a somewhat OK warranty of one year. http://www.tlfperformanceparts.com/Rema ... 0ZXNA.html

[t.mcginley.jr]

Yeah for a set. It depends on which ones you get, new style vs. old style but its still cheaper than a brand new set.

[nissanfreak12]

i always heard that those injectors cleaners really don't do nothing at all?

The only one I have found to make any difference to me is BG44K, its like $20 a bottle/can, but it worked great in my Jeep and a few friends Jeeps. Food for thought.

[johnshop]

i always heard that those injectors cleaners really don't do nothing at all?

The only one I have found to make any difference to me is BG44K, its like $20 a bottle/can, but it worked great in my Jeep and a few friends Jeeps. Food for thought.

Uh. Never seen that one on stores. Where can you get it at?

[nissanfreak12]

I think Napa has it, that is whe I got it at, but most of the time you have to order it

[Shoey2]

we use it at my work in all the service 3 and 4s. we rarely have injector issues with any of our high mileage long time owners. its not a miracle in a bottle but throwing one in every 6 months with a fill up isnt a bad idea. fuel filters cant catch everything remember.

[johnshop]

forgot to ask, so besides just going ahead and changing the cts, is there a way of checking for it?

[Ace2cool]

I'm a tard and disregard this post.

[johnshop]

so, this?:

i should unbolt the CTS, and mark the location ( meaning and which one is the cts and not get it confused? )

and then about rotating you mean the key?

then, what should i hear/look for?

[Ace2cool]

Oh god, CTS. I'm sorry. I was talking CAS. I've been up since 10am on Sunday, so I should probably go to bed. There's a way to check the temperature sender (dip it in hot water and watch the gauge) but not sure about the CTS. You can use a multimeter and see if the resistance changes when putting it in hot water, but that's not gonna tell you what the spec should be.

It's a $25 part though, so at least it's a relatively cheap one.

You did clean the connection on it, right? That's like step negative one.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Oh god, CTS. I'm sorry. I was talking CAS. I've been up since 10am on Sunday, so I should probably go to bed. There's a way to check the temperature sender (dip it in hot water and watch the gauge) but not sure about the CTS. You can use a multimeter and see if the resistance changes when putting it in hot water, but that's not gonna tell you what the spec should be.

It's a $25 part though, so at least it's a relatively cheap one.

You did clean the connection on it, right? That's like step negative one.

Wow I had to re-read the last like few posts a few times to figure out what was going on haha

But anyway... you should probably buy a new CTS just because. I cheaped out and bought a $12 one off ebay, but that's because I was pissed off at my car for puking coolant out of the heater core. You should probably get an oem one like Ace said

[johnshop]

Oh god, CTS. I'm sorry. I was talking CAS. I've been up since 10am on Sunday, so I should probably go to bed. There's a way to check the temperature sender (dip it in hot water and watch the gauge) but not sure about the CTS. You can use a multimeter and see if the resistance changes when putting it in hot water, but that's not gonna tell you what the spec should be.

It's a $25 part though, so at least it's a relatively cheap one.

You did clean the connection on it, right? That's like step negative one.

i did clean the connector, it was fairly clean, but it seems to be loose, is not like the other connectors on the rest of the engine that are so damn hard to get off compared to this one. this comes right off no questions asked.
so i already have the part coming in from z1, i just wanted to test

and yeah go to sleep, you clearly need it