I'm overhauling my KA24DE and I have some questions!

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Dr.Noisewater
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:25 pm
Car: 93 240sx KA24DE

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I'm rebuilding a 93 Nissan 240sx KA24DE. I'm replacing most of the internal and external components and I have run into a pickle! I plan on turbocharging my stock KA with low boost when I get the cash after this rebuild, however I would like to know if anyone has any pointers as what has to change since I already have the motor apart? I would love if I could be pointed in the right direction as where to find a fairly priced crankshaft. I have many more questions if anyone has the time. Thanks so so so much.


Dr.Noisewater
Posts: 81
Joined: Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:25 pm
Car: 93 240sx KA24DE

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My main question is what part or parts are essential for a low boost roughly stock KA-T??? Like would a stock crank be alright? Or do my camshafts need to bulk up? Cometic Headgasket??? I dont have unlimited funds and I need to make sure I spend my cash when it will help me the most!

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Rev_D21
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Wrong forum, moved to KA-T.

kpariaug
Posts: 62
Joined: Fri May 04, 2007 7:33 pm
Car: 1993 240sx Fastback SE

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use all OEM Nissan parts. bearings, rings, headgasket or u can use felpro for like $20. use ur original rods and pistons theyre good for low boost, dont worry about the head

CTS13
Posts: 464
Joined: Sun Nov 29, 2009 4:42 am
Car: 91 240sx, 02 Camry, 09 Gsxr600

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Ok no, thats not a great plan. OEM pistons and rods are wrong choice.

IF you say you have unlimited funds, then i suggest cp pistons and eagle rods, acl bearings and arp head studs. This totale will equal less than 1300 dollars brand new. Then machine shop to bore hone and redeck your block which will cost about 300 max and this can handle 450whp +. OEM rods cant even handle me standing on it. If yoru gonna spend money, do it right.

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jeff420
Posts: 848
Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 9:46 pm
Car: too many to fathom

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CTS13 wrote:Ok no, thats not a great plan. OEM pistons and rods are wrong choice.

IF you say you have unlimited funds, then i suggest cp pistons and eagle rods, acl bearings and arp head studs. This totale will equal less than 1300 dollars brand new. Then machine shop to bore hone and redeck your block which will cost about 300 max and this can handle 450whp +. OEM rods cant even handle me standing on it. If yoru gonna spend money, do it right.
he never said that. he said he DOESNT have unlimited funds. if your looking for 300hp or lower, then stock will be fine. if your looking for more than 300 id go forged

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WDRacing
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Joined: Mon Nov 25, 2002 2:00 am
Car: 95 240SX, 99 BMW 540i, 01 Chevy Express, 14 Ford Escape
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OEM parts don't fail until you're in the 400's. It's been dyno proven many times, in fact if it's tuned well and the motor is in good shape, the rods don't even bend until over 450.

Forged internals provide a safety net. My recommendation is to go forged if you are looking for more then 350whp. If you're not looking for big power, then there is no real need to upgrade to forged goodies. However, you have the motor apart already. I'd upgrade now, because..well why not. Eagle Rods are cheap and good and any forged piston will work just fine. Basically whatever the best deal is at the time is the way to go. Just get the entire rotating assembly balanced and you'll be good to go.

Once your motor is built, octane will be your only real limiting hurdle left.

Welcome to KAT

WD

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GTR PrYdE
Posts: 1184
Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2005 6:02 pm
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX, 2003 Evolution VIII

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What I did, for my "Under 350whp build"

*Check Compression First!!! Mine was 150psi across all 4*

-New OEM oil pump kit from AMS-New Timing Chain Kit OSK from FRsport-New Fel-Pro headgasket-New odds and ends like spark plugs, sensors that looked damaged

That's about all you need to boost reliably on the stock bottom end... Good luck!


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