I think im a idiot

Post by **xckid** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:34 pm

im not sure i know some of you on hear have read my thread about my brake problems and i checked my brake fluid after i had check my moms and realized i almost had none so i im thinking would this have been the problem . if it is im such an idiot

Post by **navysnail** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 3:46 pm

i havent read your thread, but if your fluid is low, you need to find the source of the leak. check pad lining thickness to make sure they are not excesively worn

Post by **xckid** » Tue Aug 30, 2005 4:00 pm

will do just need to buy a jack.

Post by **574-240sx** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 6:21 pm

If you ran it dry you may need to reblead your brakes. Most likely if the resivor(sp?) was dry you have a leak. My guess would be a bad master cylinder if adding fluid and bleading all 4 brakes doesn't work.

Post by **xckid** » Sun Sep 04, 2005 3:39 pm

Okay i lifted it up rear drive side brake was hard to take off needed Wd40. the out side pad(one closet to the tire) was pretty worn the inside was okay.but the piston in the caliper seemed kinda far out.dont have clamp big enough to push it in so i put it pack it still the same. The ebrake cable moves freely unless theres a ceratin amount its supose to move.no leaks on any of the lines. I tride the passenger side those pins where on there pretty tight wasnt able to get them off. outside pad still had a lot of life but couldnt see the inside pad. So what do i have to rebuild the brakes.

Post by **xckid** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:59 am

where can i get some stainles steel lines

Post by **NISTECH** » Mon Sep 05, 2005 9:51 am

If you can not compress your rear calipers, stainless steel lines are the least of your concern. You need to see if the pistons and the slide pins will move freely. if they dont you need to replace your rear calipers as you likely wont be able to remove the pins for a rebuild. At that point you would want to blead the brakes and see how they feel. After you have corrected your problem,what ever it is as I hadn't seen your other thread either. Then worry about upgrading to SS lines.

Post by **Chezedik** » Sat Sep 10, 2005 12:54 pm

Rear calipers take a special tool to compress them, because of the parking brake screw mechanism. It is about $10 and available at any parts store. It is cube shaped with a whole bunch of goofy notches in it, and holes to put in your 3/8 drive ratchet. If that does not work, then you will need to rebuild or replace them. My advice is to replace them, once you get inside of one of these calipers, it is very difficult to put back together.

Post by **xckid** » Sat Sep 10, 2005 5:24 pm

I called around for rear calipers cheapest was $119.29 At advanced auto parts. for both sides loaded. When i bleed the brakes do i use the ebrake lever or pump the pedals also does the car have to be on.

The reason i had asked about SS lines was i had also asked my uncle he said that lines might be cloged and the fluid isnt going back which makes the brake pedal stiff and the calipers doing what there doing. He is a Mechanic.

Thanks for all the help. everbody.

Post by **Chezedik** » Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:29 pm

First, I used to work at Advance not a month ago, if you get them unloaded they are about 79 each. Second, I am telling you that you just need the tool to reset them.

Post by **ricebike** » Sat Sep 10, 2005 9:32 pm

yes, the infamous "rubik's cube" they should also have a tool loaner kit that has different size/configured discs to use... in the same manner:

push while turning clockwise to retract piston back into caliper housing...

get your uncle to Mentor you w/ your 1st attempts at this job... either that or [SARCASM]buy me a plane ticket & i'll help u out![/SARCASM]

k, well since u didn't see any external leaks & fluid was low, (but not empty?) low brake pad material is the culprit.

compress those pistons back in & you'll see a rise in fluid level @ the master cyl.

ps: u didn't mentioned if u checked the front brakes as well...

replace pads 1st, then go about upgrading the hoses...heck i got an 89 w/ original hoses!

edited to add sarcasm html tags

Seriously, it'll be better to have a mentor your 1st time around this relatively easy-but-you're-screwed-big-time-if-u-fuk-up job. Give that uncle a cas-o-beer or somethin'

GL w/ your experience!
Modified by ricebike at 12:55 AM 9/12/2005

Post by **xckid** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 2:56 pm

Okay so ill buy the little cube thing brake pads . i havent checked the front yet i only checked for leaks in the front put didnt actually take the brake caliper off.. ill probaly do all that this weekend. Sorry if i had enough money to buy the ticket i would . Okay well il post on it buy Sat or sun.

Post by **xckid** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 12:54 pm

Okay so if i do that my problem should be fixed. right .

Post by **Chezedik** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:11 pm

The front will be compressible with just a C-clamp, but open the bleeder, and tighten it before you let the clamp off, do the same on the rear. This will prevent damage to the master cylinder and proportioning valve. Also, if you are already there, you should replace the fluid. The service interval is 36mo/36K mi, and no one ever follows it. But if you are getting stainless lines, wait until then. I just did all at once.

Post by **xckid** » Tue Sep 13, 2005 1:38 pm

hey can i adjust the E brake lever before or after i put that pads on. I know its that little nut, right now i gt like 17-19 clicks .

Post by **ricebike** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 5:15 am

"...you'll haveta adjust parking brake cable aFTER the pads/calipers are assembled."

6-8 clicks.

when you disconnected the caliper from the rotor to clean & relube the sliding caliper pins, u have to unbolt the parking brake cable from the caliper...(i did when i haveta do that job)...

did you also check/replace the front pads too?

Post by **Chezedik** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 8:02 am

Nice one

Post by **xckid** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 1:03 pm

haahhahahaha thats funny

okay what do you mean relube the sliding caliper pins the ones the bolts go into that hold the caliper is that it. No i havent checked the front ill do that right now.

I just checked the front and the pad wear was good the bolts were hard to take off. ummmm ohhhh the inside of the cyclinder and like rust flakes in there and the outside of the pads was like peeling off flacky like the pad itself was good. No leak. I think i have Power steering leak seemed kinda messy those little rubber cover on the rack were torn and all oiliy like. My car is full of suprises. And not in a good way why cant i find like two 100 dollar bills some were buried in the seats.or like a treauser map. All in all i still like my car.
Modified by xckid at 5:46 PM 9/14/2005

Post by **xckid** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 6:09 pm

Hello ^^^^^ can somebody reply pls.

Is there anything i should know about the rear brake assembly like explosion if done wrong you know that good stuff.

Okay what im going to do

lift up take off tireun bolt caliper, lube the pins(which i dont know what they are) buy special tool open hood remove brake cap cover so the fluid has some where to go. Replace pads but back on bolt on caliper bolt on tire . Repeat on other side. The set car down adj. e brake lever to 6-8 clicks.put brake cover back on close hood driver around Right.

Did i do anything wrong. Also what kinda lube do i use and how much is it.Do i pust the caliper back in with the brake pad on and push on the pad or just on the piston it self. Just want to make sure i do everthing right. What do the pins look like. Thank you.

Post by **xckid** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 9:56 am

Okay well im assuming the pins are where the bolts go into im gonna be working on it today.

I think im a idiot

I think im a idiot

Re: (xckid)

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