i need help asap right now - emergency

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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hungryjoseph
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Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 2:46 pm
Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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my slave cylinder went out on me last weekend, and it's doing it AGAIN tonight. i NEED this to be working tomorow for drifting in manasses. basicaly it loses all pressure when i press on it multiple times. the more i press, the more pressure that it loses, then it goes all the way to the floor, gradually. if i pull it back up with my foot after it hits the floor, it regains pressure/stiffness and same thing happens again. is this my slave cylinder going out? or do i just need to bleed it again? i have an exedy stage 2. is the pressure plate too much for this slave cylinder? do i HAVE to upgade to a nismo? i used the same oem slave cylinder on my exedy stage 2 for about 7 months through many clutch kicks and dumps and burn outs, and it held up fine until that one night. the new one i got is 18$ from advanced auto...


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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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im no expert but it looks like the fluid isnt returning to the cylinder until u pull the pedal back up. Dont worry papasmurf can answer the question! If no1 answers properly post the question in the newbie thread. All my questions get answered there.

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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i also forgot to mention this is an s14 sr20, s14 transmission, if that makes a difference at all....

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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i'm going outside to bleed it right now, but i have no brake fluid, grrrr

aucerumo
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u check to see any fluid leaking? either clutch master or clutch slave. if nothing leaks then u need to replace clutch master and bleed it. btw brand new oem clutch slave is about 45bucks. oem clutch master is about 100ish. hope that helps.

mchkc240
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dude sounds "leaky" too me. Are you sure there isnt any leaks. GOODLUCK!!!

datsun2401972
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Car: 90 Nissan 240SX XE coupe

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Find a friend. Tell him to get under the car and watch what is going on while you pump the clutch pedal.

If he can't tell you what's up, then you get under the car. If you can't tell what's up.....buy all new parts!

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mattscar
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Car: 1989 240sx, 1992 Miata

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Well when my slave cylinder went out that little boot was loose and was leaking like a BICH!

So I just replaced both the CMC and the slave.

Drewster
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Car: 1991 240sx

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can you physically see brake fluid on the ground underneath the slave cylinder, and is the fluid level in the m/c getting lower? if so there is still a leak. however if the fluid level isn't going down then it seems like fluid isn't returning to your m/c, which is what i would look at for the source of the problem

goldeneye9mm
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Car: 95 S14 240sx

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see now master cylinders can leak internaly. so check under your dash for fluid and on your firewall. once is builds up enought fluid inside it'll come out in one of those places. also it coulg have a torn seal in the cmc. unfortunatlly you cent always see the leak.

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ArcherV20
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I had the same problem in my S13. Turns out it was the slave and the master. Apparently it's ideal to replace both at the same time.

funigui
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Car: I HAD a 1991 240sx coupe. woked NA motor. ran like 14.5 ish. blew it up @ 140 after an ECU reflash.

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i was gona say it sounds like an internal leak in the master

LayNLow240
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Car: 92 240 coupe

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Just replace the slave cyl with one from autozone and if you still have that damper box on, take that **** off. It would take longer to bleed the clutch system with the box on, than to remove it, bleed the clutch, and you would still have time to do a few other things.

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srpowered240sx
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Car: 90 240sx-sr, 92 F-150, 00 bmw 323ci, 1991 s13 coupe, 99 F250 Dsl

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have you changed the master cyl?? it might have crapped out on you too. if you bleed, and still no avail.....might want to look into that.

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hungryjoseph
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the salve cylinder is new already, and nothing is visably leaking. the fluid's at the same level. i went drifting on it like that, because it would only lose pressure after about 15 - 20 depresison of the clutch which was enough clutch kicks for the course. i talked to some guys there and i found out i bled it wrong. apparently i'm suposed to have the clutch pushed down, open the bleeding valve, close it, build pressure, push clutch down, open screw, close, then lift clutch, build pressure, etc. i just pumped the fluid out without closing the valve... i'll try it tomorow and see

datsun2401972
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Car: 90 Nissan 240SX XE coupe

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hungryjoseph wrote:apparently i'm suposed to have the clutch pushed down, open the bleeding valve, close it, build pressure, push clutch down, open screw, close, then lift clutch, build pressure, etc. i just pumped the fluid out without closing the valve... i'll try it tomorow and see
AAWWW COME ON MAN!@#!@# ...j/k

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srpowered240sx
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hungryjoseph wrote: i just pumped the fluid out without closing the valve... i'll try it tomorow and see
i think you just solved your own problem. just pushing up and down effectively did nothing. go bleed, go drift.

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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alright, can someone tell me how to bleed the clutch, the right way? i tried for like 30 minutes and it didn't work....

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kamikazedrift
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Car: 240sr20det, s13

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you should replace your slave and your master. I had the same problem and I changed both just to be safe. Sometimes the part might be shot to. I had to buy to slaves till one actually worked. They sold me a bum part from kraigen but the took it back no problem.Good luck.

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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kamikazedrift wrote:you should replace your slave and your master. I had the same problem and I changed both just to be safe. Sometimes the part might be shot to. I had to buy to slaves till one actually worked. They sold me a bum part from kraigen but the took it back no problem.Good luck.
i replaced the slave and i don't think i need to replace my master. I have pressure, it just goes away after i depress it 20 or some times. then i lift it and it gains pressure.

funigui
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Car: I HAD a 1991 240sx coupe. woked NA motor. ran like 14.5 ish. blew it up @ 140 after an ECU reflash.

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do you still have the dapner? if u do pull it

datsun2401972
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Car: 90 Nissan 240SX XE coupe

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With two people, one at the bleeder screw, one at the pedal.

Pump the pedal a few times or until you feel resistance build up in the pedal. Hold the pedal down to the floor on the last pump.

Tell the bleeder screw man to open the valve and watch for air coming out of the bleeder. Generally air in the line will spray out violently instead of stream out like straight brake fluid will. Before the stream looses too much flow, close the bleed screw to keep air from possible entering the system at the bleed screw.

And then, repeat, repeat, repeat, etc until you feel a consistant feel in the pedal.

Also keep the resevoir as close to full as possible at all times. In other words check between your bleeding sessions that your resevoir is relatively full. And if you do it right you really should only have to top the resevoir off.

If the clutch dampner has a bleed screw you'll want to bleed that one before the slave cylinder. I didn't bother with mine and I just bled my slave cylinder. But if you have air in your dampner you'll need to do that.

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hungryjoseph
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datsun2401972 wrote:With two people, one at the bleeder screw, one at the pedal.

Pump the pedal a few times or until you feel resistance build up in the pedal. Hold the pedal down to the floor on the last pump.

Tell the bleeder screw man to open the valve and watch for air coming out of the bleeder. Generally air in the line will spray out violently instead of stream out like straight brake fluid will. Before the stream looses too much flow, close the bleed screw to keep air from possible entering the system at the bleed screw.

And then, repeat, repeat, repeat, etc until you feel a consistant feel in the pedal.

Also keep the resevoir as close to full as possible at all times. In other words check between your bleeding sessions that your resevoir is relatively full. And if you do it right you really should only have to top the resevoir off.

If the clutch dampner has a bleed screw you'll want to bleed that one before the slave cylinder. I didn't bother with mine and I just bled my slave cylinder. But if you have air in your dampner you'll need to do that.
whats the dampener for anyway

datsun2401972
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Car: 90 Nissan 240SX XE coupe

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iono...probably to filter out any vibrations that would get to the pedal otherwise?

Or maybe it reduces the "shock" load, so to speak, that the clutch and pressure plate may experience?

180fan
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hungryjoseph wrote:
whats the dampener for anyway
The damper loop is for the trash.

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Scuffed_ChukiCoupe
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^^ exactly where mine went.

LayNLow240
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Like I said before, if you still have the damper on, take that crap off. All it does is trap air in the system and make it a ***** to bleed. Do this and you can bleed your system in under 5 minutes if you don't screw around. Whoever is working the pedal might want to use their hand. It doesn't take as long when you have to manually pull it back up with your foot.

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hungryjoseph
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Car: s13 with rb25 and s13 with s14sr20

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is there a write up around here on how to remove the damper

edit found it
Modified by hungryjoseph at 4:01 PM 8/28/2007


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