i have a quick ? for yall

[capwred]

ok on my ca when you go to stop it goes daed sometimes.it will crank back up and run fine.it doesnt do this all the time.and it ideas from 750 to 900.it wont idea any better.it revs fine and runs good and strong when going down the road.

thanksjason

[pulsar gtr]

well, your ideal is about right, a ca18de/T should be idling approx at 800rpm +/-50rpm.

Regarding your car dying, do you have a tuned ecu? what maf are you using? what mods do you have done on the engine?

RafiPULSAR GTR

[c-rad]

Do you have an aftermarket blow off valve that is not recirculated back into the intake?

[capwred]

the ideal still isnt right you can feel it going up and down to much but i can live with it. the mods on my car is,srt25,3'' greedy downpipe,3'' high flow cat,3''trust cat back,efan,160 degree thrematsic (sp),blitz boost controller,safc2,hks turbo timer,apexi twin champer bov,i believe thats it.

do you think the bov needs adjusting?and theres no codes on the ecu either.

[c-rad]

the ideal still isnt right you can feel it going up and down to much but i can live with it. the mods on my car is,srt25,3'' greedy downpipe,3'' high flow cat,3''trust cat back,efan,160 degree thrematsic (sp),blitz boost controller,safc2,hks turbo timer,apexi twin champer bov,i believe thats it.

do you think the bov needs adjusting?and theres no codes on the ecu either.

Reason I ask is, sometimes if you are running a standard push type valve, if it's old, it can start to clog and not close all the way or start to leak from a worn out spring. Then on deceleration like when you come to a stop, the motor either bogs real low or dies altogether.

[F3600]

Do you have a Z32 MAF ? If so, be sure to install a 5-6 inch straight pipe after the air is metered it help smoothing things out ..

My car was always stalling coming to a stop when i was just boosting a sec before..

I just modified my intake and it was not stalling anymore.

[boost_boy]

Do you have a Z32 MAF ? If so, be sure to install a 5-6 inch straight pipe after the air is metered it help smoothing things out ..

My car was always stalling coming to a stop when i was just boosting a sec before..

I just modified my intake and it was not stalling anymore.

He's on the right track, but you guys really need to pay attention to what I'm about to say. Over the last year, I've been hearing you guys complain about your car not fast idling properly, fluctuating idle, blah, blah, so what I'm about to say is going to take you all back to CA18DET pre-K:

1. If you are running a stock set-up, you must attempt to duplicate the factory's original plan (A must).

2. If you are using an aftermarket turbo (Ie a T3/T4, A Gt series turbo, etc, etc), you still have to attempt to duplicate the factory's plan.

3. The hose off the AIV that most of you hook up to your intercooler piping near the throttle body, must be hooked-up in front of the air flow meter as seen on a normal KA24E/DE set-up's air flow filter box (please make note of this and pass it on).

4. Venting a BOV on the CA18DET is just plain bad. Some get away with it and their engines don't stumble or die and most do not. I actually had a problem with it, but still did it anyways because the car only cut-out sometimes. But the correct way is to either recirculate it using a DSM BOV or some type of recirculating BOV, change to a map-based ecu or piggy back, or simply use no bov (wastegate flutter sounds pretty cool too). Don't think you're killing the turbo either because as long as you keep the boost under 12psi on systems with the small turbochargers, you won't be needing a rebuild anytime soon on your turbocharger (Think factory set-up).

5. You must and say again "YOU MUST keep the air flow meter at least 12-15inches (More if you can) away from the turbo or you will have driveability issues. To those that try that stuff they see on videos with AFM right at that turbo's mouth, don't come to the forum crying about your car running like crap because you will be referred to this sticky and your thread will be "LOCKED".

6. If you must vent, don't come on the forum crying about running issues or you will be referred back to this sticky and your post will be "LOCKED".

7. The factory system to include injectors, turbocharger, smic, afm, etc, is not intended to be pushed past it's maximum limit of 12psi. If you push it past this limit without upgrading your car/engine's component and something gives out, don't complain!

8. If you're trying to run 20psi on your stock smic and T25/T28, you will melt a piston or 4, burn your headgasket, and be looking for a rebuild. Your computers, turbochargers (in some cases), afm (also in some cases), and injectors are not up to the task and will cost you in the end if you do try (Pure experience learned me this).

Hopefully some of you guys/girls or whatever you title yourselves take the time to read this thoroughly and not skip through it. I don't like to reiterate myself because of lazy people, so I say this:

A. If you don't know what in the hell you are doing, pay some one to do it for you.

B. Just because you got away with something on a honda swap that you participated in or mitsu swap, doesn't mean it's going to work on nissan's product, so don't come in here saying "Well, when I did a B16 swap, it worked just fine"; it just won't here.

C. Most importantly people "Research and read.

Mods, feel free to add or make changes as need. I think this needs to be at everyone's access at all times because some of these cats will never stop having problems if we don't do more and they don't read more.

Thanks,

Dee

[capwred]

i have the factory intake pipe but i didnt us the box.i put a cone filter on because the box was broke.

and dee whats up man?did i make you made by asking a ? on this forum?is this not what this forum is all about is to learn and talk to people about there projects and cars?im sorry if i made you mad our anyone elae.and i have searched it out if you have ever notice i always research everything i do or want to know but you dont always fine what you are loooking for.so thats why i asked.

[boost_boy]

i have the factory intake pipe but i didnt us the box.i put a cone filter on because the box was broke.

and dee whats up man?did i make you made by asking a ? on this forum?is this not what this forum is all about is to learn and talk to people about there projects and cars?im sorry if i made you mad our anyone elae.and i have searched it out if you have ever notice i always research everything i do or want to know but you dont always fine what you are loooking for.so thats why i asked.

No-No man, I'm not mad at all. This needs to be said because there's so many problems that I continue to hear people have and I don't reply to many of them because of repetition, so I let others respond. So what I did was, speak what I know and hope that members follow suit or at least give it a swing. You have to understand that many of the problems you all are experiencing, someone here have experienced them and also found a remedy for them as well. My Post is also is a sticky for future inquiries about said topics and intended solely to help people stop shooting questions that are not getting the correct responses. I'm sorry if you took it the wrong way, dude! I'm just doing my part and making sure those who care to listen and learn have an active databse to feed from.

Dee

[rico05]

#1: I run a vented, but properly adjusted HKS SSQV BOV w/o any dramas.

#2: However, If I am on boost, and suddenly stop (like when I pop off the BOV to get a ladies attention LOL), the combination of venting with the pull of the brake booster has killed my car a few times

#3: Dee is right. Check all of the stuff he mentioned and then some. Remember: Most people can't vent and be ok. My old ARC Type3 vented made my car almost undrivable.

[capwred]

Reason I ask is, sometimes if you are running a standard push type valve, if it's old, it can start to clog and not close all the way or start to leak from a worn out spring. Then on deceleration like when you come to a stop, the motor either bogs real low or dies altogether.

well you hit it on the nose.i adjusted the apexi bov and it fix the problem.i guess it just wasnt closeing all the way.thanks for the help

thanks for the info dee.and you wouldnt have any injectors for sale that would fit the ca.anything from 440 to 550's.

[boost_boy]

well you hit it on the nose.i adjusted the apexi bov and it fix the problem.i guess it just wasnt closeing all the way.thanks for the help

thanks for the info dee.and you wouldnt have any injectors for sale that would fit the ca.anything from 440 to 550's.

I have mitsu injectors in my 4G61 that will be getting retired soon. I'll let you know if you haven't found something sooner.

Dee

[capwred]

ok thanks