G37 REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE DRAIN

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ImStricken06
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G37 REAR DIFFERENTIAL FLUID CHANGE DRAIN:

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PRETTY SIMPLE STEPS:
Required Tools & Supplies:
1.) 3/8 Ratchet & 3inch extension
2.) 10mm Hex Bit/Allen socket [$4.99 auto parts store]
3.) Fluid Pump ($5.99-$14.99)-[any auto parts store]
4.) 80w-90 or 75w-90 Gear Oil (GL-4 or 5 doesnt matter.) ($6.49-$8.99)-[any auto parts store]
5.) ramps or vehicle lifts/jacks so you can crawl under the car.
6.) oil/fluid catch pan

this is the 10mm Hex Socket that i have.
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this is the pump i use:
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[TIP] ALWAYS UNSCREW THE TOP BOLTS FIRST. YOU DONT WANT TO DRAIN THE FLUID OUT, AND THEN FIND OUT THE FILL BOLT IS STUCK AND YOUR UNABLE TO REMOVE IT, THUS UNABLE TO REFILL WHAT YOU JUST DRAINED [TIP]



your going to see tiny metal shavings on the magnetic drain plug. this is a good time to clean that gunk and flakes off.
keep in mind that the helical gears do wear as you drive, so keeping fresh oil and a clean magnet to catch new shavings
is a good idea. DOING THIS SIMPLE PROCEDURE EVERY 30,000miles WILL KEEP YOUR AWD SYSTEM GOING FOR YEARS.
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REPLACE AND TIGHTEN YOUR DRAIN PLUG TO 35 FT/LBS

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Install the pump hose in the TOP fill hole. The fill capacity is roughly 1.5 qts or 1.40 liters. Once you get close to the fill amount (1.5 qts), the fluid starts to leak from the hole, as a sign it's full.

Replace fill plug. Tighten fill and drain plugs to 35ft/lbs. Be sure to clean off any drips or spills.

WHEN YOUR DONE, GO OUT AND DO A COUPLE FIGURE 8's SLOWLY TO WORK THE FLUID, AND LISTEN FOR ANY CHATTER. IF NONE EXIST = YOUR DONE.


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audtatious
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Looks like I missed the vote. Hope you documented it regardless ;)

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ImStricken06
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since i didnt get the feedback i thought i would, i didnt take any pics. i reused a couple images from my rogue differential write up, and found a g37 differential pic(courtesy blackbetty) and did a simple write it up over it in photoshop. hope this helps. This is pretty easy. Its less steps than an oil change.

JUST KNOW THIS: IT DOESNT MATTER FOR THE DIFFERENTIAL IF ITS GL-4 or GL-5. (it only matters in the manual transmission to use GL-4 due to 'yellow metals' aka COPPER. GL-5 eats up copper. You can play it safe and us GL-4 all around. I bought a couple bottle of the same stuff for both jobs.)


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