silviamirage wrote:hmmm...how much could I do to an s13 with 10k...
1) s13 that, well, runs...around 1200 usd2) sr20det from afterdark.com...2200 usd3) downpipe, greddy...around 200 usd4) catback, greddy, apexi, etc...around 500usd5) cold air intake...around 200usd6) silvia conversion (parts only) Afterdark.com...1000usd7) front under kit, bomex (*****in', I would say)...190usd8) side skirt kit, bomex...345usd9) wing, bomex...390usd10) stage 2 clutch, clutch masters...around 350usd11) tires, yokos, pick your choice...600 12) wheels, konig blatants...600usdtotal:7775usd
ok, I know that lacks the prices for the installation, but most of those can be easily done by most tuners, and probably a few things like blow off valves, etc..., but this is just to make a point. Why would anyone pay 10k for a 240 with an sr20 that has 66kmiles when they could pay the same amount or less for one with a silvia conversion and some aero parts from bomex?
great so for your 8500k (didnt see many shipping cost involved in that price so i added them...), you just got yourself a car you cant drive since it has no suspension, traction, or tuning, engine or fuel management...have fun blowing that piece up
i love how everyone makes these estimates on cars, its almost comical...come speak to us when your done, and let us know what you ended up paying : )
and why would anyone want to put konig blatants on their ride? lol....
anyway, here is a good formula from sr20hybrids...i think its a good jumping off point for people researching, planning swaps....
"There are many different routes you can take when modifying your S13/14, and although there is no one "right" path to follow, it wouldn't hurt to take a gander at the following formula and use it as a guideline to help you build up your own car. The information presented here is by no means meant to be considered gospel, as most of it is based on my own personal opinion (with my personal favorite brand names for specific items appearing in the parentheses), but it can act as a guide to help you make your S13/14 look, ride, drive, handle, and run better. (The engine and drivetrain portions are SR20DET-specific, but the other sections can be applied to any S13/14.)
ENGINEThe Basics: If you're ready to swap out your old, tired KA24 for an SR20DET, then you'll be taking the first step towards building a formula S13/14. And unless you have a whole front cut that includes all the factory OEM Silvia components, your SR20 swap will also end up necessitating an aftermarket air filter, downpipe, and in most cases, an upgraded intercooler with piping. So right off the bat, you will be pushing out a good deal more hp than the stock Silvia. A high-quality blow off valve should be your next mod. Add a high-flow catalytic converter or test pipe (your stock cat will most likely start sludging up soon after your swap) and a well-built cat-back exhaust to make sure you aren't choking the SR20DET off with the stock exhaust system. Throw into the mix a simple boost controller to turn the boost level up a tad to about 10psi for daily driving, and 14psi overboost for those occassions when a little more juice is needed, and you will be looking at anywhere from 220-240hp+ at the wheels. To be able to safely sustain these power levels, you will HAVE to upgrade your fuel pump. People will tell you that it's safe to run lower boost levels on your stock fuel pump, and although that is true, the risk involved is not worth it. Your stock pump will be old and tired, the original filter will be clogged up, and the pump install won't take any more than one hour to complete. If you perform an SR20DET swap and don't upgrade your fuel pump, then you are just asking for trouble.
The Breakdown: Perform a basic SR20DET swap utilizing an aftermarket air filter, intercooler kit with piping (Greddy, Blitz, etc.), and downpipe (Greddy, etc.). Don't forget the blow off valve (Greddy, HKS, Tial, etc.) to protect the turbo from compressor surge. Replace the stock cat with a high-flow aftermarket unit or a test pipe, and throw the stock, anemic exhaust out in favor of a high-quality 3" or larger cat-back exhaust system (APEXi, Greddy, HKS, etc.). Get a boost controller of some sort (Greddy, HKS, Blitz, etc.) to up the boost a bit. A new upgraded fuel pump (Walbro, etc.) is also a must-have.
The Cost: about $4800-5200 for everything, assuming you perform your own labor DRIVETRAINThe Basics: In most cases, the stock clutch that comes with your SR20DET swap should be in decent enough condition to be reused for a period of no more than several months to a year. If the stock pressure plate and clutch disc on your SR20DET look to be in good condition, then it is ok to retain them if you're in a financial pinch. But if you do have the extra money to cover the cost of a new clutch assembly, then now would be the best time to get get it, before the motor goes in. The only other part of the drivetrain that should be upgraded in a formula S13/14 would be the rear end. Factory VLSDs were a pretty rare option on these cars, so if you can find a direct replacement VLSD or a Z32 or J30 VLSD to swap in, that would be the cheapest and simplest route to take. But if you're willing to spend a little more, there are a number of aftermarket units that will work very well. An LSD isn't a necessity in a formula build up though, unless you will be driving the car in high-performance situations often (mountain racing, drifting, drag racing, road racing, autocrossing, etc.). The Breakdown: If the stock clutch is good, reuse it. But if it looks bad, or you have the money, get a new clutch assembly (ACT, etc.). An LSD rear end (OEM Nissan, Cusco, Kaaz, Quaife, etc.) isn't a real must-have, but would be a good item to add eventually.
The Cost: about $320-350 for a new clutch assembly; anywhere from $200-900 for an LSD rear end BODYWORKThe Basics: There are just too many options available to list as far as the bodywork is concerned. A lot of this relies heavily on your personal preference also; those who want to show off their car a bit more might want to go with a full aftermarket body kit, while those who prefer a more understated look might opt for just a simple lip spoiler. Another option for S13 folks is the JDM Silvia front end conversion. This will bolt right on, and will add a new dimension to your car without having to rely on aftermarket body components. The sky's the limit in this category. The Breakdown: Go with whatever you think will look best on your car.
The Cost: only you can determine how much your preferences will cost you SUSPENSIONThe Basics: S13/14 owners are blessed with strong aftermarket support, especially in the suspension department. Unfortunately, not all those options are available in the United States. A formula suspension build up would call for replacing the struts and springs and sway bars. For the struts, you can either go with a simple replacement unit with a separate aftermarket lowering spring, or you can run a fully-integrated coilover suspension setup. Money and the proposed use of your vehicle should determine which of the two choices you decide on. A full coilover suspension will definitely cost you a bit more money, but it will also outperform a "spring and shock" setup. If your car will seldom see much track time, and will be driven on the street a great deal, then the latter might be your best bet as it will save you money, yet provide you with more than adequate performance. But if you plan on driving your car very hard, and will take it to the track or strip every so often, then it will be worth saving up for the coilovers. The Breakdown: Decide whether you want to go with "springs (Ground Control, GREX, Eibach, etc.) and shocks (KYB AGX, Tokico HTS, etc.)" or with full coilovers (Ohlins, Zeal, Cusco, Tein, etc.). Sway bars (Suspension Techniques, Whiteline, etc.) can then be added if you feel that the car still has too much roll in the corners.
The Cost: about $680-700 for springs and shocks, or $1000-2500 for coilovers depending on what level of coilovers you get; sway bars can be had for no more than $300-340 front and rear BRAKESThe Basics: The brake upgrade for the formula S13/14 would be the Z32 brake conversion. This consists of swapping the Z32 300ZX front brake calipers and rotors on to the S13/14 chassis. It's a bolt-on affair, and for the price, will provide a huge gain in braking performance. To make sure the rest of the brake system is up to par, it is recommended that you change in new rotors and pads at all four corners, and bleed your brake fluid throughout the whole system. Not only will all this increase your braking potential tenfold, but it's also considered good general maintenance. The Breakdown: Z32 front brake swap (OEM Nissan) with resurfaced original (OEM Nissan), or new aftermarket brake rotors (Brembo, Powerstop, etc.). Add the necessary stainless brake lines (PDM Racing, Goodridge, etc.) front and rear. Resurface or run new rotors in the rear also (same as front rotors), and then replace all your brake pads with new units (OEM Nissan, Axxis, EBC, etc.). Flush your dirty old brake fluid and add in new DOT4 fluid (Motul, Ford, etc.).
The Cost: about $800-900 at most for everything front to rear WHEELSThe Basics: This is also another area that's subject to the individual's personal taste much like the bodywork. I would recommend getting a wheel that you would consider nice. Do not settle for something that's only second best. If need be, just drive around with stock alloys (to clear the Z32 brake conversion) until you can afford wheels that you can truly be proud of. You do not want to buy wheels that you don't really like, because you will have to look at them every time you view your car. And the wheels will be the first thing people notice when they see your car; keep that in mind. This is where you might also want to consider performing a 5-lug swap on an S13. The only real advantage to the 5-lug conversion is to allow you a greater number of wide, performance-oriented wheels to choose from. But if the wheel you want is available in 4 lugs, there is no use for the 5-lug swap at all. The Breakdown: Get some wheels (Work, Stern, Volk Racing, SSR, Fikse, etc.), mount some tires on them (Bridgestone, Pirelli, Yokohama, Michellin, Dunlop, etc.), and bolt them in place! If a 5-lug conversion is needed, then you will have to acquire all the parts for that.
The Cost: wheels can run anywhere from $0 to $4000+ with tires; 5-lug conversion is about another $400-500, not including labor INTERIORThe Basics: If your interior is in good condition and has served you well, there's no real need to do much to it for a formula buildup. A boost gauge to complement the SR20DET would be a definite must-have. Any other upgrade to the interior is up to your discretion, and budget. Other interior items you might want to consider changing are the steering wheel, seats, and stereo system. This is where you'll spend your time when driving the car, so build it up to suit you needs and tastes. The Breakdown: Don't forget the boost gauge (Defi, Greddy, HKS, APEXi, etc.) to keep tabs on your SR20DET. Steering wheel (MOMO, Sparco, Nardi, etc.), seats (MOMO, Sparco, Corbeau, etc.), and stereo upgrades would be nice too.
The Cost: a high-quality boost gauge can run you anywhere from $60-200; steering wheels and seats will set you back about $120-220 and $300-1000/pair, respectively "