I'm New Here And I have A Simple Question Thread, (No Flaming Allowed)

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
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PapaSmurf2k3
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Drifting10 wrote:so i may be retarted but how do i go about replacing my headlight bulb in my 91 hatch? i tried the other day and couldnt figure out how to get it outta the glass
Well, when I did mine, it was a monumental pain in the ***. The lights that were in there did not have replaceable bulbs... you had to replace the whole housing and everything. In addition to that, all the screws on my car are rusted cos its from New England, so that made it even more of a pain in the ***. I replaced them with housings that have a hole in the back for easy bulb replacement.


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beachsidefl321
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Car: 1990 240sx Coupe

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PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Well, when I did mine, it was a monumental pain in the ***. The lights that were in there did not have replaceable bulbs... you had to replace the whole housing and everything. In addition to that, all the screws on my car are rusted cos its from New England, so that made it even more of a pain in the ***. I replaced them with housings that have a hole in the back for easy bulb replacement.
Your experience was exactly like mine. I live in Florida and the beach is literally across the street...the screws were so rusted I had to destroy them to get em out. Then, of coarse, a week after the right one went out, the left one went...why I didn't do both at the same time you ask? because I'm an idiot.

Rust is taking over my 240!!! I'm going to post pictures very soon, I need some serious help on how to deal with my rust issues.



Question: What can happen if you have too much oil?? Looking at the dipstick, I'm guessing I have half a quart too much? Not sure. I was reading my owners manual the other day and I saw in caps: DO NOT OVERFILL. Am I doing damage?

And if I should drain some oil out, I don't have the necessary tools. Anyways, I want to be able to do future oil/filter changes on my own. Can anyone name all of the proper tools needed and maybe give an estimate of the cost? I would really appreciate it.

ISHC
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beachsidefl321 wrote:
Your experience was exactly like mine. I live in Florida and the beach is literally across the street...the screws were so rusted I had to destroy them to get em out. Then, of coarse, a week after the right one went out, the left one went...why I didn't do both at the same time you ask? because I'm an idiot.

Rust is taking over my 240!!! I'm going to post pictures very soon, I need some serious help on how to deal with my rust issues.



Question: What can happen if you have too much oil?? Looking at the dipstick, I'm guessing I have half a quart too much? Not sure. I was reading my owners manual the other day and I saw in caps: DO NOT OVERFILL. Am I doing damage?

And if I should drain some oil out, I don't have the necessary tools. Anyways, I want to be able to do future oil/filter changes on my own. Can anyone name all of the proper tools needed and maybe give an estimate of the cost? I would really appreciate it.
do you keep your car in a garage, living near the beach isnt the best place for an older car. salt and sand causes pretty serious corrosion, also beach winds wind blowing at your car also can ruin your paint. it happens slowly, but think of it as a really slow sand blaster to your car. i live in orlando and whenever i go to the beach as soon as i get home i wash whatever vehicle i take immediately.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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beachsidefl321 wrote:
Your experience was exactly like mine. I live in Florida and the beach is literally across the street...the screws were so rusted I had to destroy them to get em out. Then, of coarse, a week after the right one went out, the left one went...why I didn't do both at the same time you ask? because I'm an idiot.

Rust is taking over my 240!!! I'm going to post pictures very soon, I need some serious help on how to deal with my rust issues.



Question: What can happen if you have too much oil?? Looking at the dipstick, I'm guessing I have half a quart too much? Not sure. I was reading my owners manual the other day and I saw in caps: DO NOT OVERFILL. Am I doing damage?

And if I should drain some oil out, I don't have the necessary tools. Anyways, I want to be able to do future oil/filter changes on my own. Can anyone name all of the proper tools needed and maybe give an estimate of the cost? I would really appreciate it.
Yeah, my house is on the water so it gets pretty beat. Not to mention all the salt they put on the damn roads around here.

Anyway,to change your oil, all you need is a 14mm wrench or ratchet (IIRC). You should be able to take your filter off by hand, but if not, get an oil filter wrench, or stab it with a screwdriver and take it out that way. The only other thing you would need is something to catch the oil coming out of the pan.

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beachsidefl321
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ISHC wrote:
do you keep your car in a garage, living near the beach isnt the best place for an older car. salt and sand causes pretty serious corrosion, also beach winds wind blowing at your car also can ruin your paint. it happens slowly, but think of it as a really slow sand blaster to your car. i live in orlando and whenever i go to the beach as soon as i get home i wash whatever vehicle i take immediately.
No garage available for me...it sucks. Not to mention all of the sprinkler water getting all over my car...sigh.
PapaSmurf2k3 wrote:
Yeah, my house is on the water so it gets pretty beat. Not to mention all the salt they put on the damn roads around here.

Anyway,to change your oil, all you need is a 14mm wrench or ratchet (IIRC). You should be able to take your filter off by hand, but if not, get an oil filter wrench, or stab it with a screwdriver and take it out that way. The only other thing you would need is something to catch the oil coming out of the pan.
Thanks for the info.

Can having too much oil have any negative effects on my engine or anything else?

mazdachild
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I am looking to buy a 1995 240sx with a KA24DE motor and a 5 speed transmission. Which would be the best choice to get more power, a SR20DET motor, or a turbo for the KA24DE? Thanks!

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PapaSmurf2k3
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TOO much oil can be bad. IIRC it will blow by your piston rings and possibly damage them. The outcome of having too much oil probably depends largly on the motor design, meaning too much oil in say a chevy motor could be way worse, or not nearly as bad as too much oil in a Nissan motor.
mazdachild wrote:I am looking to buy a 1995 240sx with a KA24DE motor and a 5 speed transmission. Which would be the best choice to get more power, a SR20DET motor, or a turbo for the KA24DE? Thanks!
Both have their ups and downs. Flip a coin if you really want. If your local Police are bad about having non-legal motors in your car, then definately go KA-T.

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Pyrokid
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Ok, so I was replacing the clutch in my 240 today, and got stuck. I have the resurfaced flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate installed. I've got the new throw-out bearing in the transmission. But, when I went to put the transmission back up it would go back on. I have the input shaft in the spline, and I'm pretty sure the teeth are lined up, but it wouldn't move any closer to the motor now matter how hard I pushed. Any body know any tricks or something I missed that would cause this?

furple
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sorry about the noobishness of this question but could someone please explain all the style terms?

like kouki, zenki, chuki, all that stuff.

nwmrkt
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prepare for one of the most "noob" questions to be asked, pardon me please.

Anyways I think my rear brakes or fronts are seized...to double check just jack the car up and try to spin them?

Also to double check...whats the proper way to jack the car up so I can spin the front/rear wheels...etc is it okay if I just jack it from the rear diff until the two rear wheels are off of the ground, and chock the front ones? Or should I go by it by another way?

Thanks

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The Inflicted
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Vicious176 wrote:Anyone know who makes this conversion kit? I may have seen it posted here or elsewhere, reguardless, I'm in love with it.
Nissan!This isn't really a "kit" per se.Not sure about the side skirts, but the bumper hood, and lights are all stock OEM S15 parts. The fenders are probably conversion fenders made from S14 stock fenders and S15 stock fenders welded together.

This black car is actually exactly like the one I just built, except mine is red and lacks the side skirts.

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Pyrokid wrote:Ok, so I was replacing the clutch in my 240 today, and got stuck. I have the resurfaced flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate installed. I've got the new throw-out bearing in the transmission. But, when I went to put the transmission back up it would go back on. I have the input shaft in the spline, and I'm pretty sure the teeth are lined up, but it wouldn't move any closer to the motor now matter how hard I pushed. Any body know any tricks or something I missed that would cause this?
Whenever that happened to me, I used to just wiggle it back and forth, or try and take it out and slide it in again. Take a look around the entire transmission and make sure it isn't hitting anything. Also make sure it is going in straight. Are you putting on the motor inside our outside of the vehicle?
furple wrote:sorry about the noobishness of this question but could someone please explain all the style terms?

like kouki, zenki, chuki, all that stuff.
Ok I thought there was a thread about this somewhere, but I did a quick search and couldn't find it so I'll give you a quick summary.We'll go in chronological order.Pignose: Original 240sx (S-chassis) design. Part of the S13 family. Denoted by the split front bumper. Came with a SOHC 2.4l Inline 4 cylinder engine in the US. (Production years 89 and 90)Chuki Also known as shark nose. The second of the S13 family. Production years 91-94 (only convertable sold in 94). Came with DOHC I4 2.4l engine in the US.ZenkiProduction years 95-96. Also came with the same DOHC I4 2.4l engine. No longer offered in hatchback. The style of the "S14". Characterised by its rounded headlights that often get cloudy or yellow.Kouki Production years 97&98. The second S14 style. Still came with the DOHC I4 2.4l engien (KA24DE). Characterised by its mean looking angled headlights.
nwmrkt wrote:prepare for one of the most "noob" questions to be asked, pardon me please.

Anyways I think my rear brakes or fronts are seized...to double check just jack the car up and try to spin them?

Also to double check...whats the proper way to jack the car up so I can spin the front/rear wheels...etc is it okay if I just jack it from the rear diff until the two rear wheels are off of the ground, and chock the front ones? Or should I go by it by another way?

Thanks
Yeah, you can jack it up and try to spin the wheel. You can also take it for an easy ride around, and then feel each brake (CAREFULLY). The one that is seized should be hot as a mofo.

To jack it up- Yeah, you can jack it up by the rear pumpkin. It is highly reccommended you use jack stands. Front- I always go by the front cross member. I have also gone by the bottom control arm. GL.

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CoreyS13
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Kind of a dumb Question but want to be 100% positive, what is the stock bolt pattern for a 89 240sx? 4x100?

Gatecrasher
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hey guys from ontario

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PapaSmurf2k3
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Coreys13 wrote:Kind of a dumb Question but want to be 100% positive, what is the stock bolt pattern for a 89 240sx? 4x100?
If it is 4 lug it is 4x114.3, if it is 5 lug I'm pretty sure it is 5x114.3

furple
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would a FWD SR20DE from a Sentra or G-20 fit on the KA trans?

if not what would have to be done?

it's the same engine so I cant imagine it would be too difficult, and am I correct in assuming that the engine mounts wouldn't need to be changed?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I beleive the bell housings are different, but I'm not too sure about SR20s.

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gismonismo
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hey guys,was up?hey bros I'm new sow here is my question; I bbought a nissan 240 with a RB25dett engine but its missing the front mmount intercooler and it cranks but doesnt start,I also notice it has no boost controller and no gauges.Am I in trouble?couse to me it seems like an electrical.
Modified by gismonismo at 9:44 PM 6/1/2008

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PapaSmurf2k3
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well first you have to determine what is wrong. Is it not getting fuel, or spark, or is the timing WAY off?

You might want to try asking in the RB forum.

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gismonismo
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well the dude that sold me the car did tell me he had to replace the alternador belt but that has nothing to do with timing.thanks bro...oh by the way what gauges should i get for it?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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I think you should worry about getting it running before you buy ANYTHING for it.After you get it running, the guages you should have (weather you have them already or not) include: Speedo, Fuel, Tach, Boost, Temp.You also might want voltage and fuel pressure, considering you are having some gremlins right now.

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gismonismo
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lol..cool hey the thing is that im not getting spark,plus the fuel pump is not activating becuse of this.definitly elecctric

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Joesph R Cooper
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Ok, So I wanted to know if an RB25 swap would be as easy as an SR swap. My friends keep telling me I'll need numerous custom parts.(mounts etc etc) True or False?

oh yeah, 91' 240SX Hatch

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gismonismo
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ill get back to ya for that later bro.cause i got it on my s14 but still figuring that out

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Pyrokid
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The RB25 does need more custom stuff then the SR. The reason the SR is an easy swap is because it was built for the s13 chassis. So in essence your friends are right.

240sx_1989
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ok im new to the nissan world i always been into honda well just recently got a 1989 240sx and well i dnt know much about it

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Pyrokid
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Well, post up your questions, and we'll do our best to answer them.

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robert552006
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hey im new too im pretty good or decent with cars, and this is my second 240, i had a 89 and now have a 91 dohc auto, now i have a problem with my check engine light, yes i checked the light bulb and its good, and i checked my ecu and it wouldnt flash 55( from my knowledge 55 is clear) and i bought a Manual dohc ecu from a buddy for 10 bucks, and i installed it and it flashed on the ecu 55 but there still was no check engine light, so i was thinking it was the ecu,so i went and got another one, and sure enough when i installed it my check engine light came on, BUT i had a problem, the computer started smoking. and so i shut my car off and disconnected the battery and pulled the ecu out. my car would still start with it, but i couldnt manually check it. does anyone have any suggestions on what it could be? i put that manual ecu in and it doesnt smoke, but i can manually check it for codes and its clear, but we all know to pass smog legally u need the light lol. any suggestions?

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PapaSmurf2k3
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so, when you turn the key to ON but not start it, with the ECU that doesn't smoke, does the CEL light up or not?

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robert552006
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sorry for the error, the ecu that smoked, does not worksince it smoked, we'll call that the 3rd one, my 1st(the one i got with the car[auto]) one doesnt read anything manually or on the cluster, and the one i bougth from my friend (my 2nd) reads manually but not on the cluster, and that is a dohc 5spd ecu


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