I'm a little confused with BOV install.

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prizzom
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I have a S14 Sr20DEt swap going on and i'm installing my HKS BOV and FMIC.

I need some help with my BOV install. I done some research and i got a little confused, from what i have read....

1) some people use the hose off the waste gate and "T" it off to the the BOV and the other one goes back to a nipple on my cold pipe.

and

2) Some people use the factory vacuum/boost line from the throttle body to there BOV.

My question is are they both doing the same thing, just done different ways? And if i go the wastegate way what do i do with vacuum/boost line?

Thanks NICO


idahotuner
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oh for the wastgate havea lin coming from your hot pipe. you may need to instal a nipple ot make it work

for the BOV have it cme from the bigger nipple on the intake manifold. thank you come again!

exhsturbine
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just like idahotuner said, single line from the throttle body to the bov, use the 't' for the boost controller\wastegate.

i myself, run a single line to the fpr off the TB, a single line off the TB to the BOV, and 't' a line from a nipple on the hard pipe with one end of the t going to a manual boost controller>wastegate, the other end of it to a boost gauge. works perfect for me.

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prizzom
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So, exhsturbine, if i have a Agency Power manual boost controller going in, then i dont need to connect a hose to the wastegate?

idahotuner
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i am not sure how that boost controller works but it will go in the line betwee nthe nipple on your hot pipe and the wastegate.

exhsturbine
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yes it is absolutely crucial you use your wastegate. while a "boost controller"'s title states that it does control boost, the actual component which controls boost is the waste gate. a waste gate, such as the one on your t-25, relies on vacuum and pressure. take a look at your wastegate actuator. you will notice the vacuum line plugged into "a circle" from there an arm is connected to the turbine housing. inside the housing is a "door" this assembly is crucial to controlling boost. inside the circle is a spring, which requires a certain amount of pressure to compress. (obviously the pressure is from the turbo) when the circle fills up with air and the spring compresses, which is connected to the arm, the amount of pressure will move the arm opening the door. which in turn releases exhaust energy before it spools the turbo. ok? haha so now if you understood my screwed up explanation.... the stock spring from what i understand, is set at 7lbs. so what the boost controller does, in effect is, lie to the wastegate. now you could of course buy a different spring set at say.... 14lbs, but of course thats not adjustable, or a wastegate with an adjustable rod. but back to your question....

you need both connected! run a v-line from the hot pipe to the boost controller to the wastegate. on a manual one, tightening the screw increases the boost while loosening decreases. the controller may receive 14 lbs of boost, but its job is to tell the wastegate its getting less. hahahah make sense? i hope so. cause im so tired i can barely type good luck!

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prizzom
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exhsturbine wrote:yes it is absolutely crucial you use your wastegate. while a "boost controller"'s title states that it does control boost, the actual component which controls boost is the waste gate. a waste gate, such as the one on your t-25, relies on vacuum and pressure. take a look at your wastegate actuator. you will notice the vacuum line plugged into "a circle" from there an arm is connected to the turbine housing. inside the housing is a "door" this assembly is crucial to controlling boost. inside the circle is a spring, which requires a certain amount of pressure to compress. (obviously the pressure is from the turbo) when the circle fills up with air and the spring compresses, which is connected to the arm, the amount of pressure will move the arm opening the door. which in turn releases exhaust energy before it spools the turbo. ok? haha so now if you understood my screwed up explanation.... the stock spring from what i understand, is set at 7lbs. so what the boost controller does, in effect is, lie to the wastegate. now you could of course buy a different spring set at say.... 14lbs, but of course thats not adjustable, or a wastegate with an adjustable rod. but back to your question....

you need both connected! run a v-line from the hot pipe to the boost controller to the wastegate. on a manual one, tightening the screw increases the boost while loosening decreases. the controller may receive 14 lbs of boost, but its job is to tell the wastegate its getting less. hahahah make sense? i hope so. cause im so tired i can barely type good luck!
Awesome that explains alot . One more question. i dont have a nipple on my hot pipe, but i do have a nipple on my intake pipe, will the intake pipe work? or can i run it to my intake manifold?

idahotuner
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no. he is using the word vaccum when he should be using the word boost. it needs to be off a part of the pipe that has boost pressure. so any of the intercooler pipes not the intake pipe or manifold.

the hot pipe is good because it will give you more control with your boost controller. because the vacuum lines are shorter

exhsturbine
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prizzom wrote:Awesome that explains alot . One more question. i dont have a nipple on my hot pipe, but i do have a nipple on my intake pipe, will the intake pipe work? or can i run it to my intake manifold?
i believe that on the stock system, the boost control solenoid, and boost pressure sensor(or in your case, your manual boost controller), both received their 'signal' if you will, from the manifold, so if it was good enough for nissan it should be good enough for you. but that isnt the way that i do it for reasons that idahotuner explained. i look at the tubing as more space for boost to run off to away from my engine, the less space the better. and like idahotuner said, you cant do it off the intake.
idahotuner wrote:no. he is using the word vaccum when he should be using the word boost. it needs to be off a part of the pipe that has boost pressure. so any of the intercooler pipes not the intake pipe or manifold.the hot pipe is good because it will give you more control with your boost controller. because the vacuum lines are shorter
i may have said vacuum once, but i also said pressure, meaning boost, which is what i was focusing on. and it is better to have the nipple on the hot pipe for better response in the system, as its closer. however, ive always wondered if it wouldnt be better, to put the wastegate signal on the cold side, to account for any pressure drop in the charge air system, for a more accurate reading on how much boost is actually reaching the manifold.

anyways, have fun!!

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prizzom
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I have no connector for my boost solenoid and Yury , the guy from wiringspecialties.com, told me not to use it if your using a boost controller. So if i disconnect the boost solenoid up the boost controller between the boost solenoid and wastegate hose will that work?

If that doesn't then i'll probably just plug the boost solenoid hose and get a nipple on my hotpipe.

thanks for the help

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get some pis of the boost controller posted. no matter waht you do you needa line going to your wastegate othat wise you wastgate wont open and you could dystroy your turbo and or motor

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prizzom
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http://enjukuracing.com/agency...6_148

I no personal pics yet but i hope this helps.

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prizzom
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here is what i'm thinking of....



I think i'm going to use the boost solenoid for my boost gauge.




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prizzom
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this is that little nipple on the back or the intake manifold

idahotuner
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that nipple on the back i think should go to your brake booster. and you got the vaccume lines going good. for your boost gauge if it is only a boot gauge running it off the boost silanoid nipple will work but you will not get vaccum there becasue it is on the wrong side of the throttle body. and for your waste gate line **** niple on your hot pipe

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prizzom
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Alright cool. i got a new nipple on my hot pipe and ran a boost gauge to the nipple where that waste gate hose was at.

thanks for the help hopefully she run's properly.


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