I have Banjo Bolt issues on turboi oil line, and i need your suggestions

[chicos240]

The Banjo bolt that goes into the block does not tighten very well. The bolt is in decent shape, the threads are all there though they are a little *soft*. So when I put the banjo and the 2 copper washers on the banjo bolt and i try to tighten, it does grab, but it does not tighten all the way. I can not pull the banjo bolt out with my hands, i have to un-tighten it and it does come out. Now if I do NOT put the banjo and the washers on the banjo bolt IT DOES tighten all the way. This makes me assume there is *soft* spots on both the bolt and the block.I dont know what to do. I have 3 ideas.1) New BANJO Bolt, which will have nice sharp threads. 2) New Banjo Bolt thats a little longer, therefore giving me more thread, I have no clue if these even exist, help me out if you know.3) Use some earls fittings and hope they work.By connecting first pic to the block, but I am unsure the threads are LONG enough to go past the soft spots. Then connecting the second pic to reduce it to my Circuit sports SS oil return line.Now I know the main reason for the banjo bolt is to reduce oil pressure, now will these fittings do the same thing? and if so will they do it well, it looks like they would but im not a viscous expert.Thanks for your help guys

[chicos240]

please, help

[nzmoman]

I actually dumped the banjo bolt. I got a ss line and a pipe threaded connector. Pipe thread expands to tighten as you screw it in. you can add a pressure gauge in between that and the turbo. Then I of course connected the line to the turbo. It cost about 50-70. I cant remember. The Earls connectors where the expensive part. I

If you have a drag shop near you all these parts are found available there. This option is a bit ghetto. but I'll be damned if it didnt put my car on the road and that stock turbo is still going strong with the new owner boostin the hell out of it.

[Neil]

what?? banjo bolts were not invented to reduce oil pressure!

Banjo bolts are used with hard lines where clearance is a problem versus the cost of using other 90° hardened aluminum fittings or flexible lines that may end up turning out to be unreliable.

The bolt threads are probably fine. the block is aluminum, you may have overtorqued it and stripped the threads.

[chicos240]

i swear i read somewhere that the reason there was a banjo bolt there was to reduce pressure to save your bearings on your turbo....Anyway, highly likely i stripped or cross threaded the first few threads. Any ideas on how to fix this, can i repair the threads? without having to drill it out and use a helicoil?**EDIT***Anyone know the thread of this for an sr20det s14, i have read 12x1.25 or 12x1.5 ?**EDIT**The Banjo Bolt is a 12mm x 1.25
Modified by chicos240 at 9:44 PM 1/30/2007

[nzmoman]

you wont be able to drill that hole out and not use helicoil. if you drill it out you will increase the size of the hole. thats why I used the pipe threading. I drilled the hole out by hand, just hold the bit in your hand and turn it using a rag or something. it will happen slowly buy it is pretty easy.

then get a tap and thread the new hole. if you use helicoil insert your threaded coils and then your bolt. It isnt that bad and other than the helicoil tools you wont need any special power tools.

If you are trying to retain the stock lines then you will have to use the helicoil

[chicos240]

OHHHHH man, am i screwed, look at my new post

[brandonb012]

i had the SAME problem!!

i just got the earls an fittings and put alot of loctite on the fitting and its holding up so far!!

from what i have read the banjo bolt is the restrictor for the turbo!!

[chicos240]

Yeah, I should have tried that first, now im royally screwed. Oh well

[brandonb012]

not screwed really, just plug the hole and get some sort of fitting from the oil pressure sending deal, so you can run the sending unit & another line to the turbo! That was my next plan for mine and actually still gonna get all the stuff and keep in the car just in case!

[chicos240]

Wait, explain that a little better what pressure sending deal?

[Steve Lloyd]

he's talking about running a "t" off the oil presure sending unit the way the KA guys do it. You will still need to plug the hole you got in your block somehow, but if you can't get it fixed, plugging it and running a new line from the oil pressure sending unit is a cheaper option than a new block.

[chicos240]

SO let me see If I understand this. I can block the hole with putty or JB weld, then "T" from the oil cooler?

[brandonb012]

SO let me see If I understand this. I can block the hole with putty or JB weld, then "T" from the oil cooler?

if you go that route i wouldnt use putty or jb weld, i would personaly use a bolt the length maybe a little shorter than the banjo bolt and use some thread lock on it so it doesnt try to work out or leak!