i need some assistiaaanccceeeee please maf issue

[rb25detilovit]

so heres my deal i have a rb25 in a 95 240 with a flashed stock ecu for 10psi i was getting some weird idling so i decided to cut my maf wires to lengthen them because there were awfully close to my exhaust manifold so i thought the heat my be disturbing the reading i re wired and forgot to put shrink rap on the bottom splice wires so i cut my the wires after i tested it without soddering and shrink rap car ran fine with the lengthened wires so i cut the wires again to sodder and shrink rap properly. being tha it was 12 40 am i crossed wired the maf and now my car wont idle properly with the maf plugged in it idles terribly low and sounds bad when i give it gas black smoke puffs out the back and when i unplug my maf completely it runs fine but my redlines appears to be 3000 rpms now and once it hits it goes right back down so i got a new maf from a96 maxima thats what i had in it but i figured by cross wiring i might of fried the maf but it still did the same thing with a new one so now im stuckk i took the wire all the way out from behind th emotor and notice it was spliced multiple times any body have any ideas i tried reseting the ecu and battery un done to see if it could possibly reset itself but no luck same symptoms and my car ran completely fine before this except for a sporatic idle high low high low high when hot and stopped low when first running but sometimes i got a decent idle after running it was really sporatic hence why i decided it might be the heat on the maf wire. please help i know this is the right place i just need some advice I MISS BOOOOOOSSSSTTTTT

[eh?]

Check your fuses, if not you may have burnt up the ecu. Open up the ecu and check the bottom side for burnt solder traces.

[Cjmartz2k]

I stopped reading that mess about 3 lines into it. It's called punctuation. Give it a shot becausereadings***likewhatyoupostedmakesmewanttokillbabybunnies.

[rb25detilovit]

yeah sorry. im not great on the comps. Ill check my ecu tomorrow and make sure all the fuses are good. thanks for the help. Once again sorry for the no punctuation didnt realize its the same as writing likethiscausethisisalothardertoreadthan words with spaces in it just imagine it with periods. it may come to you. but thanks for your looksie. and thanks for the advice eh? ill remember to put periods and what not so cjmartz3k doesnt want to kill baby bunnies

[rb25detilovit]

well yeah i checked the fuses checked the ecu no burnt soder traces. no blown fuses so im stuck again maybe my ecu was fried. i just dont see any traces of it. any body have any ohter ideas ? the wire that has the shield around it was cut multiple times would that have anything to do with it? or the ground that is inside the shielded wire should that be grounded to something or what?

[Darius]

I hate to be Cpt. Obvious but if it ran fine before your 12:40 am wiring job, wouldn't one think of rechecking the wiring? And if it was my car, I would re-do the harness from the first splice and make sure the signal wire is shielded to ground.

[rb25detilovit]

Thanks Darius ill do that tomorrow and see what happens. sometimes be captain odvious is good for people like me. I m just learning about these cars.

[rb25detilovit]

Hey so i checked my wiring made sure everything was ok no cracks etc. and no luck. Bought a brand new maf and no luck. When my maf is unplugged cars idles fine and no smoke, when i plug it in it stumbles and idles very low. So my next question is what can i use as a shield the signal wire? just electrical tape or shrink wrap? or any other sensors that coudl be doing this?

[Darius]

What ECU do you have because I didn't think the RB25 ECU's could be flashed. Or maybe I'm just being dumb.

And flashing an ECU for 10psi is pointless unless it has larger injectors. The stock ECU, injectors, fuel pump, and turbo are all good for 12 psi with NO tuning.

[Neejay]

What ECU do you have because I didn't think the RB25 ECU's could be flashed. Or maybe I'm just being dumb.

+1...let us in on the secret. I've only heard of using a Z32 ECU or a RB20 ECU (both slightly modded of course)

And flashing an ECU for 10psi is pointless unless it has larger injectors. The stock ECU, injectors, fuel pump, and turbo are all good for 12 psi with NO tuning.

Again, +1.

[Cjmartz2k]

They can be flashed, but it's WAY expensive compared to doing a Z32 or R32 computer. I have seen a couple "Mines" or some other JDM brand computers floating around. I believe somebody told me once they were flashed, they could be again fairly easily.

And about tuning on only 10psi, not needed, agreed, but I wouldn't say pointless. I'm sure you guys know how insanly rich the factory tune is at only 10psi. There's some power to be had with a good tune. That being said, most of the generic "chipped" ecu's over here just add MORE fuel for the anticipated higher boost, and remove crap like the speed/rev limiter, boost cut, etc.

[rb25detilovit]

ok well its a mines tuned ecu has the mines placque and certificate of warranty. Still nobody answered my question does the signal wire absolutley need to be shielded? even if i just want to test with new wires? because im getting .4 v to the maf signal wire and im getting no change with open throttle. not to mention my motor puffs out black s*** as soon as i plug it in i cant see why it would do this. Could it be a temperature sensor?