I now support everyone when they say the N1 oil pumps are pieces of f&^kin $h1t!

[SullivanRacing06]

well thanks to the infamous n1 oil pump i now have a fkd up rb26! i got aound to taking my motor apart last night and what did i come to find? my n1 pump sounding like a mirachica! shake it and it souded like it had 20 pieces of metal in it, so i drill the philips head srews out of the back cover on the pump nd what do i find????? 38 lil pieces of broken pump! none of the bearigns spun ( thank god ) i even had a tophat crank collar installed and this ****ty pump still broke!!!! the worst part is i stil have a factory 8200rpm redline, and i dont drive like a honda driver always at redline, so? options? im thinking a nice new greedy pump? any suggestions? hint? donations to the tom needs to rebuild his rb26 for the third time now due to a third oil pump comming apart fund??? well ill hopefully get all this situated soon.

[Shocker]

power level and pics of said damage? What happened while driving when it failed?

[WhatsADSM]

Man that sucks! I really feel for ya man. Although it gives you a little more reason to throw some forged goodies at it.

As for the pump... I still really wonder about the machining on that crank or something... An N1, or stock for that matter, really shouldn't just let go at stock redline levels.

As for new pumps, I heard good things about Jun and Greddy and Tomei. Haven't heard much feedback on the HKS but I assume its okay.

BTW what other oiling mods do you have? Oil restrictor? Enlarged returns? Custom return from the head?

[Coolwhip]

got a JUN here if you're intersted. Sucks to rebuild multiple times due to oil problems. Thats the same story as this 4G63 we did up a few years back.

Hit me up

[gawdzilla]

factory redline is 8000

[SullivanRacing06]

i have forged internals already, no oiling mods, i do plan on openign up the return holes now that its comming back apart, ive read tat i need a tomei oil restrictor if running a higher flowing oil pump, whats that about? what all else would i need to do to keep this stupid *** motors oiling system to be able to handle revs? and about tophat there phone is now disconected??? WTF

[SullivanRacing06]

power level and pics of said damage? What happened while driving when it failed?

ive never had the car on a dyno, i wasnt even running her hard wen all this happened!!! normal boost was at 21psi, i hate the rb oil pump problem
Modified by SullivanRacing06 at 9:24 AM 7/7/2008

[DeclareYrWar]

i have forged internals already, no oiling mods, i do plan on openign up the return holes now that its comming back apart, ive read tat i need a tomei oil restrictor if running a higher flowing oil pump, whats that about? what all else would i need to do to keep this stupid *** motors oiling system to be able to handle revs? and about tophat there phone is now disconected??? WTF

http://www.skylinesaustralia.c....html that should be helpful

[l0nestar]

normal boost was usually at 21psi, at 60 psi of fuel pressure, always ran rich, i hate the rb oil pump problem

Holy crap man. How is that 'normal'? I know you have forged parts, but what snail are you running??

[Sil240]

Bro if you've rebuilt that motor 3 times.Just go with a Dry sump system and one of those Accusump pre-oiler systems.

Thats my suggestion.

[gawdzilla]

Bro if you've rebuilt that motor 3 times.

...means you're doing something wrong.

[Coolwhip]

and Seth thought he had it bad with oil issues...

[Neejay]

...means you're doing something wrong.

+1 Man...

[Joe]

Bro if you've rebuilt that motor 3 times.Just go with a Dry sump system and one of those Accusump pre-oiler systems.

Thats my suggestion.

its one or the other, not both.

drysump>>>>accusump>stock

...means you're doing something wrong.

**** yes. the simple fact you are running 60 psi of fuel pressure and have never been on a dyno says you have no idea what you are doing.

[mello88]

Wow, that sucks. I read your oil pressure thread and was wondering what happened...

I must ask, how the hell does the same motor destroy 3 oil pumps?? Is there something else causing this same problem over and over... I'd hate for you to lose a Greddy/HKS/Tomei pump next.

Joe I think when said 60psi fuel pressure, he meant 60psi @ 20psi of boost not at idle LOL.

[fast_s14]

get some pics of the damaged pump im curious to what it looks like

[SullivanRacing06]

...means you're doing something wrong.

seeign that i have a crank collar, what else would you suggest for the oiling system? im about to buy a greedy pump, seeing that the pump str8 gernaded into a bunch of pieces how am i doing omethign wrong? the snail is a 33d greedy housing.

[74260zt]

Sounds to me like your thrust on the crank my be out of spec...

If your using a twin plate clutch, and the stiffer pedal pressure has worn the thrust, the crank may be walking forward when you engage the clutch, then the collar possibly bottoms out on the oil pump gear, pushing it forward and destroying it after time...

[Coolwhip]

Ditto...

Thrust could of got worn as well with the heavy clutch being pressed at start up pushing on that bearing and starting the engine, since at that time there is no oil pressure the wear rate increases.

Bypassing the starter safty switch on the clutch pedal prevents this start up occurance.

[StricNyne]

possible harmonics issue ? maybe crank pully issue, i heard the n1 pump isnt that bad, better than standard oem, but no where as good as greddy or tomei ( i heard jun sucks *** according to sau)

[gawdzilla]

my guess is thrust bearing issue (clearance or worn out), heavy clutch depressed on startup, overall rotating assembly balance, or crank pulley balancing issue. i'd start by going to a new machine shop and getting another engine builder seeing as how this is your 3rd time. who knows, 3rd time's the charm.

[jdmser]

I've heard the 1jz and 2jz motors have the same issue due to crank walk. My N1 has seen 8k+ with no problems.
Modified by jdmser at 3:14 PM 7/3/2008

[RB_Seth]

and Seth thought he had it bad with oil issues...

thanks Ricky, i lol'd when i saw that (just now)

I've had one motor be ruined by loss of oil pressure and it sucks alot, I can't imagine having to rebuild for a third time... Good luck with it and keep us updated on what you find

[BHFR-GTR]

as far as oil pumps go, tomei is the next best thing to the dry sump, that is the one eric hsu recomended to me, and he also said that if you have a stock pump or a n1 unit, DO NOT rev over 8000, it will not take it. i will have to say that i trust what he says

[Carl H]

n1 pump here revving to 8k no issues for over 20k+mi...

[SullivanRacing06]

ive always delt with mike at tophat doing the machine work on the crank, i dont push down on the clutch when i start the car. it had a competition clutch 4 puck as the clutch (which gernaded on me btw), im sorry but i dont see why i should send my motor off to have it built. id trust my work over anyone elses. i called nismo parts, were i got the n1 oil pump from, and the operator of there site is away till this upcomming monday, so every things on hold till i get word back from him and competition clutch, im selling my durango so that help with the next build, im either gonna try the nismo pump n get my crank machined again or go with a bc kit,

[Carl H]

lol, there is your problem right there...dealing with tophat.a local shop did my crank and all the machine work, fitting the collar was one of the cheapest things done (50$) and i have had no issues.