i need confirmation on an idea...

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busteds13
Posts: 276
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:57 pm
Car: 92 S13 Hatch CA18DET, BOOST!!

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My dropping resistor is dead, im sure, i recentley lost injector #4 . at firs i thought i lost coil #4 but i swapped amongst cylinders, plugs too, and #4 was still dead, then i swapped ignitors, so now i have an extra one. Anyways, i pulled injector plug #4 and got no change in idle, so i pluged injector plug #3 into Injector #4 and it clicked all sortsa healthy, so i swapped an old Dropping resistor i had with the swao when it arrived originally that im sure had tested bad, im not sure, the same injector is still dead. Immona doublecheck both Droping resistors to be sure, but is it common for #4 do poop itself?

the idea is this, i want to eliminate the droping resistor entierly as a singular unit, and just harwire each injector with its own 5 ohm 50 watt resistor from rat shack, so when they inevitably fry themselves ittl be easier to change, rather than go look for a part that seemingly no longer exists anywhere? also for redundancy and simplicity? i feel like ive heard of someone doing this before, but im not sure.


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Frankenfourty
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Car: 1989 240sx CA18DET

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Yes people have done this before. As long as the injectors are getting the right resistance they don't care where that resistance is coming from. IMO its a good idea cost wise. I would rather replace one resistor than spend $60 on a new resistor box every time it fails.

busteds13
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch CA18DET, BOOST!!

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Ok then to confirm does anyone know the exact specs for the resistors, i saw somoen said that it was a 5 ohm 50 watt resistor. can anyone confirm this for sure?

busteds13
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Car: 92 S13 Hatch CA18DET, BOOST!!

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ok , so its not my resistor, i spliced the two resistors i had lying around together to make one good one (im not sure this is the right way to do things, electronically speaking) but #4 injector still refuses to click. and the ECU gives me code 55, even though it sounds like a WRX.Whats the likleyness of the harness being shot? all the other injectors fire just fine, and i cleaned off all connections that i could, i dont wanna admit that its my ECU, is there anyway to sheat my way around this mess?

oh and i took and old resistor i had and tested injector #3 to see if it fires, then i cut it and spliced it in to the newer resistor i had in place of injector #4 and left all the others alone, and it still sounded like a WRX. this is annoying, it just pooed itself one monday morning and that was the end of that.

Any suggestion might help please.

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mbmbmb23
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busteds13 wrote:
Any suggestion might help please.
Was your harness ever hacked into for an SAFC or something?

busteds13
Posts: 276
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:57 pm
Car: 92 S13 Hatch CA18DET, BOOST!!

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yes, bu one does not hack in to the injector signal wires, only the MAFS, and i still use an SAFC, to read things like voltage, trottle position, and as a backup knock detection device. i never could get the MAFS signal interruption to work correctly, so i dont even bother. you think my SAFC fried my ecu?, or is in process. Ive been checking self diagnostic coded this whole time, after every new attempt, and its been giv ing me the all clear(55) this whole time. Mebbe the ECU ate injector #4 output signal, and then forgot to tell me about it?

Imonna keep messing with it a bit, see what i manage today. Its not like this happened before, ever, at all, ive always had good injectors, and they fire, just #4 apparenley gets no signal for some reason.

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ca18detgabby
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stupid question?

have you checked compression on cyclindar 4? beyond that, you are looking at harness issues.

PS http://www.amsperformance.com/....html

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float_6969
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I'd check the wiring on the 4th cylinder. 1st - See if you have 12v+ on the solid blue wire going into the 4th injector. 2nd - See if you have 12v+ on the solid blue wire coming out of the dropping resistor.

If you don't have power on the blue wire coming out of the dropping resistor, then the dropping resistor is bad. If you have power at the dropping resistor, but not at the injector plug, then you have a wiring problem between the dropping resistor and the injector plug. If you've got power both places, check continuity between the blue w/black stripe wire on the injector plug and pin 112 (blue w/black stripe) at the ECU. There should be basically no resistance. If that checks out OK, then remove the plug from the injector, and check the resistance through the injector. It should be around 2-3Ohms. If it's less or more than that, the injector is bad. If it's in that range, the ECU circuit for that injector is bad.

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float_6969
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All of that info I just typed up is in the FSM BTW

busteds13
Posts: 276
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:57 pm
Car: 92 S13 Hatch CA18DET, BOOST!!

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Thanx, and ive had the FSM open for awhile here

well see what comes up.

no i haven't done a comp test yet, but theres no oil in my water, no water in my oil, and no gas in either, everything, smells, looks, and tastes correct, i for sure know that #4 injector is not firing, it doesent click like it should, when plug from #3 injector is plugged in to Injector #4 it clicks all sortsa healthy, so i have a problem someplace electronically, since i got no change with my ghetto rig dropping resistor fixi think i have a problem elswhere, ill keep looking.thanx, float for the idiots guide, its extremley helpful, and your imput is always welkome helpfull or otherwise

busteds13
Posts: 276
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 2:57 pm
Car: 92 S13 Hatch CA18DET, BOOST!!

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so iwent trough the check ups, and everything seems to check out just fine, so it seems that i need a new ECU.Anyone gots one hangign around that they wanna send me?

please and thank you.


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