I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

[rzerob]

hazukijitsu, alfsnissan is more than likely correct I came across this problem myself and it was the red gear on the speed sensor, just order one from your local nissan shop mine cost like $15. After I switched it out I have had no futher issues.

[SleepyHB]

Hello all, first post and have a question.

I'm trying to purchase some lug nuts, from here http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims/rota-list.html(at the bottom of the page)I can't/ not sure how to decide if I should get Gorilla Black or Muteki SR35 or 48, I understand that 48 are longer and I see some for sell on Ebay they also comes with special lock key? But is there any purpose on having the longer lug nuts? The price for 48 and 35 are a bit more so I want to make sure I'm purchasing the right lug nuts, thanks =]

btw if u can please post some pic of 48 size I can't seem to find pic of them on cars at all.

[mtlotslove]

Hey everyone! Some bastard broke into my car last night and broke the pass side window. I'm trying to find a new one and my question is...Are the windows different between a s13 coupe and hatchback?

[BenKenobi]

Hi everyone! I'm (obviously) new here.. I've had my 89 for almost 3 months now and have been battling gas mileage that is only getting worse (see banner in sig for link to profile)

I want to try cleaning my EGR valve, but don't even know where to start IRT getting to it to remove it. I did some searching but couldn't find what I was looking for.. Found the FSM, but it doesn't really tell me what I need to know either ...

Any help would be great!

Thanks!

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Hello all, first post and have a question.

I'm trying to purchase some lug nuts, from here http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims/rota-list.html(at the bottom of the page)I can't/ not sure how to decide if I should get Gorilla Black or Muteki SR35 or 48, I understand that 48 are longer and I see some for sell on Ebay they also comes with special lock key? But is there any purpose on having the longer lug nuts? The price for 48 and 35 are a bit more so I want to make sure I'm purchasing the right lug nuts, thanks =]

btw if u can please post some pic of 48 size I can't seem to find pic of them on cars at all.

I don't know why you would want open ended lug nuts, so I'd go with the gorilla style. Keep your wheel studs rust free.

Hey everyone! Some bastard broke into my car last night and broke the pass side window. I'm trying to find a new one and my question is...Are the windows different between a s13 coupe and hatchback?

As long as you are talking about the window in the door, then no, they are the same.

Hi everyone! I'm (obviously) new here.. I've had my 89 for almost 3 months now and have been battling gas mileage that is only getting worse (see banner in sig for link to profile)

I want to try cleaning my EGR valve, but don't even know where to start IRT getting to it to remove it. I did some searching but couldn't find what I was looking for.. Found the FSM, but it doesn't really tell me what I need to know either ...

Any help would be great!

Thanks!

You might want to start out just trying to seafoam your car. Removing the EGR is a PITA. I ripped mine out, and turbo'd my car, and I get better mileage than you. You also might want to check your O2 sensor, and coolant temp sensor.

[SleepyHB]

Ahh. that makes sense, thanks!

[BenKenobi]

You might want to start out just trying to seafoam your car. Removing the EGR is a PITA. I ripped mine out, and turbo'd my car, and I get better mileage than you. You also might want to check your O2 sensor, and coolant temp sensor.

O2 sensor has been replaced, no improvement

I'll check the cooland temp sensor, thanks.

I've run Seafoam in the fuel, but haven't gained the testicular fortitude to try it in a vacuum line... I'll do some searching, but from the limited reading I've done, it should go in via the brake booster line, but not through some sort of check valve, correct?

I'm also kinda concerned about the Seafoam cleaning any "false seals" that may have accumulated over the last 208k miles (I've only had it for almost 5k miles)
Modified by BenKenobi at 12:04 AM 12/29/2008

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah, and if at all possible, you are supposed to change your spark plugs and O2 sensor AFTER you do the seafoam. If you have the old O2 sensor, you should put it in before seafoaming.

[BenKenobi]

stupid multimeter battery died (it doesn't have an auto-off feature) .. So I at least took and cleaned out the connector.. We'll see what that does.

*edit* Got a battery for the multimeter ... Tested the resistance before starting this morning and it was a little high, but it was also cooler than what the FSM says for temperature versus ohms ... Warmed it up a bit and the resistance dropped to about .30K (spec is something like .21K @ 176F) ... Drove in to work and tested when I got here.. Reading .21K, but I don't know 100% what the coolant temp is.. I'd imagine somewhere around 176F ...

I was also able to reach up under the EGR valve and push the diaphragm up. Engine stumbled a bit, so I'd imagine that would mean it's working ..

*another edit* I'm also fairly certain I have a vacuum leak somewhere.. Every once in a while the RPMs will go up higher than they should and pumping the brake repeatedly will make it go back down. */edit* Should I just start a separate thread?

Modified by BenKenobi at 10:12 AM 12/29/2008
Modified by BenKenobi at 12:11 PM 12/29/2008

[PapaSmurf2k3]

yeah, you should probably start another thread. It sounds like you might have multiple problems here. The coolant temp sensor sounds ok.

[2ndnissan]

Do brake and clutch pedals from an s-13 5 spd fit an s-14?I asked in the general room and tech but no answers there so far ..and it is sort of a newbie question.....

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I am almost 100% sure that they do.

[2ndnissan]

Thanks!I have a set on classifieds and buyer wanted to know if they'd fit an s-14. .I'm getting to know s-13's pretty well but don't know the s-14 mechanicals that well yet.

[megaderk]

is NICO pronounced nee-coor n-I-co?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

nee-co

Knee-Co

[lilbill0]

ok so ive been around nico for a while say 5-6 months, i just got my 240 about a month ago, its a 1990 hatch w/o abs if that helps, everything was great ran good for about 2 weeks, then one night i had to brake really hard to make a red light, the front right wheel had locked up, got the car towed, replaced brake pads which were burned to *ish, i put the rim back on to test for a free whell spin but it wouldnt budge, looked through the holes in the rim to see that the caliper was in contact with the rim, removed rim checked its inside gashes and paint removal all the way around, my question is how can the caliper touch the rim and how do i fix this so i can drive again?

[redtop91]

You can manually compress the caliper a bit to get it off the rotor (using an old pad and compressing with a C-Clamp works well). Then use the brakes (just sitting in your driveway) and see if it get's stuck again. If it does, repeat a couple of times to see if that get's it unstuck. If not I'd probably skip straight to replacing the calipers. Rebuilding works, but why not upgrade to Q calipers or Z calipers if it comes to that. Then you can entirely refresh the brake system too.

Edit: NM I saw the problem was the caliper contacting the rim not seized calipers. Most immediately I'd suppose the bracket for the caliper might be bent or warped. But I've never seen that so I dunno.

[lilbill0]

that could be a possibility i'll check for any signs of warping when it warms up, but if anyone else has some ideas please throw'em out there
Modified by lilbill0 at 12:14 PM 1/1/2009

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Maybe the calipers aren't tight on the knuckle? Either that or the wheel wasn't tight on the hub and shimmied far enough to contact the caliper. Either way, you should take a look at the knuckle, the bolts holding it in, the caliper, etc.

[dickie]

is NICO pronounced nee-coor n-I-co?

up north and in the midwest there is a tendency for users to say it like "nI-co," stressing the long I sound.

i asked them if they also pronounce the company name like "nI-san" instead of "nee-san," and they do not.

whatever floots your boot.

[Pyrokid]

Ok, so I replaced the clutch in my 240 a while back. I've been babying it (not shifting above 3,000 RPM like the manufacturer advised) and it seemed to be working fine. Well I went to get it emission and safety inspected it failed because the rear brakes were down to nothing. When I was replacing the rear brake pads I found out that both rear calipers were seized, so I replaced them. After the new calipers were on it was really hard to get into gear, almost impossible. So I put I jacked the rear up to see if I screwed up on the brakes, but the wheels spun freely with rear up. So I started up the car and deiced to see if it was any easier to get into gear. When I tried to shift it was just as hard and the wheels would start to spin the moment I moved the shifter. It's almost if the clutch isn't disengaging. I don't know if I need a new clutch or if I can adjust the clutch throw. Any ideas?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

First, make sure that you have fluid in your clutch master cylinder. If you had a slow leak or something, it could be getting some air in there and therefore not completely disengaging your clutch. If it does, you can adjust the throw. You'll have to disconnect the fork from the pedal (inside the car) via a cotter pin type thing, and then removing a pin. I think its possible to screw the fork out on the rod from there, but its a huge PITA, so I just unbolt the master from the firewall and adjust it once its out. 2 turns counterclockwise should be enough.

EDIT: also, you might have to adjust your pedal height. This is done with 1 set screw (14mm bolt IIRC) on the pedal housing. You should be able to see it once you crawl under there... its pretty straightforward.

[Pyrokid]

Ok, thanks papasmurf. I might just take the transmission down just to make sure the clutch is ok, cause I've heard horror stories about spec clutches(after I bought it of course), and the guy who did the emission testing didn't seem like he was being very gentle even though I asked him to be because it was brand new.

[comatoseculture]

how am i able to track down whats draining my battery? i've deduced that this is the problem and not a starter, because whenever i jump the car with my portable battery thingy, it starts off, albeit a little sluggish sounding. as soon as i connect the cables, my clock turns on and everything electrical goes on.

I'm not sure if maybe this problem was solved, but I had a similar issue, and it wasn't fun, so I decided to post this:

You need an ammeter to measure amperage (multimeters need be set to read amps)

1. Disconnect the negative cable from your battery

2. Connect your meter between the negative cable and battery post with the positive side on the detached cable, negative side touching the negative post of your battery.

3. Maintain contact between the points. IN OTHER WORDS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE CONTACT THE WHOLE TIME. I say this because it will take a few moments for your car to return to "rest mode". (connecting the meter will "wake up" some electronics, then return to "rest mode" shortly.)

4. Hopefully your reading is now basically nothing. 25-50 milliamps and up is too much power being drawn.

5. If you have a high reading, or if you know you have a drain already, the super scientific process of elimination begins. You need to start pulling fuses, while maintaining the connection. This usually entails a second person helping. When you pull the fuse from the culprit circuit the reading will jump down instantly.

I suggest logical choices first. IE: I had issues with interior lights, and when I got to the fuse marked "DOME" it jumped to nothing.

Realistically though, this just shows you which circuit has an issue. And does NOT show which component within that circuit is faulty.

To determine that you need to know what loads are on that circuit, determine if the issue is on the ground, or load side of things, etc. etc.

OR: pay someone to do so, or luck out with some electowhiz friend/s.

Best of Luck to all in doubt.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I'd check the things I said first... they are a hell of a lot easier than dropping the transmission.

[alfsnissan]

Ok, newb question. If full synthetic oil has been being run in a motor for about a year, is it ok to dump and move back to conventional? I've noticed a loose of power and fuel economy has declined. Thanks.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

some say no, some say yes. I say yes. Most vehicles really don't need full synthetic oil. Parts that are in/surrounded by oil are very rarely the reason a car breaks down/gets junked.

[alfsnissan]

OK, thanks. I thought that it would help but have noticed no positive change. Going back to conventional, save some money. (BTW, this question was for the jeep, I guess I should have mentioned that.) Thanks again.

[blacky_s13]

This is my first day on nico. I got sum 300zx rims and i wanna know as much as i can about the 5 lug conversion. Where do i start? sould i use oem parts? I do have some sick sportmax rims, but i always wanted 5 lug.

A pic of my rims

After paintsum hate it some love it..

my sportmax rims
Modified by blacky_s13 at 3:41 PM 1/3/2009

[AZ89two4Tsx]

Just scroll down some and you'll find it.

http://www.importnut.net/300zxbrakeswap.htm#5-lug