I found zeee solution to my high speed vibration.... AND IM BACK IN CANADA

[W O T]

Well I moved back home last week, back to good ole canada. And it couldnt have welcomed me any better lol.

I worked a few job sites with my dad early this week, and as you Ontario guys know, its been raining for like 3 days straight.

Well I was driving home 2 days ago, and god damn did I have a BAD vibration at speed above 120, like enough to get a lady off. SO I got under the car today to throw down a visual inspection atleast, and this is what I see.

Wonder if this could have caused my wheel to become unbalanced







Crud was literally 3/8" thick. Drives smooth as glass now

On a side note, Canada air is much fresher than michigan

[Natedogg1701]

lol that could cause a bit of a vibration. but W O T ive been meaning to find you on this forum, im curious did you make any upgrades to your charging system, like alternator upgrade or add a second one? with those 4 15's slammin in those videos you have to have a massive current draw. i mean i have this battery called a batcap 2000, they r made by a company called xstatix, friggan things about 3/4 the size of the factory battery but weighs bout 35 to 40 lbs, and is 2000 cold crank amps. (it started my buddys diesel by itself no prob) i got that, im running 1/0 power wire to a 10 farad rockford hybrid cap, then 1/0 straight to the amp, and a 1/0 ground obv. i know my system is no where near as loud as yours, but its still rediculous. yours is beyond rediculous, cant think of a word for it, lol. but ya did you upgrade charging system at all? andwhat type of subs and amp do you use? if you dont mind me asking

[W O T]

Well I dont even have the system in my sig anymore, I went with 2 custom 18's in a 20 cubes box currently with 3 8" aero ports, meant to put the build log up here.

As for the charging system, it depends how much amperage you're pulling, I have about 7,500 rms right now with my 4 amps. I first went with an aftermarket HO alt that bolted right in to the factory location, it was a 250amp, and I had 3 deka 9a31 batteries. BUT, the HO alt failed on me, as they do on alot of people, so I found a second route. I put the factory 110amp alt in (becuase factory reliability is the end all winner to me), and orderred a 250amp large case alt meant for a mustang. And I fabbed the second alt to fit right ontop of the a/c compressor, but run perfectly inline with the a/c serpentine belt, and added a passive pulley for maximum belt wrap. ITS A TIGHT FIT. But it came out perfect, and as far as i know, Im probly the first Ive seen to have a dual alternator R50.

But to put that second alt in youve gotta ditch the massive factory air intake. As for batteries, Ive currently got an optima under the hood, and 2 136lb (each) batteries on each side of the rear of my car, the batteries are meant for cell phone towers lol, they didnt even wanna sell them to me. With multiple runs of 2/0 pure copper cable for power and ground.

I wish this forum had a pm feature and I could help ya easier. Doesnt sound like you wanna go this extreme though, a second or third battery (battcapp2000's arent great daily batteries), doing the big3 upgrade and the stock alt should probly be enough for ya.

Just throw me some info on your setup and I can give you better advice, damn I typed alot there. Ill document my whole stereo build shortly, Im still moving my things back home slowly

[Natedogg1701]

did you say the box is 20 cubes?! wholey s*** thats rediculously huge. lol, and i thoight my 4.5 cube box took up alot of space. and actually that a sick idea with the second alternator, i would deffinitely do something like that, when i have the money. and what exactly do you mean the "big 3 upgrade" i think ive heard tht somewhere but not sure. and ive had this battery in for about a year with no probs at all, its way better than the factory one but i still get some pretty heave light dimming and such, but i still have the factory 110 amp alternator.

2/0 really? i wanted to get my hands on that but when i worked at a car dealership i got the 1/0 free out of a car so i cant complain, around here 1/0 goes for about 9 buks a foot and i got like 30 feet of it free. and cell phone tower batterys?! wholey crap haha, 136 lbs a piece, u must have to put springs for a lift in the rear just so the truk rides even. lol id love to see pics when you get the chance, especially of that alternator set up, that really interesting. you have to know of steve mead, hes got tons of youtube videos, he uses 2 rockford T15KW amps, biggest car amps made ever, and FI 18's, either 4 or 8 of em. all in the back of a suburban, 7 350 amp alternators. guys nuts

as for my system, well the btcap 2000 obv, the 1/0 power and ground wire, rockford fosgate 10 farad hybrid capacitor, rockford 25th anniversary power 1000 5 channel amp, 2 eclipse 6210 subs (dual 4 ohm voice coils, wired each sub to 2 ohms, than back to the amp at 1 ohm), and the subs are in a 4.5 cube Gforce 116 ported box.

like i said its like a toy compared to yours, but youmust have spend stupid money on everything, heres a couple pics too, for what i spend compared to what everythings worth its a hell of a system, for me anyway. it can hurt my ears easily so its loud, last time i db tested it it was 152.3 if i remember correctly. curious, have you db tested your system? old and new one, you have to be hittin 175 atleast.

[KyooX4]

WOT, how do those 265/65-17s fit?

[W O T]

Kyoo - they fit perfect, little stretch on the stock rim, but they fill up the wheel wells nice

nate - ya ofcourse Ive heard of steve meade lol, who hasnt in this car audio game. About the money, I really dont have much invested, you could probly build my entire setup for about 4 grand, its the HOURS AND HOURS of box building and fiberglassing, handcrafting brackets and running wires and making my own buss bars etc. You do it yourself, you save a grip.

Thats my life motto, and a sticker on all my cars. Built... Not Bought

Anywho, sounds like the big3 is exactly what your car needs. The big3 is basically making your cars electrical flow/dispurse better, itll cost you $25ish bucks and make a WORLD of difference in dimming lights and steady voltage.

The big3 is 3 wires.-alternator output postive -> battery positive-battery ground -> frame/chassis (ground)-chasis/frame (ground) to engine block

In short your just creating a big minimal restriction loop

I suggest a minimum of 1/0 for some headroom, I did 2/0. This 9 bucks a foot you speak of, rubbish, dont pay 3X the price for a fancy coloured jacket, go to a local weld supply shop, and ask for some 1/0 or 2/0. Welding cable is PURE copper, not tinned aluminum, or variations of bulls*** most people pay an arm and a leg for, and weld cable has a plain black jacket, which I like. Guarantee the 1/0 is less than $2.50/foot, and youll only need like 4 feet of it. The only thing about the big 3 that is debatable, and entirely upto you, is if you want to fuse the alternator + -> battery + line. I suggest you do it for safety, but I didnt, aslong as you secure it GOOD so it doesnt short or catch on anything (I also have all my wires wrapped in techflex), its perfectly fine.

Big3 is where Id start with your setup for sure man, you arent pulling much more than 150amps Id guess at fulltilt, and a BC2000 should hold that no problem, and Id bet it would eliminate your dimming. Any questions feel free to ask, or shoot me an email @ [email protected] if its easier

[Natedogg1701]

well the fact that you've built everything is very respectable,id love todo it but like you said, it takes time, which i dnt have. like i got lucky with the subs and box combo, box has dam near perfect volume and port dimentions that these subs want. i like the amp.....ALOT! lol. its 1 of 2500 and im a huge rockford fan,for now im only runnung the sub channel of the amp because i dnt have the money or time to do my interior speakers yet, but rms wattage from just the sub cchannel is around 2200,and its gained all the way down(rockford radio has 8 volt pre-outs so that helps keepin gain down, but u know this obv). i got that number from doing several different calculations to find wattage so its a real good average. the battery was a recoendation from a friend, actually hes the manager of a store called sound sensation in auborn mass. hes been in the sound business for years and has had countless systems,guy has an old subaru with a pair of 8" subs that willblow your mind,lol. this is some1 who knows what hes talking about, hes like my car audio mentor haha.

and ya that big 3 is what i thoight it was, just wasnt sure. well then a few questions about that...1. how large a fuse would you use going from alternator to battery?2. the battery to frame ground, anywhere perticular to ground on the frame? if you look at the pic of the batcap, you can see the 1/0 ground going from the left side of the pic going behind the battery and its grounded to the inside of the fender,you can see it under a bundle of wires near the top of the pic. that a good spot or you recomed a better spot?3. and the factroy ground set up went from engine block,a small clip in the wire that bolted to the chassis/frame, then to the battery.now for my battery to work i undid the clip and the ground goes dirrectly to the battery to the engine block, then battery to frame. would you also run a ground from block to battery, just for the sake of providing less current restriction? and techflex, is that just like a plastic jacket or something similar?
Modified by Natedogg1701 at 9:26 AM 11/30/2009

[W O T]

You fuse according to wire rating, if you go with 1/0, you use a 300amp fuse, 250 if its cheap 1/0.

As for the grounds, Im not talking about grounding to a sheetmetal fender, I mean to the FRAME, I personally just went straight down from the neg terminal to the frame and I drilled/tapped the frame and bolted my lug to that, and also ran my engine ground to that same point. The alternator + to battery + is the wire that makes the most difference

This is techflex, its a braided cover, comes in tons of different colours and sizes (it stretches alot), It looks pretty and holds up to abuse

http://www.parts-express.com/p...2-348

[Natedogg1701]

cool thanks for the link, and i just thought nof another ques, where would you ground like all your amps? you cant see my ground wire but i took out one of the metal cargo clips in the hatch area, wire brushed the paint down to bare metaland grounded it there, where in the back area of the truk wud be a better spot to ground everything?

[fueler]

yup thatll do it!! i should check my wheels cause mine have developed a shake as well.

[W O T]

cool thanks for the link, and i just thought nof another ques, where would you ground like all your amps? you cant see my ground wire but i took out one of the metal cargo clips in the hatch area, wire brushed the paint down to bare metaland grounded it there, where in the back area of the truk wud be a better spot to ground everything?

I personally also removed one of those cargo tie downs, but instead of grounding to the thin sheet metal I drilled through one of the M6 tapped holes with a big bit, and grounded straight to the frame below, also by drilling and tapping into it. If you honestly ground it to bare metal, your probly fine

yup thatll do it!! i should check my wheels cause mine have developed a shake as well.

I was SHOCKED, just how much managed to settle and pool there and somehow harden before I went for a drive

[Natedogg1701]

i may do that, i am an electrician by trade so it makes sense that the frame is the largest and best place to ground anything seein as how it provides the most direct path for the electricity to flow.

and hey W O T thanks for all your help, im gunna get on the big 3 upgrade asap and see how much of a difference it makes. again if you get the chance id love to see that custome alternator set up you have. thanks again man,i appreciate it.