Lubricants. what are they good for? they reduce friction between dynamic objects. A good lubricant can make a difference in bed, now that's a fact!!
Well how about your car, you love your car don't you. I know I do.
Here's the story:
I'm a redneck when it comes to type of oils in your engine. I have always used petrolium and never even looked at synthetics. Recently, i was having problems with my transmission making noise while its cold. You could hear it turning in neutral at idle.
Well, i changed the fluid to Redline MT-90 and guess what, about a week later shifting feels perfect and transmission makes 0% noise. AMAZING!!====================================================
that being said, i was thinking to start using synthetic in the engine too. I have always used 10w30 in summer and 5w30 in winter. Always! Valvoline regular petrolium.
The problem is that I get info from the wrong people. Every time i get excited and wanna switch, these people working at Pep Boys tell me that If i got lots of miles on the engine i will be getting leaks from synthetic.
is this true??
to make long story short. Should i switch or not? Which one to use? Mobil 1 or Gastrol? If i switch, how to switch, use 50/50 synthetic/petrolium for couple miles, then change to full synthetic????????
specs:92 240SX SE112,000 miles--all stock
I get a bit oil evaporation on the head cover during the winter when i use 5w30, i'm guessing due to thin oil and cold weather it evaporates and makes the head cover look oily on the sides. In summer you dont see that.
SO SHOULD I SWITCH?? WHY OR WHY NOT?
currently got 4 quarts of Valvoline 5w30 in the engine.
P.S. I appreciate everyone's useful response in this matter.
I Have Seen The Magic Of... Well I need your informative help here.
Re: I Have Seen The Magic Of... Well I need your info ... (sanioll)
i like synthetics. i use redline diff and transmission fluid. also use mobil 1 in my truck, but not in my 240.
from what i've read synthetics are "thinner". by that i mean that they are able to find all the little leaks in your gaskets/seals and start leaking. your old dino oil just sorta plugs up those small holes. the new syn will clean that crap out eventually and find its way onto the ground. which is why most people will tell you not to run synthetic in a hi-milage car, it'll just start leaking out. not gushinng out add a qt a week gushing, just a little messy nuisance.
in my truck (98 ka powered frontier, bought new) i swithed to syn about 30k. no probs since. my 240 was used so i have no idea what previous owners did. so in it i sometimes use a partial syn. mobil makes a partial syn for hi-milage cars. when i can find it i use that. but after i finish the rebuild i'll break it in on dino oil and swicth to syn soon afterwards.
so yes its good stuff, imo. just making the switch can be bad for some people depending on their motors health.
from what i've read synthetics are "thinner". by that i mean that they are able to find all the little leaks in your gaskets/seals and start leaking. your old dino oil just sorta plugs up those small holes. the new syn will clean that crap out eventually and find its way onto the ground. which is why most people will tell you not to run synthetic in a hi-milage car, it'll just start leaking out. not gushinng out add a qt a week gushing, just a little messy nuisance.
in my truck (98 ka powered frontier, bought new) i swithed to syn about 30k. no probs since. my 240 was used so i have no idea what previous owners did. so in it i sometimes use a partial syn. mobil makes a partial syn for hi-milage cars. when i can find it i use that. but after i finish the rebuild i'll break it in on dino oil and swicth to syn soon afterwards.
so yes its good stuff, imo. just making the switch can be bad for some people depending on their motors health.
Syns are more uniform in molecule shape. They are able to leak from anywhere that will fit one of their molecules. They've got better detergent packages.
If you switch, make the switch. I used mobil 1 without any problems in a KA24E that had 147k on it all the way to the time I removed it at 187k without a leak, or any such problems. Your motor however, may be in different shape. If you've got worn seals that are being sealed by bunch of stuff there, you're better off with the dino stuff, but why let get a temporary fix? Fix it with a new seal and enjoy your longer oil change intervals and eventually cleaner motor.
Synthetics can last longer than dino oil, run more smoothly, and can do a cleanup job in the motor.
If you switch, make the switch. I used mobil 1 without any problems in a KA24E that had 147k on it all the way to the time I removed it at 187k without a leak, or any such problems. Your motor however, may be in different shape. If you've got worn seals that are being sealed by bunch of stuff there, you're better off with the dino stuff, but why let get a temporary fix? Fix it with a new seal and enjoy your longer oil change intervals and eventually cleaner motor.
Synthetics can last longer than dino oil, run more smoothly, and can do a cleanup job in the motor.
Re: (180fan)
exactly what i wanted to hear, this coming weeks i'm going to change.
now i like mobil 1. So just get 4 quarts, drain old petrolium oil completely and refill with 4 quarts of full synthetic?? do i have to partially move to synthetic or just simply suddenly change?? this doesnt create any problems for an engine does it??
also which oil to use? i usually see 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Full synthetic on wal-mart shelves. Is this the one?? see pic attached. cost about $20 for 5 quarts. Also I always use Pureone Purelator for oil filter. $6.
what weight to use? 10w30 for all the seasons. if i switch to synthetic, i will probably be using 10w30 in the winter too.
now i like mobil 1. So just get 4 quarts, drain old petrolium oil completely and refill with 4 quarts of full synthetic?? do i have to partially move to synthetic or just simply suddenly change?? this doesnt create any problems for an engine does it??
also which oil to use? i usually see 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Full synthetic on wal-mart shelves. Is this the one?? see pic attached. cost about $20 for 5 quarts. Also I always use Pureone Purelator for oil filter. $6.
what weight to use? 10w30 for all the seasons. if i switch to synthetic, i will probably be using 10w30 in the winter too.
Re: (sanioll)
that wally world bargain is a good deal.
you should probably stick with whatever weigth of oil your using now. however you may be able to get away with a higher viscosity. i run 20w50.
just switch all at once if your going to. do a little research on filters. i dont know the specifics about the one your using, but they are all not created equally. and of course everybody has an opinion. i use an stp filter. i used to use a k&n oil filter until i found out that bosch makes the filters for kn, mobil 1 and stp. its the same design for all, just a different name. but the stp costs less.
you should probably stick with whatever weigth of oil your using now. however you may be able to get away with a higher viscosity. i run 20w50.
just switch all at once if your going to. do a little research on filters. i dont know the specifics about the one your using, but they are all not created equally. and of course everybody has an opinion. i use an stp filter. i used to use a k&n oil filter until i found out that bosch makes the filters for kn, mobil 1 and stp. its the same design for all, just a different name. but the stp costs less.
Re: (eddiec)
see this is what i hate. I just went to work and my boss and others started yelling at me stating that:
if i switch to synthetic on a high milegage car, synthetic will simply find a way to leak out. it has active detergents and clean the engine inside out and old seals will start to leak.
Now this sucks man. most of them own a domestic car though.
Is this true. is it that bad. guy at work said that after trying synthetic you wont be able to switch back, becuase its gonna leak badly.
are all these comments made by these guys, are they true, and do they apply to japanese cars like our lovely 240's???
reason i'm so hardly trying to switch is becuase, i need this car to last throughout college for another 3 years without any problems and I saw what Redline Did to my transmission too, so engine should feel even better i assume.
if i switch to synthetic on a high milegage car, synthetic will simply find a way to leak out. it has active detergents and clean the engine inside out and old seals will start to leak.
Now this sucks man. most of them own a domestic car though.
Is this true. is it that bad. guy at work said that after trying synthetic you wont be able to switch back, becuase its gonna leak badly.
are all these comments made by these guys, are they true, and do they apply to japanese cars like our lovely 240's???
reason i'm so hardly trying to switch is becuase, i need this car to last throughout college for another 3 years without any problems and I saw what Redline Did to my transmission too, so engine should feel even better i assume.
Re: (sanioll)
look what i foundhttp://www.reubengathright.com/sludge.txt
Let's put to bed some of the objections you will hear concerning the use of synthetic engine lubricants (some are old debates ... some are new): (Your concern is answered in Myth #5)
Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize. Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.
Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness"). For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.
Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)
Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synthetic lubricants to suffer a bad reputation. Fortunately, those days are long gone. Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.
Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy. Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.
Myth #6: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors
Untrue. In fact the very low ash content of synthetics will extend the life of every exhaust system component.
Myth #7: Synthetics void warranties
Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill. Which may not make the dealers too happy since oil changes usually lead to other service work.
Myth #8: Synthetics last forever
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non synthetics. Amsoil's unique additives packages allow for extended drain intervals.
Myth #9: Synthetics are too expensive
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine lubricants more economical than conventional non synthetics. In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
Myth #10: Synthetic oils contain detergents that can make the oil seals leak in older cars
Synthetic lubricants do have an inherent detergency that cleans and removes conventional motor oil deposits left over in an engine. However, motor oils are designed to help swell seals slightly to prevent leakage. The only time you would observe seal leakage is if the seals are already damaged or showing signs of leakage around them. As long as the vehicle has been well maintained, and in good mechanical condition, it can be switched to a synthetic lubricant at any mileage. __________________________________________________
Let's put to bed some of the objections you will hear concerning the use of synthetic engine lubricants (some are old debates ... some are new): (Your concern is answered in Myth #5)
Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals
Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize. Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.
Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine
Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness"). For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.
Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil
Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)
Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum
Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synthetic lubricants to suffer a bad reputation. Fortunately, those days are long gone. Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.
Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge
Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy. Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.
Myth #6: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors
Untrue. In fact the very low ash content of synthetics will extend the life of every exhaust system component.
Myth #7: Synthetics void warranties
Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill. Which may not make the dealers too happy since oil changes usually lead to other service work.
Myth #8: Synthetics last forever
Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non synthetics. Amsoil's unique additives packages allow for extended drain intervals.
Myth #9: Synthetics are too expensive
Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine lubricants more economical than conventional non synthetics. In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.
Myth #10: Synthetic oils contain detergents that can make the oil seals leak in older cars
Synthetic lubricants do have an inherent detergency that cleans and removes conventional motor oil deposits left over in an engine. However, motor oils are designed to help swell seals slightly to prevent leakage. The only time you would observe seal leakage is if the seals are already damaged or showing signs of leakage around them. As long as the vehicle has been well maintained, and in good mechanical condition, it can be switched to a synthetic lubricant at any mileage. __________________________________________________
Re: (sanioll)
bump.
read my previous post. some people might find it very useful. I did.
read my previous post. some people might find it very useful. I did.
Re: (sanioll)
Well all right, after reading even more info about it, Mobil1 turns me on so bad!
anyone wants to say bad things about switching. anybody??
anyone wants to say bad things about switching. anybody??
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cyrus240sx
- Posts: 587
- Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 5:44 pm
- Car: 95 240sx with five lug swap, rims, suspension, I H E, remote start, too bad its auto