This always ends up being one of the very few abort project issues I run into.

I had it changed almost 2 years and not sure how many miles ago. Would have to check the Infiniti papers somewhere.

I have gotten it off twice in the past, but this time and the time before, I can’t seem to get it to budge. I notice both times I couldn’t, was when the sealing grease is applied to the bolt. I know that’s what you’re supposed to do, but it seems to make it impossible to remove on the ground.

I have 2 bottles of diff fluid and a new extension 1/2 ratchet, plus used PB blast And put fire around the threads. And it almost seems I can’t get a turn because there’s no room where the ratchet head is to really put leverage.

Anyone learned a hack? Lol. I do my own oil and trans changes and I use a crush washer to avoid wasteful situations like this. I wish I could change it to one of those. And paying $100+ to have it changed is ridiculous considering I have the pump, the garage, the tools. I just can’t get the leverage.

Fortunately the drain bolt I didn’t touch yet, and I can’t imagine the fluid being too dirty…however my senses tell me it’s ready to be changed. Most likely have to send it to a shop.

You might want to try a different ratchet. I think in the past I've used a 3/8" ratchet with a 1/2" adapter into the plug just to get a bit of extra clearance in there.
I just filled my diff oil today with a 1/2" ratchet and a 5" extension. Did not give me any trouble but its easy when you have the subframe out lol.

That’s a possibility. I have a couple 3/8, even one that swivels. But with the force it’s on, I wouldn’t want to break the mechanism.

I also have the same 6” wrench I used to get it off before, but for whatever reason can’t seem to get it to budge this time. Wtf is the torque for that thing? lol

Doesn’t help that some rust has made its way around. I’m going to need a new fill plug after this.

Update:

Well I took it to the shop to loosen off the differential bolts. I brought both new plugs because they were already mangled and rusted.

New plugs installed well, and I used thread sealant tape this time instead of the thread sealant stuff that seems to make the plugs impossible to remove from ground level.

However I ran into an issue but am not sure what the hell happened: was tightening the fill plug back and as I got 3/4 of way tightened the plug, heard a crack and some dust fly around. I was only using 1 hand with a 1/2 ratchet to tighten so wasn’t using brute force, though there was some extra resistance. The drain plug bolt stopped by itself, but this one seemed to have kept going. The plug didn’t back out or anything, but I “think” a hairline crack appeared in the cover. I didn’t bother loosening the bolt back fully, but it seemed to be okay when I retightened it.

Couldn’t believe that happened. I had some permeatex spray and seal on hand, but from what I been researching it could have just been a surface “crazing” on the outside. Drove around and checked for leaks, however I’ll be checking again next couple days after driving to see.

Had this issue in the past with my thermostat housing. Was tightening it and it cracked. Going forward, I’m not using suggested torque anymore

Future tip : Try anti-seize ( thicker the better ) on both fill & drain threads very very 'liberally' applied , just tighten by HAND a light like 15 ft/lb's . Probly no leak..............it leaks ?? Simply tighten a little more on the 'culpret' . Now that anti-seize tends to dry out and actually seep less and less. Slight leak still ??? HAND tighten a wee bit more , your just doing like <1/16th turn at a time. And it's not like a bad oil leak , where a motor will get trashed . Being conservative like this keeps you from cracking that "alloy" crap metal in some diff cases chosen for light weight to strength ratios , ya know
Diff leakage at the 'plugs' is like ONLY a stain.......as such , great leaps of overkill to remedy has disastrous / unfortunate outcomes .

I wondered about the anti-seize route, does that require much in the way of “cute” time or is it good to go right away?

This thread seal tape is apparently good in sub zero up to 500 degrees. Not something I’d use on anything else, but normally for use on shower heads. It wrapped pretty nicely around the threads and I didn’t over-do it, like just 2 layers to avoid enlarging the threads.

That's just it , anti-seize seems to be good to go immediately , over time it just loses it's ' fluidity' or viscous-ness - BUT doesn't really go on to get really cured NOR hardened like most plumbers / pipe thread 'dopes' .Pipe compound that hardens is NOT still ready to continue to re-torque AND stay well-sealed - BUT anti-seize is great for giving further adjustments over days , even weeks little by little till any seapage is virtually 'fixed' .
In the case of Teflon tape thread-seals , I'm afraid I concern that 'remnants' of the stuff can get to engine,transmission etc. (lesser degree a Diff ). Clogging passages in 'modern' cars is a BIG

p.s. Lastly ,Anti-seize , like it's name implies - it's designed for EASY removal , as good or better than Teflon cause you got NO white pieces stuck waaaay inside the 'hole'

Thanks for the suggestions, I’m probably going to have to either go that route or apply some permeatex to the plug. Checked a couple times and it definitely Tia leaking from the drain plug. Not really inclined to do the whole thing over again but may just have to for peace of mind.

It’s one of those cases of, “wish I would have just left it alone”, but the fluid after 2 years looked pretty gone. I do my own oil and trans changes never any leaks or issues, so it seemed easy enough. Last time I took it to Infiniti direct to change it, and it was $100. Not a fortune but still a lot when I know can do it myself. And could have swore I been hearing a whirring noise on my last highway trip coming from the rear area. Though seems to have quieted down with tire change

And previous changes have gone okay…but this Teflon tape idea didn’t seem to work as intended. Anti-Seize it is…plenty of that around.

Wanted to mention, appreciate the tips but I also don’t want to keep having to Jack the car up and tighten the bolts. It’s really a pain getting to the full plug. Only 1 of my tools allows enough leverage to get to it, and I brought it years ago specifically for that.

I’m just going to take the bolts back out, permeatex red on it, and then leave it for good lol. Unless there’s a way to just go with anti-seize all together.

The leak is kinda bad. 3rd time doing this myself and not messed up like this before lol. Was just trying to avoid having to puppy over to the mechanic in the future to loosen the full plug, but after this point: I am just going to follow the directions in the manual which simply says: xxxxxxxxx clear past 60,000 miles lol. Which I guess means, 100,000 miles lol. If Infiniti wanted this job to be done more often, they would have made it easier with a crush washer haha

Update:

So I went ahead and re-did everything. It was a mess. Idk how but diff fluid must have sprayed out as I was on highway because there was a lot of residue and both plugs were seeping. I had to emergency pull it back into the garage and see what the hell was going on.

Fortunately, there was no stripped thread or broken fill plug like I feared. Couldn’t find any “cracks” in the cover, so not sure what that sound was. Probably just a crack in the “coating” not the pan itself.

f*** that Teflon tape idea! Maybe I didn’t use enough but there isn’t much room to do so. And there’s even warnings that too much can crack the female threads. I’ll stick with that for shower heads only.

The anti-seize idea sounded good, but I couldn’t take anymore chances. There must be a lot of pressure in the differential, and can’t find anywhere that anti seize is suitable for that, even on the tube I had.

I actually still have a bottle of this stuff that I only use for oil plugs and diff bolts. I was a bit more careful this time to only apply one 3/4 strip to the 2nd threads. Doesn’t take much.

https://www.permatex.com/products/threa ... ant-50-ml/

Okay so update:

I re-installed the drain and fill plug, sealant and all. Let it cure and it’s been sitting for almost 2 weeks while I went away.

Come back home, there’s a huge spot under the diff. I’m thinking are you kidding me?? Or maybe it’s just dripped from when the residue that was on underneath. Nope…

Drove it around and rechecked, sure enough something got cracked, there’s a drip coming from around one of the bolts around the case. Not the fill or drain.

I can’t see exactly what is cracked but going to see about taking that bolt out, seeing if it broke, putting the thread sealant on it and gasket sealing whatever crack I can see. I had a feeling there was way too much fluid underneath to have just been a drippy plug.

Probably going to have to undo the fill bolt again and top off, hopefully it budges. not sure how much fluid I might of lost. But even driving 180 miles couple weeks ago, I still had little over a quart drain out. So can’t imagine it being too low.

All because I tried to used A LITTLE Teflon tape for the fill plug, and I guess the extra thickness of the fill bolt stressed the casing. What a f*** joke

Drain oil, JB Weld, fill oil, send it….

Infinitiguy19 wrote: ↑

Wed Jul 05, 2023 5:24 pm

Drain oil, JB Weld, fill oil, send it….

Thanks…that’s a start.

I have various tubes of gasket maker/sealant lying around that I used for a couple projects. Considering to use one of those.

But can’t say anything until I undo the suspect bolt, luckily at the bottom. The cover is fine but the differential case it’s connected to is hella rusted. It probably tried to pull away as I was tightening and the pop I heard could have been a bolt that separated.

Well the saga continues…I know this has gone beyond advice lol.

Took another look again for the 3rd time: while sitting it only shows 1 drop of oil from the bottom corner on the side as the fill plug. Seems to me it was moreso the gasket that cracked versus the cover. So I went and smeared some regular gasket sealant on there. No leaks overnight.

But soon as I hit the highway, I park and see a drip. Put a pan underneath and it’s a GOOD amount of drip. Nothing streaming but after an hour and half it’s evident in the pan something is wrong.

So next step: went and got a $15 bottle of gear oil specific gasket sealant/maker and 2 more bottles oil. Plan is to drain it all, don’t bother with saving it, smear the area of the leak again and not fill for a day or 2. Hopefully hopefully hopefully it’ll fix the issue. I think I been rushing to refill before letting it seal, and been looking at the cover moreso the gasket itself.

But at this point, there’s no way I’m going to tackle #1 removing the diff or other crap to get the cover off and #2 paying a shop to do it when I’m already waist deep in car repairs on 3 vehicles lol. So HOPEFULLY I can get away with saving a gasket and just puttying it up.

And the plugs are all sealed and tightened fine and aren’t leaking. Even at properly tightened, there’s a couple groves of thead left. I still don’t know how using PTFE tape (which I even seen on installation instructions for a diff cover bolt elsewhere) could have caused the case to do what it did and break a gasket. Since then I’ve only been using my high temperature sealant. Coulda just been coincidence or a case of fixing something, broke something . But once I finish this, that will be the last diff fluid change I do on this one

Update #10 lol,

The situation is looking real sad. I puttied up as much of the bottom area and what looked like a crack as possible the other day, let it sit for 3 days: and it didn’t do anything. It’s still leaking.

What has me so disappointed is, I don’t know exactly where the f*** leak is coming from??? I can’t tell if it’s the cover or the gasket. Or if it’s coming from below the fill plug or from up above, or both. The leak is too slow when parked to find. But when driving it’s throwing grease onto the exhaust and spare tire section. Seems like the case is only wet on 1 side, that the fill plug is on.

What makes it worse is, the cover is discontinued and the gasket only available $50+ from Infiniti websites. I see a website that I can source it from Japan, but it’s $140 with shipping. Too much for a stupid part lol.

I’m about to make a desperate move and just coat the entire cover in permeatex gasket sealant. Otherwise I’m looking at having to take it to a shop and have them drop it, plus the cost of gasket and cover. Or just gasket if I feel I can seal a crack if there is one.

Just can’t understand how this happened!!! All I did is lightly screw in the full plug with a couple wraps of Teflon tape, and heard a pop. Wish I never used that stuff. I might be sending them a bill if I have to replace my cover lol.

There may be a 1% chance the shop I had remove it, might of started a crack in the process…but I doubt it. Just wish the case and gasket was more easily removable.

The good news is: it isn’t leaking fast enough to where I can’t drive on the highway. Drove about 200 miles yesterday and all is good. But definitely going to be using my other vehicle for the most part, there’s no available differentials to replace if it runs out completely.

Clean the cover, put a few drops of UV dye in the oil, and drive it just long enough for the magic flashlight to show you where the leak is. If you have to discard the gasket and seal it, I highly recommend Gray Death, the same sealer Nissan uses instead of a gasket on timing covers. The aftermarket equivalent is Permatex Ultra Gray. The stuff will stop up diarrhea in a pachyderm.

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 14, 2023 5:56 pm

Clean the cover, put a few drops of UV dye in the oil, and drive it just long enough for the magic flashlight to show you where the leak is. If you have to discard the gasket and seal it, I highly recommend Gray Death, the same sealer Nissan uses instead of a gasket on timing covers. The aftermarket equivalent is Permatex Ultra Gray. The stuff will stop up diarrhea in a pachyderm.

Ah, so I can apply dye? I have the goggles for it…but it was for finding a/c leak. I do have a small tube of ultra grey that I used on a different project and somewhat used on what I thought was a crack. Also have non hardening sealant. I’m starting to believe the crack is up near the fill plug, hidden behind the frame where I can’t see, and is just leaking down. But I doubt it’s above the fill plug, considering that it leaked for a week without me even driving.

At this point I just got desperate and ordered a can of Permatex spray a gasket. Going to basically paint the entire diff cover and see if it holds. I hate the idea of “rigging” a repair but, it’s just not many options for a quick proper fix.

However, the casing of the differential itself is incredibly rusted. It’s probably a 1% chance it’s coming from there too, but it was not leaking prior to this.

You can use UV dye in just about anything. I use it routinely in motor oil, coolant, and P/S fluid. The only things I'm afraid to use it in are CVT trannies and electric A/C compressors, and I don't think I'd use it in a washer tank for obvious reasons (very obvious).

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Sat Jul 15, 2023 5:38 am

You can use UV dye in just about anything. I use it routinely in motor oil, coolant, and P/S fluid. The only things I'm afraid to use it in are CVT trannies and electric A/C compressors, and I don't think I'd use it in a washer tank for obvious reasons (very obvious).

The dye in my Freon and the goggle and UV kit helped me trace down a mysterious growing leak in my a/c couple months ago. I thought it was my aftermarket compressor since it was showing oil on the clutch, but closer inspection with the dye showed it was coming from the rubber hose above: a very small tear: was causing me to lose Freon within an hour of highway driving. And only highway driving. The hose is discontinued but, I been gooping it with Permatex spray and seal but most recently put gasket sealant on it. Leak slowed significantly. Hoping the gasket sealant holds it permanently. Gets fairly cold and holding 40-45 PSI.

Back to the issue at hand: The differential leak is definitely coming from the fill plug area, somewhere around the fill plug. I think it went across, behind the subframe bar where I can’t see it. I degreased and pressure washed it, drove a few miles and it’s dripping down from up above, to the bottom, but I can only see half the diff cover without my Jack. After awhile, the heat evaporates it to where it’s hard to see. I picked up some engine enamel spray and going to spray and Permatex seal the whole case…Hopefully that’ll seal it.

Have a friend who brought a 100+ year old historic home…realized my cover crack seems like small fries versus that lol, they’re spending thousands and trying to DIY s***. I’m like no…stuff like this keeps me awake at night as it is lol. Brakes due on 1 car, shocks and brakes on another. And the Q needs $2,500 in paint (which I’m about to just have them sand the top and buy some duplicolor primer, enamel, gloss and call it). It’s even worse when you don’t have the money to do it

Btw: going to my original post, I don’t think it’s the sealant that causes the bolt to be difficult to get off. I been able to get both the fill and drain plug off between reapplying. Could have been a mix between old plugs and the general freezing cold/blazing hot temps in my area over time that causes those plugs to not want to budge. Almost like spark plugs left in too long…

That said, likely not something I’m going to be doing routinely again…too much of a pain the a**

VStar650CL wrote: ↑

Fri Jul 14, 2023 5:56 pm

The stuff will stop up diarrhea in a pachyderm.

Update, I’m crossing fingers I finally defeated this leak. It’s been a f-ing disaster! Probably worst DIY mistake I’ve made since I couldn’t figure out how to do the fan/waterpump bolts when I first had it.

The issue was, the crack was hidden from view and very elusive. If I parked with the back end up an incline, it wouldn’t leak. It would leak soon as I started driving or parked with the back end on decline. So the cover crack (this isn’t the diff itself, just the cover) was pretty much hidden behind the suspension frame. I see where it started near the fill plug, but couldn’t see where it ended. I could just see a stream of fluid coming down.

I had to pretty much get the JB weld putty, and try to fit 1 finger into the little bit of space where I could see fluid dripping down from. Jacking up the fill plug side of the rear, ensured it wouldn’t leak. The crack had to been somewhere around the same level as the fluid is normally. It’s not so high that it wouldn’t leak when parked. It WOULD leave a big puddle, even when parked. But there’s no f*** space to do anything except move my finger around. Even using a screwdriver. I was trying not to glue the cover to the frame, but I had to get it thick enough to cover the area. Or get it too close the fill plug.

So far I been doing tests with the Jackstands to make sure it doesn’t leak. Even with JB weld the first time it was leaking, but just below the “weld”. So I had to add more to it. Seems to have stopped and be all dry. Need to see next day how it goes after driving.

Even though partially my fault, I think it’s a big part a design flaw having the diff cover hidden by a huge bar. And the fill plug too close to the f*** s*** to begin with. They should have given it a few inches. Only way to even get to the full cover, is to remove the differential itself. Which I’m sure would probably be another $200-$250 repair. Plus the gasket and/or cover.

I guess that’s the con to having a vehicle no longer in production (except American cars like my Cadillac that shares similar makes/models and simply get rebadged. Parts for it are plentiful) FML

Final update: issue solved!

After consulting around and avoiding a potential recommendation to drop the differential carrier and weld: I learned gasket sealant makes for a great JB weld alternative. The putty stuff was not a solution, it dried too fast and the crack was too small, so just leaked right under. So I ended up having to paint some gasket maker on and let it cure while jacked up on 1 side, for 24 hours. The crack was smaller than I was guessing for the mess it was making, and I was looking in the wrong spot.

Drove about 150 miles and checked the next day, all is dry and clear.

Only good in all this, is the diff fluid is like new now, similar to oil change translucency. Pretty confident I won’t have to change or mess with it again. Lesson learned: no thread tape on differential bolts. Stick with the sealant