i keep posting but nobody responds thought you all knew these cars

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
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MYFREE95,240SX
Posts: 121
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:39 am
Car: 1995 NISSAN 240sx KA24DE 1995 NISSAN 240SX ka24de yes two of them

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cars idle is screwed... in gear when warm only, will sputter and stall happens in reverse mostly when accelerating it sputters alot until about 3 grand then runs fine. car is a 95 ka24de with 207000 miles recently i have done.... injectors, wires, distributer cap, plugs, fuel filter, battery, 2 alternators due to a charging system issue that i think is fixed now. ummm.... thats about it. this sputtering issue is not new and was doing it before anything was replaced i cant find a vacuum leak and is now alot worse after doing injectors. when i disconnect mafs idle is really nice. please i need to diagnose this asap it is my daily driver and i need it to work. funds are low so start with inexpensive things. and im not some 20 guru so laymen terms help. i have the Chilton's for my car but they show a completely diff. engine then mine and i cant find half of the things they talk about. please help im here twice a day minimal with time to work on her.


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Steady_One_S13
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Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:42 am
Car: 1991 SR'd 240sx S13, 1993 Toyota SW21 Mr2...
Location: 915
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MYFREE95,240SX wrote:cars idle is screwed... in gear when warm only, will sputter and stall happens in reverse mostly when accelerating it sputters alot until about 3 grand then runs fine. when i disconnect mafs idle is really nice.
It seems like a problem with the maf. Try swapping a new one. My old mafhad the same symptoms as yours.

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onosqv
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Joined: Wed Aug 07, 2002 12:32 pm
Car: '92 240sx Vert
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1) Get an FSM (Factory Service Manual) - it's available on here & via search on google if you don't want to buy a hard copy version on eBay/locally.

or you can keep replacing random parts

Have you tried first pulling ecu codes from your car to see if there are any error codes? I would start there.

Have you tested your maf? There is a procedure in the FSM or via searching on here. Since you said when you disconnect it, the idle is nice --> there's a good chance the maf could be poop.

Another thing to look into is your coolant temp sensor - if you've searched about idle issues on this forum, the coolant/engine temp sensor is another likely culprit; and for about $20-30, it never hurts to change it, especially on a 200k+ car.

Have you run the o2 sensor check/test? It is also outlined in the FSM + searching on here.

When did this problem start showing up? After you did some maintenance? out of the blue? etc?

UNVMY240
Posts: 129
Joined: Sat Mar 31, 2007 2:43 am
Car: 91' 240 LE KA24DE

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I agree it does sound like a MAF (mass air flow) sensor. Before swapping it out try tapping the top of it with the butt of a screw drive with the car running. See if idle changes just from that. If it does than thats the problem for sure. If the car stays the same it still could be a MAF. Is the car running rich? Do you see black smoke from tail pipe?

carkook
Posts: 380
Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2008 4:18 pm

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MYFREE95,240SX wrote: when i disconnect mafs idle is really nice. please i need to diagnose this asap it is my daily driver and i need it to work.
you diagnosed your own problem

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grecco28
Posts: 73
Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:15 pm
Car: 1992 240sx

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yeah! do it your self Lol , just kidding ... it sounds like a bad maf sensor to me...

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alfsnissan
Posts: 175
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:52 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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MYFREE95,240SX
Posts: 121
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:39 am
Car: 1995 NISSAN 240sx KA24DE 1995 NISSAN 240SX ka24de yes two of them

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its crazy in here i have been posting about this issue for 3 months and i keep getting diff answers first everyone was like its your injectors but it wasnt. fuel filter, nope again and part of my prob is i have the chiltons but they show a diff engine then my car so i cant even find these sensors ect that you all are talking about well who got a mafs for sale i will keep trying things. it got way worse after i changed my injectors and i know it is not them they are all sealed good and working. thanks for your suggestions im having a mechanic come over on sat to try and go through it all with me i will go mess with the mafs now and see whats up with it. and i do know i have a bad o2 sensor after my cat. but prob has been around for months and i messed up the o2 like a week ago. the problem did just start randomly there was alot of resin from it sitting for 2 years when i changed out the fuel filter the first time it was full of crap but 3 months later when it started getting bad again i put in another and the one i took out was fine. its really annoying. stay in touch i will keep you all informed thanks for the feed back bump

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MYFREE95,240SX
Posts: 121
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:39 am
Car: 1995 NISSAN 240sx KA24DE 1995 NISSAN 240SX ka24de yes two of them

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oh yeah and i forgot it will only start doing this after about 5-10 min so wouldnt that rure out the mafs?

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MYFREE95,240SX
Posts: 121
Joined: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:39 am
Car: 1995 NISSAN 240sx KA24DE 1995 NISSAN 240SX ka24de yes two of them

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alfsnissan wrote:http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/240sx/

There you go.
THANK YOU MUCH APPRECIATED

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alfsnissan
Posts: 175
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 1:52 pm
Car: 1995 Nissan 240SX

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No prob. I was in the same boat and tried may things to fix my problems, and for me, it simpily was the MAFS. Hope you find the problem.

mojoriffic1
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2008 6:43 am
Car: s13

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From my understanding, 240x start and warm up on a closed loop setup..... so until the car has reached a certain temp, it won't start looking for feedback from sensors. So your 5 to 10 minutes before symptoms sounds like its in closed loop to me.

From my experience, and apparently others, your MAF is most likely the culprit. Now that you have access to an FSM, use a voltage meter to measure values at the MAF and make sure you are getting proper voltage and grounds accordingly. If so, and you want to be sure, see if you can borrow someone elses to test. I would advise swapping in a borrowed part only after testing with a meter, so you don't fry someone else's part if it is faulty wiring that has caused a failure. It would suck to have to buy two MAFs. I highly suggest replacing any parts that are known to be bad(such as your o2 sensor) before you start trying to diagnose unknown parts.



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