I have a 2006 Nissan Pathfinder that overheated and shut off with no check engine light and no code

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
azfarrier1970
Posts: 1
Joined: Fri Jul 28, 2017 1:30 pm
Car: 2006 Nissan Pathfinder

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While driving a water hose nipple broke and lost the coolant. The engine overheated and shut down. The temp gauge never changed from normal operating temp and no check engine light either. Right before it shut down the engine dieseled and shut down. Now the engine turns over but will not start.


Blindaviator
Posts: 148
Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2017 8:49 pm
Car: 2001 Nissan Pathfinder LE

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The temp gauge will only work when the sensor is immersed in liquid... When it lost the coolant the temp sensor would show the temp it was last at when immersed in the coolant...

If it overheated to the point of dying then the engine is likely toast... At the very least it likely blew the head gaskets but more than likely it would crack the head(s) or block... You're just lucky it didn't get hot enough to seize the pistons in the cylinders...

Put plain water back in it and Check the oil and cylinders for water... If it will still turn over then you can do a compression test on all cylinders and that will tell you what cylinders have issues...

Mike W.
Posts: 419
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Car: 2003 Infiniti QX4 with a drinking problem. Gone but not forgotten
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Location: California Whine Country

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Check engine is emissions related only. Until it sees a smog problem it's happy. No matter if it's out of oil and a rod comes thru the block, it's not a smog problem. I agree with Blindaviator on the rest, it's likely got warped heads and severely blown head gaskets.

EdBwoy
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Joined: Tue Dec 25, 2012 12:47 am
Location: Indiana, USA
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Welcome to the forum, and sorry for your misfortune.

From my experience, the check engine relates all engine control systems - for example flashing when severe emissions issues are present, but will also indicate transmission codes etc... If you get an overheated vehicle started back up, you could get an engine over temperature code, but this code usually depends on the coolant sensor reporting a high temperature to the ECU.
In a twisted way, a slow leak [like a loose clamp, bad radiator cap] will usually leave enough fluid in the system for its temperature to be picked up by the sensor.
An abrupt leak could actually have the temperature needle going towards COLD/MIN with time if the leak is bad enough that the sensor isn't sitting in coolant anymore. [Some sensors are the reverse and the needle immediately jumps to HOT/MAX when this happens, but the Nissans I know would show cold when dry]


I'm guessing you were dieseling due to the high temperature as your ignition source and presence of air and fuel (albeit a small amount).

All that is how I would explain the WHYs and WHY NOTs. Otherwise, as posted above, aluminum engines don't take too well to overheating, and I'm putting my money on lost compression.


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