I'm getting nervous

[burrpenick]

Thanks one more time! I see that Hayden is the more modern type cooler- not just like a standard heater core. seems affordable, so just mounts in front of the a/c condenser, nothing special to connecting it?

[VStar650CL]

I generally try to mount them sideways and keep the pressure hose at the bottom and return hose at the top, that's for purposes of purging bubbles (Nissan does the same thing with their side tank exchangers). The pressure hose on a '10D transmission is the one on the bottom-driver-side of the beehive. It's simplest on most installations to place the cooler between the transmission and radiator, so the return hose from the radiator is untouched. You'll also need a pair of 3/8" x 5/16" "hose menders", since aftermarket coolers almost all use 3/8" hose but Nissan uses 5/16". Brass or stainless are fine, here's an example:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285710541243

[phmichel]

what cooler do you like? I see 4 and 6 row conventional type. And is the Valvalene fluid OK?
https://tinyurl.com/2fzdufks
or
https://tinyurl.com/4ue6jfb6

These will work but the Hayden 69x series has an "H" by-pass valve at the inlet side that stays closed till the fluid temp hits around 160°F, then it opens to allow fluid to flow through the cooler. A cooler without an H valve will be great in summer but could super-cool the fluid in winter. I don't know if VStar has seen this, but even with the by-pass valve versions installed, it still takes a longer time in winter for the fluid in both my vehicles to reach operating temps.

https://www.pageturnpro.com/Four-Season ... l#page/288

[itsa300zx]

I installed a Hayden 696 (6”x11”) with the thermal valve this year, with an ebay 4 port beehive, no over heating limp mode this hot past summer.
I’m in the cooler Canadian climate so this smaller sized cooler seems to do the job for our Rogue.

[VStar650CL]

I don't know if VStar has seen this, but even with the by-pass valve versions installed, it still takes a longer time in winter for the fluid in both my vehicles to reach operating temps.

That's a side effect of simply having more exposed aluminum and plumbing in the cooling/warming path. Short of cardboarding the cooler or installing a Y-valve to eliminate it for winter, I doubt there's much you can do about it. Fortunately, running cold isn't nearly as problematic to CVT's as running hot.

[phmichel]

I don't know if VStar has seen this, but even with the by-pass valve versions installed, it still takes a longer time in winter for the fluid in both my vehicles to reach operating temps.

That's a side effect of simply having more exposed aluminum and plumbing in the cooling/warming path. Short of cardboarding the cooler or installing a Y-valve to eliminate it for winter, I doubt there's much you can do about it. Fortunately, running cold isn't nearly as problematic to CVT's as running hot.

I thought about installing a simple ball valve to shutoff flow to the cooler in the winter, but wouldn't that also shutoff the needed warming circuit?

[VStar650CL]

I thought about installing a simple ball valve to shutoff flow to the cooler in the winter, but wouldn't that also shutoff the needed warming circuit?

Yep. You need a bypass circuit, not a shutoff. Since you'll want to leave the radiator tank in the loop, the place to do it is at the cooler. Put a diverter valve into one of the lines and then connect it to a tee in the other line. That way flow skips the cooler completely when the diverter is diverting, or goes through the cooler when it isn't.