If you're truly checked the areas you said you did, youneed to turn your focus on the cam timing (the physical setting of the camshaft gears and belt) and/or your crank angle sensor. The crank angle sensor can go bad without giving you any code. Please check those before you post again. Deekota2240 wrote:Here is my problem and only problem:::
After i drive my car for 5 min, my car dies but does not stall. The revs will not go up and i hear HEAVY gargaling coming from the exhaust. The car does not shut off, I just cant drive because the power disappears, no throttle response, even with the pedal down the car does not move, i just hear rumbleing from the exhaust. BEFORE the 5min my car drives GREAT, no hesitation nothing, and it can idle all day long with no problem.
NO ecu codesMy timing is 15degChanged fuel filterTPS is at .5 and 5VIdle is great at 750I looked for vacuum and boost leaks for atleast 4 hours today using some carb and choke cleaner.My Vac is at 20hgEvery injector i pull i notice a big difference in idle, so i guess they all work, same goes with the coilpacksFuel Pressure is at 32 on idle and 40 at WOTOil pressure is at 20 once the car warms up
I do not have time for this anymore since i work 40hours per week and i have been driving someone elses car for the last three months.
PLEASE HELP
Because your car runs, IMHO, I'll rule out the ignitor. And since that's all it can do is run (no power), I'll bet $.50 that your CAS or the exhaust cam key is done. Don't be afraid to take it off and inspect it because these parts are prone to fail.kota2240 wrote:I checked the physical placement of the gears. Both gears line up with the marks on the black cover while at TDC which is 0deg. I just havent had the chance to test out the CAS using the FSM yet. If i dont come up with a solution by this week, The guys from Rhombus Tuning or better known as Ride Revolution are going to come by and look at it
Don't worry about the FSM and whatever it says about voltage. You need to remove the crank angle sensor, inspect the camshaft key and try another CAS if they key is in good condition. Like I stated in a previous post, crank angle sensors go bad and can have no fluctuations in standing performance that can cause the computer to flash a code. In human language, they can go bad without giving a sign (They're old as hell).kota2240 wrote:Dee sent me his ignitor, I swapped them out and it still happends. I checked out the CAS today and its getting 0-5v in terminal A and B while rotating the shaft like the FSM says too. So that checks out. Any other way i can check this thing out? Im getting pissed
If there's no one close to you that can help you, I guess I can! But the earliest will be on Monday! Let me know.....................kota2240 wrote:anyone have a spare CAS that i can use, please? Ill pay for shipping, if that does not solve the problem i will ship it back. If it does solve my problem ill buy it from you. THanks
Something is wrong with that CAS or the exhaust cam's CAS driver key because that CAS is a wee-bit advanced. I've seen countless CAS positions and yours is not in the correct spot for a stock ecu and fuel system. Plugs are very lean and signals to me that your ignition system is dropping spark and fuel signals along the way which tells me your problem is either the CAS or the exhaust camshaft. And the reason I know this is because I've been where you are once upon a time when I used chipped ecus and stock wiring.kota2240 wrote:Here is what my timing looks like, just to make sure...
This is how my CAS is position to run at 15deg
this is what my sparkplugs look like, They look lean but they are usually covered in fuel and dipstick smells like fuel too.
sorry about that, that was me, the motor we were having problems running 9-11AFRs at idle was the one that had bad compression on one cylinder and lower compression on two others. i think he fried the rings from hitting boost cut way too often, or broke a ringland and possible melted the piston some.shift240sr wrote:compression turned out to be cold 150,140,80,140 oil in the cylinder and back up to 150-160. rings and or ringlands are gone in this motor.
time for CP pistons and a trip to the machine shop for it...