I have a slow power steering fluid leak

[Freeze Time]

I used that stuff that's supposed to stop the leak after 200 miles or 3 days of driving but it didn't work. It seems like every 3 days or so, I need to add more fluid. Is this a simple fix I can do myself or do I need to take the car to my mechanic?

[barnaclebob]

It depends where the fluid is leaking from. People on this board have done entire rack swaps so it depends on your skill level and the amount of time you are willing to put in.

Can you give any more details about the leak?

Replacing a hose might be easy, the pump a little harder, and the rack more difficult.

[Freeze Time]

I don't have that many details sadly. I just know that it's leaking. I didn't drive it 200 miles or for 3 days straight after I put the stop leak in. Does that matter? Like does that stop leak fluid need the car to run a certain amount for it to work? I can pop the hood and look for signs but the last time I checked, I didn't see any fluid anywhere.

[barnaclebob]

The fluid has to be going somewhere. Have you checked all hose connections? Get out a flashlight and look hard, crawl under the car if you need to. Wipe up any oily areas and see if more comes back It could also be leaking near the boots by the wheels.

How much fluid are you adding every 3 days?

I don't trust most stop leak stuff, I think its preying upon people that would rather try throwing $20 at a problem before going to a mechanic.

[Freeze Time]

Stop leak only cost me $5 so it's not a big deal. I get a weird noise when accelerating and of course any time I turn the wheel I get a noise if I don't ad more fluid. I am adding like 8 oz or so to make it full. I will do some detective work in a little bit.

[Buzzman]

The power steering hoses have a tendency to fail after all these years.
Mine had to be replaced a few years ago, and after looking under the hood, gave it to my mechanic to replace.
PITA job.
Yours should be different as it's a 3.3 engine.
Mine is the 3.5, and I would not tackle the job on my own.

[AlanAZ]

The lower part of the thinner low-pressure return hose that connects to the side of the reservoir is weeping on mine, I think due to the heat from the exhaust manifold, all the rest are dry. I'm ordering a new one ~$22, and will replace when I drain the reservoir to change the PS fluid.

[Freeze Time]

Took it to my mechanic. Rack and pinion leak. Told me to get some stop leak and see if that works. I told him I already did but he said to try it again and this time, drive the car a lot. Recommended Lucas brand. I'll report back with an update.

[Freeze Time]

All the stop leak fluid is now all over my asphalt driveway which I will now have to clean. Never cleaned up stop leak before so that will be new. Bottle says it might take 2 bottles to stop but I think I am screwed and need to just fix the rack and pinion leak. I will google on how to do that but my mechanic says it will be $200-300 so I am assuming it's not something I will be able to do on my own.

[barnaclebob]

All the stop leak fluid is now all over my asphalt driveway which I will now have to clean. Never cleaned up stop leak before so that will be new. Bottle says it might take 2 bottles to stop but I think I am screwed and need to just fix the rack and pinion leak. I will google on how to do that but my mechanic says it will be $200-300 so I am assuming it's not something I will be able to do on my own.

It is a more advanced job DIY based on threads where other people have done it. $200-$300 sounds like a pretty good price for a new steering rack. Its that parts, labor, and realignment?

[Freeze Time]

He just said $200-$300 to fix it. Says a dealer would charge around $800. Didn't go into detail. He did tell me he would need to keep it for a day or 2 which is not something I can do so I will have to try to see if I can bring it in early on a slower day. I'm more concerned about cleaning up all the fluid that leaked out. It's a pretty large evidence on the ground.

[Freeze Time]

My mechanic can't take my car until Monday. He will need it for at least a day so that sucks. He says the alignment will need to be fixed after the rack and pinion so I can't get it sooner. Still haven't cleaned the spot up on my asphalt driveway. I have comet on it right now to hopefully soak up the power steering and stop leak fluid and will try kitty litter next if that doesn't work. I also read that WD-40 is supposed to work. My mechanic says he has a special soap if all else fails. It's not fun having the car leak. I have to put a container under the car every time and fill it up when I drive it or I get a noise that doesn't seem safe. Will probably have to buy some more fluid to get me through to Monday.

[barnaclebob]

Are you using power steering fluid or ATF fluid?

[Freeze Time]

I tried stop leak and it leaked all over the driveway. I put in some power steering fluid to go somewhere and that's leaking.

[Freeze Time]

It is a more advanced job DIY based on threads where other people have done it. $200-$300 sounds like a pretty good price for a new steering rack. Its that parts, labor, and realignment?

He just called me and said my car is done. Turns out the $200-300 estimate was just on parts. Whole thing came to $750! I swear to the maker, this is the most expensive car I've ever owned!!! I've had it for 2 1/2 years and I had to get a new distributor for $390. $210 for the bushings to get shipped to me for the death sway and then for the labor to fix the sway and to have a new air flow meter installed it came to $640. Now I have to pay $750 for this rack and pinion fix. I owned a Toyota pickup for 10 years and it didn't even cost this much to fix and maintain! I bought the Qx4 because I was told how reliable they are but it seems I do nothing but pay for things to get fixed on it. I need to get brakes and tires soon too. That's another $600 at least when the time comes. I bought this car for $2100 and have put $1990 into it so far. I owned a piece of junk 1994 Buick Century for 2 years before I bought the QX4 and the only thing I had to fix on that cost me $200.

Is $1990 for 2 1/2 years of ownership normal and a good deal to you? Coming from a car where I only paid $200 to fix things in about the same time of ownership, it makes this car look like a huge money pit. I still have to clean off the stains in the driveway too. So much for the QX4 being a cheap and reliable vehicle....

[barnaclebob]

If you want to keep a pathfinder to old age you need to DIY or pay. Most repairs are fairly simple but take time. Shops charge for time.

If I didn't do my maintenance and repairs myself I would have spent probably $3k in the last two years. Instead I've spend $500 on tools and another $300 in parts or fluids.

They are cheap and pretty reliable when maintenance is kept up to date. But you have a car that's nearly 20 years old. Its going to have issues. Mine has only failed to start when the battery was dead and it needed a tow once when the power steering belt broke while my brother was driving it. That was due to deferring maintenance though.

[Freeze Time]

I checked out the DIY regarding the rack and pinion and it's not something I could have done. Again, the 94 buick I owned before the qx4 cost me $1100 and I had it for 2 years and I only put $200 into the car. I don't think I want to invest anymore into this money pit. Tires and brakes will have to be done soon and that will put me over what I paid for the car. Since I can't sell it for $4000, I am going to lose money. I can't comprehend how a car is reliable and barely has any problems when I've almost spent the amount to fix things than the car itself cost. I am strongly thinking about selling it or trading it for a different car on craigslist. I have been very disappointed in this car. I guess I just have bad luck.

[barnaclebob]

Brakes are easy DIY and you knew its tire life when you bought it...

How are the struts and when was the last time fluids were changed?

Your car might be fine for a few years or it could have the transmission crap out next month if its fluid has never been changed. O2 sensors could also start going out and those are $80 each to replace yourself.

[Freeze Time]

I have no idea about the fluids. I would rather sell it than put more money into it with brakes and tires even if I can do the brakes myself. My mechanic said everything else looked good. Total was $740.83 and so that's a grand total of $1980 I have put into this car since buying it in March of 2014. I know that's not a normal cost of owning a car for just 2 years. Maybe I was just incredibly lucky with the 94 Buick but even my truck of 10 years didn't have this many problems. I will do even more research this time so I can find a car that is actually cheap to own and doesn't have as many problems as the QX4. Good grief.

[barnaclebob]

IF you are planning on buying 16 year old high mileage vehicles without the ability to replace most semi major components yourself you are asking for trouble no matter what you buy. Most of the things you listed should have been possible DIY. Brakes, tires, and bushings can be inspected pre-purchase.

[Freeze Time]

I made a thread about 2 error codes I am getting but no one responded. They are P0158 and P0159. My mechanic reset the check engine light but it came back on today. Is this a fix I can do myself? How much will it cost? My OBDII scanner won't clear either code.

**EDIT** I found this thread p0158-and-p0159-on-a-2001-pathfinder-t114207.html
Looks like I'm screwed again. I wonder how much it will be this time. I have no problem with having a check engine light on but if I do sell it, I doubt they would buy the car with the light on.

[atraudes]

It should be between 40 and 70 for a new one. I think my downstream ones were $40 each. I'd recommend you DIY. It's a fairly simple procedure and you're right; getting that CEL light off will make it much easier to sell.

[Freeze Time]

The stains are not coming out. Kitty litter did not clump or work at all. I guess I can put more on but nothing seems to be getting rid if it.