I got a new toy

[Hijacker]

Don't have a picture of it yet, but it's an adjustable ECU. Looks like a reflashed ECU, but it's had an adjustable toggle switch wired into it. 3 Settings. 1 is probably stock, 2 is probably a better map, and I guess 3 is gonna be the best map it can work with.

Anyways, I'm only borrowing it to see how well it works. It will probably end up in my friend's 510 project whenever he gets working on it.

The badging is kind of faded, but it looks like it says "succes CRIENTWORKS" right under a big logo that says "selection". It also has a very long wire cluster coming out of it so you can mount the togle switch in one of the dash panels that contains the O/D light, etc. The only thing that I can't figure out is why it has an additional 3 wires coming off the selector switch (red, blue, black) Black should be ground, red should be 12v, but blue? Also I don't know why it has those since the ECU should already be covering grounding and voltage.

I'll get a pic of it up as soon as I get my laptop set up to transfer pics off my camera.

[msaskin]

Does the ECU have a daughterboard, and if so, can you remove the EPROM chip from the daughterboard?

It would probably be in your best interest to pull the chip if possible and find someone with an EPROM reader (i've got one, and you can make one from plans online for about $20) so you can pull the ROM files off the chip and see just what is changed about the maps. Alternately you can contact Scott Avoy (enthalpy, secret services tuner)...odds are he'd pull the maps and give you some insight into them if you sent him the chip and asked nicely

~matt

[Hijacker]

it does have a daughter board, and we pulled it out earlier today to see how the wiring was done. very clean and well done.

since it's not my ECU, i'd have to run it by my friend first to see if he wants to pull the EPROM. And I do know a guy in town that has an EPROM reader, but I'm lazy and want to see exactly how it performs. What I should do is grab some dyno time and see how much different it pulls on the dyno. But that costs money as well

[msaskin]

True. I'd just be hesitant to run an ECU with some unknown tune on my car, but that's just me, and I'm paranoid

~matt

[Hijacker]

worst case scenario, it grenades my engine. If it's bad, it'll be more likely to just run like crap. I've seen engines running on bad ECUs and it's not too bad.

Anyways, on to the pictures!!

The ECU itself

The label. kind of hard to read in this shot.

The whole thing

The tail harness coming off the switch. note the blue, red, and black wires.

This is the plug wire the main harness and tail harness converge to go to the switch. The red wire doesn't go to the switch, it instead goes straight through the plug through both harnesses.

The blue wire goes from the tail harness to the switch, and then it loops to another plug point.

the switch

Again.

[msaskin]

Yeah, odds are you'd notice it running like hell before it actually did any damage

Any pics of the daughterboard/internals?

~matt

[Hijacker]

gimme a few minutes and I will

[Hijacker]

Here we go.

[msaskin]

Interesting indeed

I vote to pull the ROM images Either way, let us know what happens once it goes in the car.

~matt

[VitaminT]

I wonder if the red/black wires on the toggle switch are for illumination of the "1", "2", "3"?

[Hijacker]

the red never even goes into the switch. it goes straight to the ECU. My guess is that it powers the daughter board, so the DB doesn't sap power from the mobo.

the black wire is a ground, but I'm still stumped on the blue wire.

I'm treating this as if I were installing a head unit, but blue has typically been power antenna.

[VitaminT]

Yeah hook that too you remote turn on/power ant. and see what happens. Hehe.

[Hijacker]

lol

[D1SR240]

On my foglights there are 3 wires going to the switch, red (power) white (to control the foglights on and off) and Black (ground, cuz the switch lights up when the fogs are on)