I'm going shopping

[mmm240]

after a lot of thought and searching i have decided to look for a 90+ (those were the fuel injected motors, correct?) hardbody. i would like to have a VG30 with manual transmission.on with the questions!in regards to 4x4 do you have to lock the hubs?did the models with the VG30 have a stiffer/stronger suspension than the KAE? what should i look for when purchasing? besides the usual leeks and rust.thanks all! much appreciated!

[Big-Bird]

The 90's Hardbody will have either Manual Hubs or Auto Hubs.

Manual Hubs requires a dial to be turned which causes a spring to engage the inner sprocket with the stub-shaft on the CV axle and the body of the hub. Once the MANUAL HUBS are locked you can shift in and out of 4WD HI to 2WD and back again while you are moving. You would still have to stop to get into 4WD LO-Range or you risk damaging the transfer case gears.

AUTOHUBS: require the truck to be stopped first. The Transfer Case lever is moved into 4WD hi or lo and then you drive forward slowly to let the rotating CV Axles rotate the internal clutch and lock in the autohub.

HOWEVER the OLD and/or WAEK AUTOHUBS do have a habbit of disengaging or clicking when you back up and then move forward again.

If you are a bit hard on the gas then they re-engage with a very harsh crack. This can break a hub or break a CV joint.

Manual Hubs for the Nissan's are made by WARN and MileMarker. The Dealer also carries AISIN hubs which are the best for Nissan's.

I had WARNS on my 95 D21, and they removed to be put on my 2000 Xterra. I have had both styles and for trail use GET the manual hubs. If you're on the trails once in a blue moon, then stick with the auto hubs. They are reliable for street use and the odd dirt excursion.

[mmm240]

thanks bird!do you know anything about the suspension being different between the kae or vg30 motors? (is it stiffer/stronger with the vg30 models?)