I seriously need some help with this MOTOR

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
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kota2240
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Car: 92 Nissan Coupe W/ CA18ddet

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Here is my problem and only problem:::

After i drive my car for 5 min, my car dies but does not stall. The revs will not go up and i hear HEAVY gargaling coming from the exhaust. The car does not shut off, I just cant drive because the power disappears, no throttle response, even with the pedal down the car does not move, i just hear rumbleing from the exhaust. BEFORE the 5min my car drives GREAT, no hesitation nothing, and it can idle all day long with no problem.

NO ecu codesMy timing is 15degChanged fuel filterTPS is at .5 and 5VIdle is great at 750I looked for vacuum and boost leaks for atleast 4 hours today using some carb and choke cleaner.My Vac is at 20hgEvery injector i pull i notice a big difference in idle, so i guess they all work, same goes with the coilpacksFuel Pressure is at 32 on idle and 40 at WOTOil pressure is at 20 once the car warms up

I do not have time for this anymore since i work 40hours per week and i have been driving someone elses car for the last three months.

PLEASE HELP


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kota2240
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Car: 92 Nissan Coupe W/ CA18ddet

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Forgot to mention im running a complete stock fuel system at stock boost

damesta
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Check your temp sensor and 02 sensor, really sounds like the temp sensor is keeping the ecu in closed loop mode after the cars warmed up when it should be running open loop. Possibly flooding the engine. Your fuel pressure is a little high as well. Should be 28psi at idle with the vaccum hose connected, or 36 psi with no vaccum. Other than that, everything looks good.

boost_boy
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kota2240 wrote:Here is my problem and only problem:::

After i drive my car for 5 min, my car dies but does not stall. The revs will not go up and i hear HEAVY gargaling coming from the exhaust. The car does not shut off, I just cant drive because the power disappears, no throttle response, even with the pedal down the car does not move, i just hear rumbleing from the exhaust. BEFORE the 5min my car drives GREAT, no hesitation nothing, and it can idle all day long with no problem.

NO ecu codesMy timing is 15degChanged fuel filterTPS is at .5 and 5VIdle is great at 750I looked for vacuum and boost leaks for atleast 4 hours today using some carb and choke cleaner.My Vac is at 20hgEvery injector i pull i notice a big difference in idle, so i guess they all work, same goes with the coilpacksFuel Pressure is at 32 on idle and 40 at WOTOil pressure is at 20 once the car warms up

I do not have time for this anymore since i work 40hours per week and i have been driving someone elses car for the last three months.

PLEASE HELP
If you're truly checked the areas you said you did, youneed to turn your focus on the cam timing (the physical setting of the camshaft gears and belt) and/or your crank angle sensor. The crank angle sensor can go bad without giving you any code. Please check those before you post again. Dee

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kota2240
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Car: 92 Nissan Coupe W/ CA18ddet

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I checked the physical placement of the gears. Both gears line up with the marks on the black cover while at TDC which is 0deg. I just havent had the chance to test out the CAS using the FSM yet. If i dont come up with a solution by this week, The guys from Rhombus Tuning or better known as Ride Revolution are going to come by and look at it

pulsar gtr
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It sounds as if you have an intermittent ignitor, as these are known to go bad all the time, if you have another one swap it with, it will be worth a try.

Cheers,

Rafi

boost_boy
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kota2240 wrote:I checked the physical placement of the gears. Both gears line up with the marks on the black cover while at TDC which is 0deg. I just havent had the chance to test out the CAS using the FSM yet. If i dont come up with a solution by this week, The guys from Rhombus Tuning or better known as Ride Revolution are going to come by and look at it
Because your car runs, IMHO, I'll rule out the ignitor. And since that's all it can do is run (no power), I'll bet $.50 that your CAS or the exhaust cam key is done. Don't be afraid to take it off and inspect it because these parts are prone to fail.

Dee

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kota2240
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Im going to try and take some pics of the setup. My exhuast cam has the key and the CAS has the slot and they fit together perfectly.

My car has power, once it warms up it dissapears only under load. Dee just make sure i get the ignitor from you by Friday and ill take that bet LOL. I did some reading up on ignitors, they say a big symtpom of one going bad is they heat up which causes the car to malfunction and then once cooled, they begin to work properly.

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float_6969
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I'm thinking ignitor as well. The fact that it's fine when it's cold, and only has problems when under load makes me think that's what it is.

+1 Ignitor

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kota2240
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Dee sent me his ignitor, I swapped them out and it still happends. I checked out the CAS today and its getting 0-5v in terminal A and B while rotating the shaft like the FSM says too. So that checks out. Any other way i can check this thing out? Im getting pissed

boost_boy
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kota2240 wrote:Dee sent me his ignitor, I swapped them out and it still happends. I checked out the CAS today and its getting 0-5v in terminal A and B while rotating the shaft like the FSM says too. So that checks out. Any other way i can check this thing out? Im getting pissed
Don't worry about the FSM and whatever it says about voltage. You need to remove the crank angle sensor, inspect the camshaft key and try another CAS if they key is in good condition. Like I stated in a previous post, crank angle sensors go bad and can have no fluctuations in standing performance that can cause the computer to flash a code. In human language, they can go bad without giving a sign (They're old as hell).

Dee

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kota2240
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anyone have a spare CAS that i can use, please? Ill pay for shipping, if that does not solve the problem i will ship it back. If it does solve my problem ill buy it from you. THanks

boost_boy
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kota2240 wrote:anyone have a spare CAS that i can use, please? Ill pay for shipping, if that does not solve the problem i will ship it back. If it does solve my problem ill buy it from you. THanks
If there's no one close to you that can help you, I guess I can! But the earliest will be on Monday! Let me know.....................

Dee

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kota2240
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That sounds fine, Thanks

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kota2240
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Dee im going to send you some money, so you can ship out the CAS. Thanks

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eds13
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wheres middilothian? theres a guy in Ronoke thats really good with ca's. heres his email address [email protected]

boost_boy
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Part is on it's way.

Dee

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kota2240
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eds13 thanks for the info, I sent him an email

Dee, Thanks again

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kota2240
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Here is what my timing looks like, just to make sure...



This is how my CAS is position to run at 15deg

this is what my sparkplugs look like, They look lean but they are usually covered in fuel and dipstick smells like fuel too.


boost_boy
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kota2240 wrote:Here is what my timing looks like, just to make sure...



This is how my CAS is position to run at 15deg

this is what my sparkplugs look like, They look lean but they are usually covered in fuel and dipstick smells like fuel too.
Something is wrong with that CAS or the exhaust cam's CAS driver key because that CAS is a wee-bit advanced. I've seen countless CAS positions and yours is not in the correct spot for a stock ecu and fuel system. Plugs are very lean and signals to me that your ignition system is dropping spark and fuel signals along the way which tells me your problem is either the CAS or the exhaust camshaft. And the reason I know this is because I've been where you are once upon a time when I used chipped ecus and stock wiring.

Dee

Not_a_sr
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think im having the same problem with a friends CA right now, we are getting 9-11AFRs at idle, with the SAFC i cannot take any fuel out and we are running a 440/450 CHIP on stock injectors so it should be lean already, i can add fuel somtimes and stall it out as i put the AFRs low 9s.

tomorrow i will be inspecting the CAS and cam its rotated all the way counter clock wise i believe... ive suspected this as the problem for a few days now but the owner is in and out so much its hard to get him to listen to me. im also getting irratic injector noises everyonce inawhile on certain injectors, loud ticking that i can hear over the cars exhaust from inside.

we have a spare motor swap now that we can pull parts from it should be fixed by this weekend even if we have to go as far as swapping motors.

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kota2240
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****........... I still have the same problem. I noticed that after 5-10min on load the car just hits a wall at 2-3500k rpm and wont move since there is no throttle response. Ill be sending your CAS out on FRIDAY. Thanks Dee, Any other ideas.

shift240sr
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compression turned out to be cold 150,140,80,140 oil in the cylinder and back up to 150-160. rings and or ringlands are gone in this motor.

time for CP pistons and a trip to the machine shop for it...

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kota2240
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^wow off topic lol

Not_a_sr
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shift240sr wrote:compression turned out to be cold 150,140,80,140 oil in the cylinder and back up to 150-160. rings and or ringlands are gone in this motor.

time for CP pistons and a trip to the machine shop for it...
sorry about that, that was me, the motor we were having problems running 9-11AFRs at idle was the one that had bad compression on one cylinder and lower compression on two others. i think he fried the rings from hitting boost cut way too often, or broke a ringland and possible melted the piston some.

i have like 4 240 people in the shop most days now, so we all leave computers signed on randomly...

we now have an SR20 in the crew, i maybe getting tempted to switch over

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kota2240
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just wondering, My idle is at 800rpm, when i unplug the tps it goes up to 1700rpms and stays there? Im just trying to go through all the steps again and figure this crap out

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kota2240
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dee your confirmation number is 03052710000240713889 http://www.usps.com

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kota2240
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I FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I READ RICO's RECENT POST REGARDING HIS SENSORS AND HE SAID THAT HIS MOTOR WAS IN OPEN LOOP BECAUSE THE O2 WAS UNHOOKED. SO THAT GOT ME THINKING( THAT WAS THE ONLY SENSOR I HAVE NOT REPLACED). MINE WAS HOOKED UP BUT THE SENSOR WAS BAD SO I WENT OUT TO BUY ONE FOR 40.00 AT ADVANCE AUTO AND IT FIXED MY PROBLEM.

THANKS

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kota2240
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Thanks for all the responses

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float_6969
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Wow, that doesn't make any sense at all, but if it works, then congrats!


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