I'm new! Few questions! And a big thanks!

[Bennn]

I can't find the answers to these anywhere.

First off I just picked up my 720 today and it's in need of a head gasket. I'm not too worried about that but I'm unsure on pulling the radiator just from looking at it. I've replaced head gaskets before on hondas and subarus but this is the first nissan I've ever done any major work on. I'm excited to jump in! Just have a few questions.

1: I measured the headlights and they are 4x6.5. I've been looking online for a replacements that can take the h4 bulbs but can only seem to find them in 4x6. Anybody know if there are still kits out there to get these in 4x6.5? Oh an one is out so I figured I'd replace them all haha.

2: I have pulled radiators on dozens of hondas and subarus but never something like this? Is there a trick to it that I don't know about because there is no clearance. ha. I'm probably just gonna go for it tomorrow and see where it takes me but I was wondering if there are any tricks at all to this.

3: I have to replace the head gasket as stated above. Any recommendations to a gasket kit? Kinda just goin for it on this as well. lol First 720!

4. Brights are always on. Haven't searched for a fix yet mostly because of the head gasket. I've been researching as much info on that as possible just to make sure I don't make anything worse. Just curious if there's a simple solution.

5. Aftermarket steering wheel recommendations? The factory in this thing is just done. I've seen a few posts of the Grant steering wheel but was wondering if anybody else has done anything else.

I just wanted to give a huge thanks to this forum! Already saving me tons of time and I love how cheap these are to fix up and how everything can essentially be done yourself! I'm excited to get started! So thank you guys.

Here's a pic from the sellers ad and I'll try and get some better pictures tomorrow. It's hiding in my garage with the motor starting to be torn down.



Ben

[Bennn]

Also my coolant reseviour went boom and I don't want to pay $80 for one sooo is this okay? It's shiny so I figured it can't be too bad.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weapon-R-826-21 ... a4&vxp=mtr

Thanks again!

[foxfan1992]

I happen to be replacing the head gasket on my 1984 King Cab. Unfortunately in my case the cylinder head was warped beyond repair so getting a new one of those (just for a little extra cash thanks to a great deal by the auto shop).

I can answer a couple of your questions. For removing the radiator, drain the fluids from it (in my case by removing the lower hose on the driver side) and then undo the four bolts securing it in place. Once you've removed the hoses, it should come straight up.
Taking apart the cylinder head can be a real pain, it's really a two-person job since someone needs to hold the timing chain in place while the sprocket is removed and then inserting the wooden wedge to keep it from falling into the timing case.
For the headlights staying on high-beams, I had this problem too. The best advice I can recommend is to take apart the nacelle to reach the contact switches and gently tweak them with a pair of pliers and apply some isopropyl alcohol to clean them. They may simply need to be realigned and have some crud cleaned off of them.

[Bennn]

Awesome!!! Thanks for the help! I got it out tonight. I was just concerned with the fan guard but after i got that unscrewed I got it off really easily. I found out it was filled with rust so I'm going to be replacing it as well as all of the hoses. I'll have some hands for the head hopefully. I'll have it off this week and see what I'm dealing with. I'll work on the inside after I get it running! Thank you for the input!

I happen to be replacing the head gasket on my 1984 King Cab. Unfortunately in my case the cylinder head was warped beyond repair so getting a new one of those (just for a little extra cash thanks to a great deal by the auto shop).

I can answer a couple of your questions. For removing the radiator, drain the fluids from it (in my case by removing the lower hose on the driver side) and then undo the four bolts securing it in place. Once you've removed the hoses, it should come straight up.
Taking apart the cylinder head can be a real pain, it's really a two-person job since someone needs to hold the timing chain in place while the sprocket is removed and then inserting the wooden wedge to keep it from falling into the timing case.
For the headlights staying on high-beams, I had this problem too. The best advice I can recommend is to take apart the nacelle to reach the contact switches and gently tweak them with a pair of pliers and apply some isopropyl alcohol to clean them. They may simply need to be realigned and have some crud cleaned off of them.

[foxfan1992]

Yeah, I wasn't sure how your fan-guard would come off, so I didn't include that. Mine came apart in two pieces which simply slot back together.

[foxfan1992]

Hey, I'm not sure how far you are with the head gasket job - but you might want to pay attention to this:


As it turns out, I now have to take out the entire timing chain assembly because the wedge we used wasn't enough to stop the tension-piston from popping out and we cannot put the sprocket back on the camshaft as a result.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/59008 ... ?p=1022770

[Bennn]

Hey, I'm not sure how far you are with the head gasket job - but you might want to pay attention to this:


As it turns out, I now have to take out the entire timing chain assembly because the wedge we used wasn't enough to stop the tension-piston from popping out and we cannot put the sprocket back on the camshaft as a result.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/59008 ... ?p=1022770

Oh wonderful! I'm pulling the head tonight so that scares me. What did you use to block it? i've got a 1 inch thick wood rod i've jammed down in it so far. seems like it would be okay?

[foxfan1992]

Not unless you have wedged it in BEFORE removing the sprocket. If you remove the sprocket first the spring-loaded tensioner will pop out. If it has popped out you're going to have to remove the water pump, oil pump and internal spindle, and the crank pulley. Then you loosen the oil pan bolts to slightly drop the oil pan and allow easy removal (and replacement) of the timing case front cover.

It's a pain in the butt, but in my case it was a bit of a mixed blessing because I have a new timing chain but needed an excuse to put it on!
This is the best thing to use because it stops the tensioner from popping out and holds the chain up without having to have it pounded in between the sprocket and the top of the cylinder head. http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-N ... hain+wedge

[Bennn]

Not unless you have wedged it in BEFORE removing the sprocket. If you remove the sprocket first the spring-loaded tensioner will pop out. If it has popped out you're going to have to remove the water pump, oil pump and internal spindle, and the crank pulley. Then you loosen the oil pan bolts to slightly drop the oil pan and allow easy removal (and replacement) of the timing case front cover.

It's a pain in the butt, but in my case it was a bit of a mixed blessing because I have a new timing chain but needed an excuse to put it on!
This is the best thing to use because it stops the tensioner from popping out and holds the chain up without having to have it pounded in between the sprocket and the top of the cylinder head. http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-N ... hain+wedge

Thank you thank you thank you!! I have been looking everywhere for one of those and have had no idea what to search that didn't pull up 7 year old threads on what i need. Nice you got the new chain on though, I hope I won't need to touch anything else! I got one ordered with next day shipping yesterday right when I saw the link on my phone! Should have it tomorrow!

[Bennn]

Not unless you have wedged it in BEFORE removing the sprocket. If you remove the sprocket first the spring-loaded tensioner will pop out. If it has popped out you're going to have to remove the water pump, oil pump and internal spindle, and the crank pulley. Then you loosen the oil pan bolts to slightly drop the oil pan and allow easy removal (and replacement) of the timing case front cover.

It's a pain in the butt, but in my case it was a bit of a mixed blessing because I have a new timing chain but needed an excuse to put it on!
This is the best thing to use because it stops the tensioner from popping out and holds the chain up without having to have it pounded in between the sprocket and the top of the cylinder head. http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648831-N ... hain+wedge

So I got everything locked in place but can't seem to get the cam sprocket loose. Any words of wisdom on it? I don't have an impact but can probably rent one if that's what is needed.

Thanks

[foxfan1992]

You'll need to use a socket and breaker-bar to undo the camshaft bolt. Before you do that though, make sure that the timing chain is at Top-Dead Center at the end of the compression stroke which will have Pistons 1 and 3 up, and 2 and 4 down. You'll also need to put a long bar through one of the holes in the camshaft sprocket and brace it against one of the rocket shaft pedestals to stop the sprocket from turning while you undo the bolt.

There is also a rubber D-shaped plug which will need to be removed from the cylinder head in order for you to get the socket squarely on the bolt.