I got bass

A forum for the legendary Nissan Pathfinder and Infiniti QX4.
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audtatious
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I thought I was pretty clear. Based upon the previous information in the thread, the OP took it that any underpowering will blow subs which is incorrect.

"ghetto" the link may be but that does not mean the information provided is not correct.


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Natedogg1701
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Qxxx4 wrote:Nala, nice setup! your going to experience every song in a whole new way. I cant stand hearing music in stock systems now, i end up laughing at my friends.

Natedogg, you have the same taillights as me!

as for the installing yourself...its so true....I got my subs/amp/box for $140 used of craigslist, still pumpin hard a year later, and if the setup gets stolen...wow..$140. Sure its not a sick setup like natedoggs, but i get a real clean sound that my friends all find impressive. (2 10" clarions in a sealed box, """"1500W""" (super quotations) boss amp that im shocked hasnt died.) The pride i get that i did it myself is immense, its not worth it to pay someone else, it was so much damn fun figuring it all out and it really wasnt hard at all.
what impresses my buddys and people that sit in my truk wen i crank it is how their ears hurt like a mofo wen they get out, lol. i love my music with that pounding bass, its something not alot of people care for but its my truk nd my music nd its how i like it! lol

and thats a good way to look at it, if something happens to it, ya its 140 buks gone, but its 140 versus the 2800 worth of stuff in the bak of mine. but id love 2 c some1 try t get that out pf there. lol, box is bolted down, and screws holdin amp nd cap on are tamper proof, and if some1 still happens to get past that, the 1/0 power wire isnt coming out of those connects by any force a person can use, and id like 2 c some1 try to cut it without electricians cable cutters.

so you have those tails too, nice. how does the reverse lights work for the Q? i thought they were next to the lescence plate. and in that pic they are slightly tinted, im going to tint them waay darker just havent gotten around to it yet. i actually just got most of my blue interior conversion done, im lovin it and everyone that sees it thinks its cool 2, only things left are the defrost button and the door lock and window switches, curious tho, radio shack offer 2 types of blue led's, which ones should i get?!

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fueler
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yup youyre right overpowering by such a large margin can also cause premature failure

one thing you all have to realize, is that when naladude says 1000w, that means probably 300 or 400w rms naladude post up the exact model # of your amp, or at least google the specs for yourself to check the RMS wattage (1000w is gonna be peak) and let us know what you find.


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audtatious
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There are lots of assumptions, like the alternator is charging properly and the amp has a proper ground and the wiring is the proper size, etc......

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slickroger
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Natedogg1701 wrote:so you have those tails too, nice. how does the reverse lights work for the Q? i thought they were next to the lescence plate. and in that pic they are slightly tinted, im going to tint them waay darker just havent gotten around to it yet. i actually just got most of my blue interior conversion done, im lovin it and everyone that sees it thinks its cool 2, only things left are the defrost button and the door lock and window switches, curious tho, radio shack offer 2 types of blue led's, which ones should i get?!
The size of the LED should depend on where its going. I suggest not going bigger than 5mm or you might not be able to fit the LED where it needs to go, If your having trouble trying to spread the light sand the top of the LED to get a wider angle of light.

good luck wheres your progress pics

naladude911
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Here is the amp:http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=VIBE241

After looking at my amp again, the audio place set the amp at "low". Is it safe to set the amp at high?

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audtatious
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Low is the crossover. You only use high if you have full-range speakers on it so leave it as it is.

If you are running one speaker per channel then follow the JL Audio link I posted above to set your gain controls as the amp is a regulated design.

If you still have no clue then pay someone else to do it before you blow everything up. If you want to really get into car audio then I suggest you start reading everything you can get your hands on before doing anything because you seem to ask questions without doing any research at all.

naladude911
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I think the installer did a pretty good job configuring the amp. I might go to a different shop to see if they can take a look at it

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fueler
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your amp is 500w rms (250 per channel) so it is matched perfectly to your amp.

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KyooX4
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*subs

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fueler
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whoops haha yeah amp matched 2 subs

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PoorManQ45
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fueler wrote:you blow subs by underpowering them... that means trying to make them wang when you dont have the power, they will clip / distort and eventually blow. or if you have them wired wrong, or setup for the wrong ohms.....
WRONG!!!

Underpowering a sub does not cause a failure.

JBL proved this in a white paper by power one of their 2000w RMS subs with a 200w amplifier. They drove the amplifier into clipping. This results in a square wave output. Meaning the driver is driven out, held, pulled in, held, not a constant movement like a sine wave. A squarewave typically results in 1.2 to 1.6 times the maximum output of the amplifier.

What you are talking about is when you have a 1000w rms sub with a 800w rms amp that you drive to clipping. This would result in an output of greater then 1k.

One of the bad things about a squarewave is that it does not allow constant movement of the driver. This means the voicecoil is not getting constant airflow. In turn this causes the coil to heat up and possibly fail.

To do this you have to have an amplifier that is close to the RMS handling of the sub.

The ONLY way to blow a speaker is to exceed it's electrical, physical, or thermal limits.

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PoorManQ45
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naladude911 wrote:Lanzar 1000w amp
Nala... LMAO... That amp puts out like 200 watts...

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PoorManQ45
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Natedogg1701 wrote:and finally, yes most subs are blown because they are underpowered, when a sub is underpowered it doesnt hit straight forward and backward, it will twist and warp, this is because the entire magnet isnt being energised enough so the voice coil isnt getting equal magnetic power all the way around.so the sub twists as it plays, the spiders and surrounds wear out, and sometimes the voice coils will hit the inside of the magnets a,d wear down, break, or short out.
Please stop talking...

The ONLY way for the cone travel to be nonlinear is for the coil to leave the magnetic field generating by the interaction of the magnet and the energy traveling through the voicecoil.

Most GOOD manufactures will provide you Linear Xmax. This is the amount of travel that the suspension and motor structure can handle while maintaining straight travel. Unless this excursion is exceed the cone travel is linear.

What the hell is this BS about the coil not being fully energized! A voicecoil is a piece, or pieces, of wire wrapped around a cardboard tube(sometimes synthetics) then coated with epoxy. The leads are on opposite sides of the wrap. For electricity to travel from one side to the other it MUST go through the entire coil. The only way for it not to is if the insulation is broken and a short occurs.


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fueler
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why do i get the feeling that this Q45 guy either has no system or a very crappy system ?

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PoorManQ45
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Natedogg1701 wrote:sony isnt lying about the 1000 watt claim, they arent just explaining at all when the amp will make that power. one its with a perfect 14.6 volts constantly at the amp, and its not at the low sub playing frequencys that most people who buy them use them for, it requires more work for an amp to play a lower frequency, the 1000 watt claim is under whatever sony considers PERFECT conditions, and at a higher frequency. so technically they are not lying, but they still sukk none the less. lol
Wow... Just wow...

You have no idea how an electrical amplifier works, do you? It is no harder for an electrical device to generate a 200khz signal then it is to generate a 20hz signal. It is all dependent on the electrical circuit components being used to filter the signal.

And yes, Sony is lying. That amplifier will NEVER put of 1kw. Add up the total of the fuses and multiple by 14.4. This will give you the 100% maximum that can be pushed through that circuit. This number will NEVER be achieved as no device is 100% efficient at converting incoming energy to output. The only way for this to happen is if there is a massive failure inside of the amp that caused the hot power wire to go directly to the speaker.
Modified by PoorManQ45 at 11:11 AM 11/19/2009

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PoorManQ45
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fueler wrote:why do i get the feeling that this Q45 guy either has no system or a very crappy system ?
My crappy system employs focal components with TC sound subs. Using Hifonics Zeus and Thor amplifiers, and an Alpine HU.

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PoorManQ45
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naladude911 wrote:Here is the amp:http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=VIBE241

After looking at my amp again, the audio place set the amp at "low". Is it safe to set the amp at high?
fueler wrote:your amp is 500w rms (250 per channel) so it is matched perfectly to your amp.
That amplifier uses two 15amp fuses. That's a total of 30amps maximum. To get wattage you multiply volts x amps. Use 30 x 14.4 = 432 watts. That is the MAXIMUM DRAW that the amp can have, not output.

For peak output you'd assume 85%. Then for RMS cut that in half. You're looking at ~180w RMS TOTAL!

Surprised you guys missed that.

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Natedogg1701
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ok poormanG45, first id love 4 u to sit in my truk so i can blow your ear drums out, second you use hifonics amps.......im sorry. and you have a better chance of meeting god than getting me to stop talking. if you were even a semi intelegent retard you'd read what i wrote in its entirety and think about it for a second.....retard. i know what a voice coil is made ofmoron, and if your subs have the wire wrapped around a cardboard tube then they must sukk, again sorry for you, get decent subs that have like mine a hard plastic tube. and yes moron i know current flows through the entire coil, but a weak amp will not push full current through the coil, you get a voltage drop, which weakens the em field created by the current through the coil which makes it not move straigh forward and backward within the magnets, it twists, so when you crank up that amp not only are you getting that square wave which does not cool the sub enough, it causes the twisting action to become more severe and wears out part quicker along with the heat. and the sony amp thing, how bout u just go jump off a cliff, i know its a maxpower rating, but do the experiment yourself,hook tha mp up and change the impedances to it and the frequencys your having it push out, provide different voltages to the amp, and figure out the power coming out of the amp.

fueler i agree with you, just let him talk he'll go away eventually, back to play with all his q45 buddys. and roger ill post pics soon, but my question isnt what size,i know i need 5 mm leds, sorry if i said size in the original question, radio shack offers 2 types of 5mm leds, idk which one to choose, if you get the chance check radio shacks website and look at their led selection, you'll see what i mean.

naladude911
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Ok, i read some of the above stuff but I got too tired.

Its been a week since my install, and my subs are still hitting hard and I have had MANY compliments, and smiles from the ladies

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Pwnin O'Brien
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naladude911 wrote:...and smiles from the ladies
This made me laugh. Really hard.

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car nut
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^+1

Every girl I've ever met enjoys their ability to hear.

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Broadfield
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Wow, reading all of this babble really pains me. You guys really need to pay attention when Audtatious, PoorMan or if Looney comes in here and talks.... they know what they are talking about. I also like to think I know what I'm talking about.

Natedogg, you really should venture out a bit, away from your own ego. If you really are only 18, then you still have a lot to learn about audio. I have been a business owner and installing professionally for as long as you have been alive. That's around 25,000 vehicles under my belt..... and I still learn things from time to time about my profession. Food for thought

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PoorManQ45
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Natedogg1701 wrote:ok poormanG45, first id love 4 u to sit in my truk so i can blow your ear drums out, second you use hifonics amps.......im sorry.
That's nice... Hifonics have a decent rep. So I don't know what you're getting at.

I don't care how loud your system is. It's your hearing that is damaged... I prefer quality sound for Jazz music.
Natedogg1701 wrote:...if your subs have the wire wrapped around a cardboard tube then they must sukk, again sorry for you, get decent subs that have like mine a hard plastic tube.
For pure sound quality paper or cellulose materials are still the best. You have a different goal in mind. You want skull crushing SPL. I want it loud enough to drown out the surrounding noise and still sound excellent. For this, paper is the way to go.http://www.mother-of-tone.com/speaker.htm
Natedogg1701 wrote:and yes moron i know current flows through the entire coil, but a weak amp will not push full current through the coil, you get a voltage drop, which weakens the em field created by the current through the coil which makes it not move straigh forward and backward within the magnets, it twists,
Wrong! No matter the power, 1 watt or 1000 watts, the EM field generated by the coil is designed to maintain the same shape to maximize efficient interaction with the magnetic field from the magnet.

I think you're forgetting about the other parts of a driver. The suspension and the spider are designed to hold the voicecoil in the proper location in the gap in the magnet.

Besides that, the coil doesn't want to torque anymore then when it has a clean signal hooked up to it.

An easy way to test this is to generate a squarewave. To do this you will need a 9v battery. Hook the positive to the positive and negative to the negative terminals. This will cause the speaker to move out and hold there. You can reverse the polarity to make the cone travel in and hold. This is a squarewave and is what occurs when the amplifier clips. This causes absolutely no harm by itself to the subwoofer.
Natedogg1701 wrote:so when you crank up that amp not only are you getting that square wave which does not cool the sub enough, it causes the twisting action to become more severe and wears out part quicker along with the heat.
By "cranking up" the amp you are simply supplying more power. This will cause the cone to travel farther then with less power. It will still travel in a linear path until linear Xmax is reached. If you exceed this rating then the interaction with the magnetic field will be more erratic then when traveling within linear specs.
Natedogg1701 wrote:and the sony amp thing, how bout u just go jump off a cliff, i know its a maxpower rating, but do the experiment yourself,hook tha mp up and change the impedances to it and the frequencys your having it push out, provide different voltages to the amp, and figure out the power coming out of the amp.
You don't read do you. That amplifier will NEVER put out 1kw. I'm referring to the amp Nala posted that has 2 15amp fuses. The ONLY way for it to put out more then 432 watts is if a short circuit occurs internally and the power is directed to the driver.


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