I got one DYNO run in today

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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red240ne
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I put down 201whp 268ft lbs, but the car died at 4200rpms, haha.

This was at 6psi from my T3/T04E 57 trim .63 a/r with A/F ratios below 10:1....haha

It's kind of a long story, but I was in the middle of my first run, and it was richer than crap, and the car eventually died out. I figured it was just b/c it was dumping WAAY too much fuel in. So I leaned it out with the SAFC and tried a couple more runs, but it was still WAAY too rich...

So, I said screw it, I'll go home and fix whatever is wrong with my car. I'm driving home, and it's barelly driveable at this point. I get out and realize that one of my charge pipes isn't even connected!!!!

So I fix that, and do a short run with my car. Another pipe blows off. Fix it, another pipe blows off....THEY WON'T STAY ON!!!

I don't know what I'm going to do...I have silicone couplers and rubber couplers. The rubber ones seem to grip better actually, and the silicones were falling off. going back to the dyno tomorrow though...

curt


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WDRacing
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You need some type of bead on the end of each pipe. You can use LB weld or even use a MIG welder. Both work well...I used to have the same problem a few years ago on my home made piping.

WD

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ftrs13
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I have little weld beads on the ends of everything that connects with the connectors, so that they cannot slide off.

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red240ne
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Yea, "klattr" was telling me the same thing, haha. I guess that's what I'll do tomorrow then!!

Thanks for the input guys..

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C-Kwik
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Or just find yourself better clamps(T-Bolt) and tighten them down really well.

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red240ne wrote:I put down 201whp 268ft lbs, but the car died at 4200rpms, haha.
that’s strange, most of the dyno numbers I have seen the HP numbers & TQ numbers were closer, i think the dyno is inaccurate

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red240ne
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Like I said, I only took it up to 4200rpms..Peak HP would have been a lot higher.

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red240ne wrote:Like I said, I only took it up to 4200rpms..Peak HP would have been a lot higher.
Ahh that makes sense

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Def
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I've seen pipes hold together under ALOT of pressure(40+ psi, or mach 3 when released through a 0.6 in diameter nozzle) by just flaring the ends of the pipe a bit.

Or just JB Weld them one inside the other - I've trusted my life to JB Weld more times than I can remember when I worked in an aeronautical and acoustics research facility. :)

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GEO
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Beading is an AWESOME idea.

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sil80drifter
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can one use JBWeld for beading? like a layer of jbweld on the end of the pipes, so it dries on them and sticks and makes a "bead"?

sil80

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ftrs13
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Im pretty sure that would work, or you could just find someone with a mig welder, and put 4 beads around the pipe.

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Drift Machine
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C-Kwik wrote:Or just find yourself better clamps(T-Bolt) and tighten them down really well.


Thats what I did, and right now I haven't had a problem with blowing connections but I'm only running 6 psi.

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I've never blown a connector off, and thats with no REAL beads...just a few dents towards the outside I put at all the joints (hard to describe). I dont even have t-bolt clamps, just heavy duty worm gears. I dont know what you guys are doing, but mine hold just fine, even at over 25psi...weirdness.

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LongIsland240
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I thought i could get by on worm gears for a while, but the first time i blew a pipe off in traffic I went right home and ordered t-bolts. No problems since.

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red240ne
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LongIsland240 wrote: i blew a pipe off in traffic


hahaha, yea that sucks

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95_240sx
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Dude...I will let you all in on a little secret....silicone or rubber connectors will work for this...get yourself a bottle of that real nice Aquanet Hairspray and spray it on the ends of the pipes and slide the couplers over the ends and tighten up the clamps. Remember, hairspray is sticky and it has some kind of solvent or something in it (alcohol? :) ) that reacts with the coupler and makes them stay together. I have never blown off a pipe I hairsprayed, but I have blown apart cheap silicone connectors.

Rick

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GEO
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teh WISEMAN speaks

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95_240sx
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hey as long as it works...

Rick


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