I need info on how to use BG products flush system.

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mattd1979
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Car: 1990 Pearl White Q45 plain Jane with 266,000 miles. 2015 moonlight white metallic Q70L with 20” wheels, sport brakes and a 5.6L at 58,000 miles.
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I borrowed a BG products flush system that you connect to compressed air and it has a canistor that you remove and fill with the product and then you connect it to the vacuum line of the engine and it creates a mist under pressure. The problem is that I don't have any directions on how to use it and I don't know how much pressure I need to set the regulator to on the system after I fill the container with the induction cleaner and this has to be returned by tomorrow afternoon. Please helpThanks

Matt,Jacksonville, FL



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mattd1979
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I tried to post a picture but for some reason it doesn't work.

I just need info on how to use it.

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mattd1979
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I also have the part number if needed. It is Part No. 9220

[IMG][/IMG]

Q45tech
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45-50 psi is good for all uses. Rail or Induction fog [with adapter].

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mattd1979
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Is the fog created by that piece on the end? I Had three cans of fluid. Air Intake System cleaner #206, Fuel injection system cleaner #210, and the additive that you put in the tank #208. I Never got to use the piece in the picture above. I took it back to him and he gave me one that has a needle that pierces the side of the can. He told me to take the fuel injection cleaner and hook it to that piece of equipment that has a needle to pierce it and connect the other end of the part to the vacuum hose that connects to the brake booster and let the engine suck it out until it was empty. I was explaining to him that I thought that I was supposed to bypass the fuel line and let the engine run on that injector cleaner #210 until it was gone but he said that it would be to strong of a chemical alone. Was this the wrong way to use that fuel injection system cleaner?

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mattd1979
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Here is a pic of the above.[IMG][/IMG]

Q45tech
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There are 2 PROPER Different METHODS and 3 different chemicals necessary........if you don't know what you are doing at worst you can have an engine fire at best you will waste the chemicals.

The first step after spray cleaning MAF, is to manually clean the throttle body and plate to perfectly shiny brass. Then you use spray/fog attachment to wash all the dirt past the throttle body: Plenum, runners, heads, valves into combustion chamber where it is burned away.You then go for a test drive to blow out everything.

Then you connect BG system to fuel rail inputblock off returnline] to do the same with fuel damper, rails, pressure regulator, injector screens, injector insides, pintle tip at idle................then you go for another blow out drive.

The whole process takes a few hours to do correctly for optimum results.

What I do every year in Spring-------system cleaning.

The picture below is the strongest air induction product DANGER this stuff is last resort not to be use by MORTALS the vapors alone will give you cancer and peel the paint off the shop walls.......I am definitely not kidding about this item.

We have a group discussion [all techs who are potential fathers are asked to step outside] before using this extreme item always start with the more normal BG products first. I string 3 lengths of air hose together and use this product outside far away from passers by and I get away until it is finished fogging.

You really must take time to study all the BG products and systems.

Q45tech
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Start with this product to vapor fog induction system.

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mattd1979
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How much do they charge for the following?BG Supercharge® II Part# 202

Your supposed to use this per each fillup to maintain clean injectors and valves. My tank is 22 gallons so I'd be using 1-1/4 bottles per fillup. I'd be looking at buying a case of this after I do all of what we have discussed.

I have attached a picture.
Modified by mattd1979 at 11:15 AM 3/12/2006

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mattd1979
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bumped

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elwesso
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What do you want to know that isnt discussed on BG's website, on the product instructions, or hasnt already been covered!

Q45tech
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As with all gasoline detergent addditives you must equate the cost per gallon vs prolonging the time you have to do a rail flush.

You could do a rail flush every month [over kill unless you use regular fuel].

All in all a can of BG44k should allow you to get 3,750 miles between applications with premium top tier fuels...........that's $15 per 200 gallons or 7.5 cents per gallon. Might be interesting to see if Regular fuel and BG 44k would work in cool/winter...........

If you use BG44k regularly you probalbly don't need a rail flush except every 30,000 miles or even 60k.

Few Q ever get one period.

8-10 cans of BG44k cost about the same as a rail flush.

IvoryJ30t
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i like to mix the ISC and air intake system cleaner together and spray into the throttle body and IACV. [with 44k in fuel]

probably not the correct way to do it, but it works for me.

Q45tech
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I keep the inside of plenum spotless [as brand new] all the way to the rear with periodic methods.

Most I see are black [vs shiny aluminum] gooey Flithy Ugly Dripping mess.

A few months ago pulled the plenum for KS and new hoses. Then brush/cloth cleaned lower runner to spotless.

Checked all injectors [relubed orings] every one as good as the day in Jan 1990 they were installed........no cracks on plastic shield just clean and shiny. 305,000 miles.

Lots of BG over the years.

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Q451990
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Q45tech wrote:Checked all injectors [relubed orings]...no cracks on plastic shield just clean and shiny. 305,000 miles.
Can you elaborate on this a little? Did you remove the injectors from the rail, or just spray some silicone spray under the caps and round the pintile tips?

Heath

Q45tech
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How do you Totally examine the injectors [screens] without removing from rail and replacing all the orings?I keep looking for a reason to use the brand new injectors I have collected from Ebay over the years.

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Q451990
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I guess I haven't found a really good way to remove the injectors without damaging them - i either end up chewing the tops up with some sort of plyers, or damaging the pintile tips trying to push them through from the bottom... about a 50/50 success rate...

Heath

Q45tech
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Stuck because you didn't bother to check them previously? At every plenum hose replacement [80k 180k 300k]. Since the o rings are going to be changed anyway use a rubber [o ring solvent].


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Q451990
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Q45tech wrote:Stuck because you didn't bother to check them previously? At every plenum hose replacement [80k 180k 300k]. Since the o rings are going to be changed anyway use a rubber [o ring solvent].
Makes sense... what exactly am I looking for? Damage to the screens? Other than cracked plastic tips (visible while still in the rail) and out of spec. windings (fails an ohm test) - I'm not sure what I'd be looking for anyhow.

My first injector failure on Q1 was at about 110K if I remember correctly - and they were solidly stuck in place. Not sure if they'd be much better at 80K.

Heath


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