I'm about to cry........

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Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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Couldn't get her to start last night after puttign my new engine in.....Fixed that today with new battery connectors.(old ones were 3 months old lol)Cranks right over. Did this a few itmes to get her primed. Hook up the coil wire and she starts instantly. Rpms shoot up to 3k. After baout 15seconds rpms dies down close to 1k and my vaccum is at -20. I turn her off. Start her up again and rpms jump up to abotu 2500 then keep going from 2k-2.5k. Nothing coming out the exhaust. Air/Fuel ratio is in the 10's....My FPR says 45psi. My vaccum is at -10..... Turn her off.. Adjust the idle screw and turn her back on. Same thing happens......BUT this time I about faint when I see oil coming out the headgasket right behind my turbo. I start her back up to see if I can figure out the idle problem and I'm lost. Just spent $500 on enth tune and it won't idle, what is fuel psi suppose ot be at idle mine is 45 shouldn't it be 35???Currently Hg is leaking horribly on exhaust side. HG is leaking on #1 cylinder intake side. My thermostat was leaking but fixed that. The guy that built my engine is gone all next week..... Is my HG trashed now that My car has been started? Or can he just clean it and then retorque everything??? I'm cursed with my KA-T


j-z
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Car: 95 240sx

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ohhh suck it up man. i havent had my car to actually run properly in 3 weeks since i got done building my motor. i havent even drove it. atleast yours will run without dying. im still keeping at it trying to figure out what is wrong and i think i know what it is now. but having someone build a motor for you and that happens, yeah id be pissed. it does get really really REALLY frustrating after spending over 4k and you cant drive your car. but im still determined to have it running perfect asap. suck it up mang.

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wild_maxx
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its possible that the builder didn't torque the bolts enough.... did he torque them all down the un-torque them all the re-torque them again?

You are supposed to do them 2 times to get them to stretch. The HG should be fine... it didnt blow... its just not sealed correctly. It could be as simple as taking off the VC and torqueing all the bolts down a bit more. Did you use ARP head studs?

Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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No stock everyhting. Only thing new in the engine is cams psitons bearings and HG. I have no idea what he did. The thermostat housingbolts were loose. Tightened them up to fix that leak. I checked eveyr bolt on the outside of the engine and it's tight. Was just the thermostat. And now the HG.JZ does your engine have oil coming out the side of block??? Rather have an engine that has a electrical problem than one that is mechanical.

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wild_maxx
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so can you take off your own valve cover? Can you properly use a torque wrench? Do you know the proper torque amount? If you answer yes to these questions.... then go ahead and do it.

The way i see it is... don't waste time posting your sad story.. get out there and try to solve the problem. If the builder didnt tighten the thermo bolts (or you didnt).... he may have forgot to torque the head bolts properly. The best way to fix it... is get in there and get your hands dirty. Good luck

j-z
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Car: 95 240sx

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hells no i dont have oil coming out the side of my block. thats why i do everything myself, so i dont have to worry about what youre going through. go take your valvecover off, loosen all the headbolts, and then retorque them in proper sequence in 3 different ft lb settings ending up at 70. i have a fueling problem with my car. sucks its raining out all day today so nothing i can do.

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Nissan_240sx
Posts: 132
Joined: Sun Nov 13, 2005 8:14 pm
Car: 1992 240sx

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good luck on the fix man

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PapaSmurf2k3
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id much rather have a mechanical prob than electrical

Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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It's not my responsibility for me to tighten my bolts. I'm just going to wait. It's his fault not mine. If I start tearing into my engine and I can't fix it liek say the head needed to be milled down. He can say it was fault not his so he can hit me up for another fee.My question was if the HG would still be ok. which was already answered.

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S14tat
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yeah if your head gasket is leaking that bad, your not getting good compression thats probrably why your car barely idles.

Florida240sx
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Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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It idles at 2000-2500 rpms. I was tryign to adjust fuel psi and idle when I noticed oil dripping. Fuel pressure should be 35 psi at idle correct?

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Jookmasta
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i think 37psi is the norm but in reality, its whatever gives ya that wideband reading that u want. i've heard/seen 35 psi - 42 psi achieving the proper idle a/f's. good luck with the fix.

j-z
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Joined: Mon Dec 01, 2003 4:26 pm
Car: 95 240sx

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it should be 43.5 psi with the vacuum hose unplugged while adjusting. that should make it right around 38 psi with it plugged in, but you adjust it to 43.5 with no hose connected.

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aaronsnocker1
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I'm pretty sure torque to yield bolts are only made to be fully torqued down one time. Maybe I'm mistaken but when I took an engine building class in college our instructor told us that.

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TravisD
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Joined: Tue Jun 08, 2004 5:46 pm

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I once had a dealership parts lackey tell me Nissan never used torque to yield bolts. I don't know if it's true, but I ignored him.

brunswick240
Posts: 197
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 1:27 pm
Car: 93 240sx SE

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Florida i hear you bout your builder blamming you for pokin around in there... but i mean why not just try it and see if it helps... if not then you can tell him to retorque them himself and see that that doesnt help then he'd have to fix it for free. I mean you and me both know that you can do it, just a matter of getting in there and doin it. Took me a week and a half to pull my short block out cuz im so damn lazy and i didnt wanna work on my car, but now im orderin parts and cleanin everything up. Once you get started its all downhill from there.

StrangeLove
Posts: 2502
Joined: Tue Dec 02, 2003 11:35 am
Car: 1995 Nissan 240sx

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Before my supra was stolen, it would do the samething your car is doing. The mechanic said it was a TPS problem. They rewired it properly and it idled just fine.

Florida240sx
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Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
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There is no receipt for this work done on my car. Cash affair. I work next door to him and helped him out moving stuff with a forklift, etc.He's also building my boss's old T-Bucket. My A/F ratio was in the 9's and after 30seconds they started to foul up. They were black as hell but cleaned right up. Fopr the first minute of running no gas smell and nothign coming out exhaust. then all of a sudden black smoke started puffing out when the car started to mis. Turned it off knowing that it was the plugs fouling out. Didn't restart vehiclke after this due to probably 1/4 qt of oil already leaked past the headgasket.

Kenrik
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Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:01 am
Car: Nissan 240SX Coupe
Infiniti G35 Coupe
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God dam I'm glad I choose to go with a SR insted of getting my engine rebuilt..

Good luck with it man this really sucks

brunswick240
Posts: 197
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 1:27 pm
Car: 93 240sx SE

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ya well just wait until you go up against a ka-t... youll hate that jdm tyte motor ^^^ fag

Kenrik
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brunswick240 wrote:ya well just wait until you go up against a ka-t... youll hate that jdm tyte motor ^^^ fag
Straight line is for Hicks.. ^^ Fag

lol


Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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Kenrik when is the next drift event. I'll come out there if my engine is broke in.... What has currently happened has no bearing on motors. It's a mechanic issue. Say when they installed your driveshaft they only used 2 bolts instead 6. Think you'll last long?

Kenrik
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Infiniti G35 Coupe
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No more OSW events... DGTrials has moved back into town and they are holding parking lot events at the Orange County Convention center... Dude it sucks though the prereg list filled up the first week... I did not get a spot

next event would be in september but the preregs would be filled like 6 weeks in advance..

Florida240sx
Posts: 11114
Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5
Location: DeLand FL

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September???When because I'm going to nopi are you?

Kenrik
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Car: Nissan 240SX Coupe
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Florida240sx wrote:September???When because I'm going to nopi are you?
Hmm Should be... we'll see. My car should be finished by then... 300WHP SR + fresh paint.

not a bad way to spend $5,000...

(ok not an exact quote from F&F but... lol)

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wild_maxx
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Kenrik wrote:
Hmm Should be... we'll see. My car should be finished by then... 300WHP SR + fresh paint.

not a bad way to spend $5,000...

(ok not an exact quote from F&F but... lol)
hopefully you get 300 hp out of 5k..... wait.. the paint will cost how much? so that leaves you with 3.5-4k for motor, misc parts, tuning, upgraded turbo, clutch, injectors, maf ect.... or is the 5k after you buy the 2-3k motor?

I know you were a KA guy before so i bet you will be disappointed when you spend all that money on the JDMness and not get what you expect.

turbo240/ams kaE rebuild kit 1700 for a SOLID bottomend good for 550+ HP...some head work and cam for 200-300nice size turbo 600rx-injectors 550cc 100-200tuned ECU by many of the self tuners for the SOHC ecu. 100-200all the misc stuff 500.... find ALOT of spare SOHC motors for CHEAP....that all just sounds soo good to me... but your choice.

Kenrik
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wild_maxx wrote:
hopefully you get 300 hp out of 5k..... wait.. the paint will cost how much? so that leaves you with 3.5-4k for motor, misc parts, tuning, upgraded turbo, clutch, injectors, maf ect.... or is the 5k after you buy the 2-3k motor?

I know you were a KA guy before so i bet you will be disappointed when you spend all that money on the JDMness and not get what you expect.

turbo240/ams kaE rebuild kit 1700 for a SOLID bottomend good for 550+ HP...some head work and cam for 200-300nice size turbo 600rx-injectors 550cc 100-200tuned ECU by many of the self tuners for the SOHC ecu. 100-200all the misc stuff 500.... find ALOT of spare SOHC motors for CHEAP....that all just sounds soo good to me... but your choice.
Read J-Zs post..

Read Florida240SXs Post..

Read Chrislis post..

KA-Ts are a PAIN IN THE ***..

I have an SR but you guys are stuck with me... No one knows anything in the SR fourm... LOL

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wild_maxx
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haha i know the ka is a PITA.. i am on my 3rd one

I have noticed the SR forums is pretty damn slow.

Kenrik
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wild_maxx wrote:haha i know the ka is a PITA.. i am on my 3rd one

I have noticed the SR forums is pretty damn slow.
That's because it's a n00b engine, you drop it in and drive.. never having to think about it again.



One KA-T owner = 5 SR owners in total car knowage.. lol

Good thing I came from KAs first

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rn240sx
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Quote »KA-Ts are a PAIN IN THE ***.. [/quote]Well generally speaking NO.. but few have run into problems... I rebuilt my motor from the ground up with forged internals and it cranked right up... Drove her for about 100 miles and hit it with 15 psi... then a few pulls at 20psi.. Still strong 1400 miles later...

I just dont understand why some people BUY and SR20 motor, then spend a few grand to rebuild it with forged internals.... Thats just plain idiotic. If ur gonna rebuild the motor, stay with the ka... Common sense will tell ya that..


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