I need a little help...

[a240sxpinoy]

ok so i got my ka-t runnin. i idled it twice for about less than 5 minutes.

after idling it the second time, i checked the oil to see if there was any fuel in the oil. it ended up smelling like fuel. so i checked the injectors (370cc), and spark plugs. two of the injectors had broken plastic caps at the bottom (where the fuel squirts out) and all the spark plugs (brand new BKR7e) were black.

i bought an aem wideband today, and got used injectors to replace the two that had broken caps. going to change the o-rings on both used injectors just like the other ones.

now here are my questions

1.) can the broken caps on the two injectors be the cause of the car running rich? (nissan dealership said that those caps are part of the injector)

2.) if i get an adjustable FPR can i lean/rich the car out by adjusting the fuel pressure? or is it the ecu (emance) that i need to get fixed/retune?

3.) i know i need to change the oil cause its mixed with fuel, but is there a possibility i can drain the oil (bearly used, only idled twice) and let it sit so the fuel in the oil can evaporate?

4.) i am running the wastegate line on the stock sr20det smic piping nipple. its part of the cold piping after the intercooler. i know the stock sr20dets use this nipple for the wastegate. so i was wondering if i can use it for the same reason.

thanks! i need to finish before school starts. dont want to stress but at the same time rush things.

[StockSucks]

ok so i got my ka-t runnin. i idled it twice for about less than 5 minutes.

after idling it the second time, i checked the oil to see if there was any fuel in the oil. it ended up smelling like fuel. so i checked the injectors (370cc), and spark plugs. two of the injectors had broken plastic caps at the bottom (where the fuel squirts out) and all the spark plugs (brand new BKR7e) were black.

i bought an aem wideband today, and got used injectors to replace the two that had broken caps. going to change the o-rings on both used injectors just like the other ones.

now here are my questions

1.) can the broken caps on the two injectors be the cause of the car running rich? (nissan dealership said that those caps are part of the injector)

2.) if i get an adjustable FPR can i lean/rich the car out by adjusting the fuel pressure? or is it the ecu (emance) that i need to get fixed/retune?

3.) i know i need to change the oil cause its mixed with fuel, but is there a possibility i can drain the oil (bearly used, only idled twice) and let it sit so the fuel in the oil can evaporate?

4.) i am running the wastegate line on the stock sr20det smic piping nipple. its part of the cold piping after the intercooler. i know the stock sr20dets use this nipple for the wastegate. so i was wondering if i can use it for the same reason.

thanks! i need to finish before school starts. dont want to stress but at the same time rush things.

1. No i dont think that is the reson for the rich afr, more than likely its the tune.2. you can get a fpr and adjust it but there is really no need to adjust from stock for low levels of boost unless your trying to get more out of your injectors3. Just get new oil lol4. Yes you can use that if it is a boost source it will work

[WDRacing]

I've run injectors with the pintle caps totally removed. That is if you're referring to the platic cap.

When modifying your car in any way that will require tuning, such as a turbo addition, you should always use cheap oil. Cause you're going to be changing it.

I ALWAYS use a vacuum source on the intake manifold itself...ALWAYS.

Install the wideband, post your AFR's so we can further troubleshoot this.

WD

[480sx]

4 - Tial actually tells you to get your WG source from the coldpipe right before the TB. Having it sourced from the IM sometimes causes spikes. The air has to pass through the TB and it opening/closing will cause delayed or false boost level readings.

[WDRacing]

RIIIIGHT...well do what you want. I'm going to do it exactly like I have been for the last 12 years. I guess so long as the vac source is on the cold side of the piping you'll be ok. Just don't use the hot pipe or the compressor of the turbo.

You want the wastegate top open after the fmic has caused a pressure drop, or it will be opening early.

[neverlift]

I run my wg line off the turbo, seems to be more responsive, when I had the line just before the tb it would spike

[WDRacing]

The reason I say not to use the compressor is because your boost gauge is reading from the mani. If the wastegate is getting it's signal from the compressor you're loosing a couple psi of pressure drop because of the fmic.

[neverlift]

The reason I say not to use the compressor is because your boost gauge is reading from the mani. If the wastegate is getting it's signal from the compressor you're loosing a couple psi of pressure drop because of the fmic.

Car was faster, with the w/g line at the bov for sure.

another mis informed me Fix that when the new turbo gets purchased

[a240sxpinoy]

ok so i got my aem wideband installed.

i teed a fuel pressure gauge right on top of the fuel filter, but it was weird it was reading 0 while the key was on.

the car wouldnt start with the fuel pressure gauge installed. so i took it off and the car started after the second try. (but cold start, had to pump the gas to start the car)

so the wideband read 10 at idle. car also had a rough idle which was weird cause when i ran open dp it was fine.

the last thing im thinking is the stock fpr. it might also explain the reason why when the key was on the on position i had no pressure?

im picking up a adjustable fpr tomorrow.

[480sx]

Somethings not right.. Your car wouldnt start with 0 fuel pressure and the fuel pressure gage would in no way affect your car from starting or not. Fuel would be spraying everywhere if you did something wrong with the install when you primed the pump.

With AFR's in the 10's you should be spitting unburnt fuel out of the exhaust, in the form of black liquid. Smell your exhaust and see if it reeks like gas.

Adjustable FPR is a good move anyway, might as well try it to see what happens. Still doesnt really make a whole lot of sense.

[a240sxpinoy]

ya i am spitting out black liquid from the exhaust. also white smoke.

ya im not really sure why it was reading 0.

im going to try to get a adjustable FPR today but if not i guess i have to wait til monday.

[a240sxpinoy]

ok so i installed a MEGAN FPR.

the gauge still reads 0 while the key is on the on position.

im pretty sure i installed the FPR right. at the end of the fuel rail where the stock fpr, i installed an adaptor which goes to the inlet part of the FPR, and the outlet to the other hose.

also when i took the fuel rail out while the injectors were still in the fuel rail, i squeezed one of the fuel hoses, and gas squirted out of one injector through the 4 little pin holes, not the sides of that injector.

could that injector be stuck open? if so can that cause the fuel pressure gauge on the FPR to read 0?

any help is greatly appreciated!!

and if there is any local people email me your number!

[WDRacing]

Injectors are powered open, so if they were disconnected and gas came out = stuck open. Having an injector stuck open is the same thing as having that cylinder at 100 duty cycle without even having the motor running.

Don't turn the motor over anymore until this is sorted out. You're washing the oil from the cylinder walls which will become scored and scratched and you're ruining your oil and plugs.

WD

[Spinn3r]

I'm having similar problem with my car :-/ i smell gas out of the exhaust and blue smoke, sparks are black, not wet im thinking the car is running way too rich, I can install WB, I did comp test on each cylinder and #1 is at 150 #2 at 90 #3 160 and same on #4 cyl.

[a240sxpinoy]

ok so i got the whole thing sorted out.

one injector was stuck open so i changed that one out.another injector was leaking from the sides, so i took that injector out and lubed it up with some vasoline, put it back on since they were new o-rings and it solved the problem.

ok so afr at idle is low 11 and sometimes goes up to 13.

i drove it around the block and while just cruising the afr is between 12 and 13s. i did try a WOT and the afr was still around 12-13.

also, when i let go the gas while on gear the afr gauge goes lean and stays lean until i press the gas.

also when i shift to neutral the afr also goes lean, blinks, and then goes back to 13-14 afr. is that normal?

are these safe afr's? i also check the oil for the smell of gas but i cant seem to smell any?

thanks for everyones help. ill post pics asap.

[DevilMB3017]

In sections....

ok so i got the whole thing sorted out.

one injector was stuck open so i changed that one out.another injector was leaking from the sides, so i took that injector out and lubed it up with some vasoline, put it back on since they were new o-rings and it solved the problem.

Good! Congrats on fixing what seems to be the biggest problem you had.

ok so afr at idle is low 11 and sometimes goes up to 13.

i drove it around the block and while just cruising the afr is between 12 and 13s. i did try a WOT and the afr was still around 12-13.

Your cruising AFR should be leaner then that. Keep in mind 14.7 is "perfect" at idle and cruise, but a little leaner is good too. WOT it should be between 12-13. Sounds like you still have an idle problem. What are you using for fuel/timing control?

also, when i let go the gas while on gear the afr gauge goes lean and stays lean until i press the gas.

Yup. AFAIK all Nissans will do this as a gas saving/emissions thing.

also when i shift to neutral the afr also goes lean, blinks, and then goes back to 13-14 afr. is that normal?

This is the closest thing to normal you've said You want your idle/neutral AFR to be around 14.7

are these safe afr's? i also check the oil for the smell of gas but i cant seem to smell any?

thanks for everyones help. ill post pics asap.

Sounds like your on the right track then.

[a240sxpinoy]

Your cruising AFR should be leaner then that. Keep in mind 14.7 is "perfect" at idle and cruise, but a little leaner is good too. WOT it should be between 12-13. Sounds like you still have an idle problem. What are you using for fuel/timing control?

i have emance tune, im thinking my timing might be a little off so im going to check on that. its suppose to be at 20 right?

Sounds like your on the right track then.

thanks! its finally done after 2 years of planning (cause im a student and dont have a lot of money ) and reading and then 3 weeks of trouble shooting! i'm uploading pictures tonight.

[DevilMB3017]

20* BDTC is stock.

[fiznat]

Leaner is not better, especially at WOT on a turbocharged engine.

Running slightly rich helps stave off detonation. Better slightly rich and safe than lean and broken down.

[a240sxpinoy]

ok so timing is set at 20* BDTC.

on idle afrs are still between 11.1 to 12.9.while cruising the afrs are also between 12-13

i just ordered a egr plug because i havent plugged the egr yet.

would that make the car run rich on idle? or would i need to change the distributor cap and spark plug wires?

[DevilMB3017]

Lots of things....

Boost leaks, vacuum or intake leaks are probably the most likely along with the ECU tune.

Throttle position sensor, coolant temp sensor, and knock sensor problems are less likely, but possible as well.

[a240sxpinoy]

everything seems to be ok, but still running rich.

i bumped up the idle to 900-950 and it leaned it i out a little bit.

now while in idle its around 12.5-15, it is always fluctuating.

i checked the spark plugs while changing the oil after 100 miles because the oil was starting to smell like gas. the spark plugs were working but had a little hint of yellow?

i cleaned it off with a copper brush and im going to check again after running around with the new afrs while in idle.

cruising afrs also leaned out a little bit and doesnt go below 12.5

i checked the ecu for codes but it wasnt throwing any codes. i am going to be changing the o2 sensor anyways this weekend and hopefully it will lean out a little more.