I is new have sr TPS Question...

[spotteddawg]

just got a s13 w/sr20det swap already done.car pulls great but way way lean.I have been searching for TPS topics.I found out how to check the TPS and when I checked for voltage at the white wire it read .10 and when at WOT it remained at .10 . I did not disconnect the plug because I see no plug. the wires where soldered together.wierd but the white wire coming from the TPS was soldered to a shielded wire going to the wiring harness.crappy solder job.wrapped with black electrical tape and all.it has a t28 turbo with fuel pump that came with the motor and the original ecu for that mtor as well.NOW, I am a DSM'er and correct me if Im wrong but that be causing the lean condition and the part throttle bad hesitation when accelerating? if I stump the gas The car runs fine and pulls way past 105mph in 4th and maintains 10psi until I let off. Im new to the 240 scene so any help would be awsome. hard to see but that is the white wire soldered to a shield wire.Shane

[spotteddawg]

I have the worst luck with people leaving info. They dont...DSM site is the same.Damn..anything? throw me a bone

[wildacexxx]

check your ecu for codes. how did u determine that u're running lean? did u pull out the plugs?

[spotteddawg]

no have"n pulled plugs but di have a A/F gauge. I know ,I know its a light show. but even at that it should read something.even if accidental.when I stomp it the gauge heads lean then dissapears.and I notice when the gauge reads rich again ,while I am on the boost ,I feel a little kick and the tone of the engine sounds better and the slight skipping is gone. Now when the gauge reads rich under boost ,I usaully have to let off a liitle to get the car back into the rich condition If I didnt di that it would show nothing until I did.keep in mind that the gauge goes to the lean and vanishes there. Thank You for replying.

[wildacexxx]

pull the plugs and get codes from ecu. unless u have a wideband dont mention the a/f gauge if u know its bs.

[PDX_S14]

tps should be at .35 - .65v fully closed

[spotteddawg]

I'll pull the plugs and check them but without being so sure it is the TPS and jumping to the conclusion that is what it is..10 fully closed and .10 fully open is there anything I may have checked wrong?turn the key to 2nd on position .neg. probe to the neg. on batt. then touch white wire with pos. probe.that was my understanding. another thing today while driving down the road,I found that spot in the throttle where I can hold the gas in 4th or 5th at just about any speed and the car stops excellerating,doesnt shut off but quits running and all but dies until I pat the gas peddle and it will pick up and go.gauge rises to 0PSI and once I press the gas and the gauge shows +pressure it takes off.It is as thou I have to race through all gears winding each one out,under pos. boost to prevent it from doing it. there is no smooth easy driving past second gear after 2nd have to race through 3rd - 5th. I hope that explains whats going on and not to confusing...I suck at explaining things!!!Shane

[PDX_S14]

when you test the tps... let the car wurm up to operation temp. and leave the engine on then you test the tps..... from top to bottom.... theres 3 wires ...... A B C you test the A and B... you should have reading from .35-.65 . if you dont get .35-.65 then you losen the tps bolts to adjust the voltage..... if that still didnt work then ohm test the tps.

[S13240]

Those cheap narrowband a/f gauges don't work for crap on our cars. Mine did the same thing as yours but ran beautifully.

[spotteddawg]

okay did that and went so far afterwards and took it off.did the ohms test while turning the tps and nothing.stays on .10. hey look at this tps and tell me if it looks right for the car. I keep hearing about plug in types. this one is not the case.this is a pic of the TPS AND if you look closely you will see the crappy solder job they did connecting the TPS center wire to the shielded wire on the harness side.

[spotteddawg]

pics are crap but hopefully you can see

[PDX_S14]

looks to me that they use a ka throttle body and tps... which is fine but you might want to check the connections and redo the solder...... .10v that dont seem right....

[spotteddawg]

so if I was to install a TPS from the sentra se-r 91-94 it wont work?

[spotteddawg]

oh and also. I checked and there was 5v present to the TPS.so voltage is there at The TPS . just not changing when TPS is rotated. Thanks

[spotteddawg]

just answered my own question.just got the TPS from a sentra se-r and no it will not fit.but I will return it and get my 43.00 dollars back.trying to locate some pics of a ka TPS to see if thats it.Thanks

[spotteddawg]

read somewhere else and found out I dont hook probe to neg. on batt. but on the "A" wire on plug read right that time,but when at WOT it only goes up to 4.23v and that is set at .50v.when I adjusted it to the lowest setting at closed it still only went to only 4.34v at WOT.dont know if it matters anyway.I unplugged the batt. for the next 24 hours then I'll see.resoldered everything and got rid of black tape in place of heat shrink tubes.also the plugs I pulled where the NGK "5's" and replaced with the NGK "6's".Shane

[spotteddawg]

Well just hooked the batt. back up after a long 24 hour disconnect to erase computer stored codes as advised here on the site.It appears to run a little better after the resolder job and setting the TPS at .50v closed, but now at idle, it surges just a little.almost though the air conditioner is cutting on and off.idles normal about two seconds then raises to about 1150 rpm about a second and drops back down to 850rpm.its not much but it is something new and I figure someone may have experienced this before.like I say its kinda like the air compressor is coming on and off and the idle is raising. Ohh! there is no a/c on car or any of its components.Thanks fellows for any input.Shane

[PDX_S14]

check for leaks and maf

[spotteddawg]

Thanks PDX I have checked for leaks and found zip--I will check archives for how to check MAF,but let me ask ya something. First, I know the Maf reads air intake,peri. pressure, and temp. it calculates all this and a known value of the cross section of the MAF and checks various sensors TPS RPM Etc....looks at all these values checks the computers spead sheet style read out and knows the amount of inj. pulse width to add the correct amount of fuel for that give supply of air.The car , when I bought it, is not recirculating the BOV back into the inlet pipe.so the question is...Would that be a factor in the Idle problem and the lean condition? due to the fact I beleive the BOV is also sucking in extra air while under not under boost.that would explain the lean condition riding down the road in 4th or 5th and it seems to want to die until I stomp the gas. Also, I see alot of atmospheric BOV and no blow through set up.How are they compensating for the lost air when the BOV dumps to the outside air? I'm new to this nissan thang and I'm really enjoying the car,I'm a little buggy about running a top notch car with no BS to worry about,So go easy if the questions seem noob.Before as I said Im a DSM'er but there seems to be alot of similarities in modding these 4 bangers w/turbos.hey an engine is an engine. Thanks and sorry for the long post.

[boost_creep]

thats definitly a ka throttle body.sr's dont have the second pulley for the cruise control.

[PDX_S14]

ok... im suck at explaining things ok... ... anyways... atmospheric BOV ... will cost a rich condition....because when the bov released the meter air and the ecu already got a signal from the maf thinking theres air coming.... then the ecu puting X amount of fuel in for the X amount of air......but the x amount of air is short.... so that mean you got less air more fuel in your system..... umm... when you check for leaks did you pressued the system ? thats the best way to check for leaks... you ckeck for vacumm lines, turbo manifoldm,turbo, gaskets ? SR are very picky motor.. at least the one i touched....

[spotteddawg]

hooked up my air compressor to the turbo inlet and the throttle body.throttle body was useless, and I should have known,becuase of some of the valves open.Im still searching for the MAF test how to.that will be my next task.I wish they made some kinda data logging hardware and software for the sr's.instead of the overly priced usuals sold every where.Owell...next I believe I will recirculate the BOV back into the inlet pipe.would know anyone who sells a reasonable one?Thanks for the replys.

Also the info on the TPS from the post above,...Thanks I will check that.did order a sentra sr one and its nowhere near the one on it. the one I have has a hole on the TB side of it and a small flat spot where the rod runs in to it.Thanks