wiring guys go to this link.. http://racebread.com/old/Documents/harness.swf
I wanna re-wire my rb20 into my 240sx and that link is very helpful but I just wanna make sure if everything is the same for an rb20.
cuz the link says its for rb25 and rb26..
thanks guys let me know.
I want to re-wire the engine/car today.
only reason why i want to re-wire and check it because when i first got the rb i didn't do the wiring.
I found a wiring dirgram for rb25/rb26. is it the same for rb20?
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rb25drag
- Posts: 1311
- Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 9:51 am
- Car: 1990 Nissan 240SX 5.3 Chevy + 60mm turbo + blow threw carb.
Re: I found a wiring dirgram for rb25/rb26. is it the same for rb20? (S13 240SX)
I found this for the RB20
RB20DET into S13 (89-90) Wiring, by Skillzilla
Please refer to the supplied table for wire references, and for wire functions. Also, SOLDER AND SHRINK-WRAP ALL CONNECTIONS, this is vital. This write-up also assumes you have a basic understanding of auto electrical systems, and you have all the necessary equipment (e.g. wire cutters/strippers, soldering iron, solder, flux, heat shrink tubing, voltmeter, etc). Also, this write-up assumes you will be using the KA lower harness, which you should leave attached to the S13 chassis when pulling the KA.
1) First, locate the alternator, starter and transmission harness on the RB motor. This will be referred to as the LOWER HARNESS from now on. Disconnect the RB lower harness from the motorset, including all the sensors from the RB transmission and the oil pressure sensor from the side of the block, near the oil filter. Set the RB lower harness aside for now, you wont need it until later.
2) Disconnect the ECU and MAFS from the RB Harness and set them aside. Drop the RB motor into the S13, using either way that’s easier for you. Be very careful not to damage any part of the RB engine harness when dropping the motor. Find the grommet were the stock KA engine harness ran through the firewall and push the RB ECU connector through it until it touches the floor.
3) OK, the first step in the wiring process is to locate everything you will need. Become familiar with the RB wiring harness, and also the chassis harness from the S13. Also, take a second to plan where you will be routing your wiring once its in the car, as it will be a lot harder to hide it later on.
4) Locate two plugs on the RB harness, the MAFS plug and the O2 sensor plug. The MAFS plug will have to be extended, as the ECU is now on the other side of the car. Make sure you use shielded wire on anything that was previously shielded. You can salvage shielded wire from your KA harness or get some from an electronics store. The O2 sensor plug may need to be extended and it may not. Again, if you do need to extend it, remember to use shielded wire where needed.
5) Now, locate a grey, 6-pin plug on the RB harness, near the stock location for the MAFS plug. You can identify the plug by the color of the wires on it, using the above chart. Once you have located this plug, cut it off, leaving the six wires free. Also, strip the black insulation from the RB harness back about 6" to give you room to work.
6) Next, locate two plugs on the S13, near the battery tray, almost stuck inside the fender. One plug will be larger grey plug like the RB plug; the other will be a smaller brown plug. Pull these plugs out as much as possible and cut them off, leaving the wires free.
7) Now comes the mix and match section of the swap. Memorize this table:
On the RB harness where you cut the 6-pin plug you now have 6 free wires. You also have a bunch or free wires on the S13 harness, near the battery tray. Locate the white/black wire on the RB harness and the red wire on the S13 harness, and connect the two. Remember to use solder and shrink-wrap on all connections. This wire supplies the ECU with constant power, to hold memory.
9) Next, locate the black/red wire on the RB harness and the black/red wire on the S13 harness and connect them. This wire supplies switched power to the ECU (turns the ECU on when you turn the key).
10) Using your voltmeter, find a wire from the S13 grey plug that shows 12V when the key is in the ON position and 0V when the key is off. Also, ensure it remains at 12V when the key is in the START position. Connect this wire to the white/purple from the RB harness. This will tell the ignition relay when to turn on.
11) Finally, find the black/pink wire from the brown S13 plug and solder a 6ft length of wire to it. Run this wire along the RB harness to the ECU plug, leaving a good amount of extra at the end.
12) Now, tape up the RB harness, from the ECU connector to the S13 chassis harness, and all the way to the MAFS. If you had to extend the O2 sensor wiring, tape that up as well. Making the RB harness look neat will pay off with a clean swap later on.
13) Now to the lower harness. First things first, all the transmission sensors. The KA speedometer signal sensor will fit in the RB transmission, so put it back into the transmission. Next, going to wards the front of the car, if the reverse sensor, followed by the neutral sensor. All the KA sensors will bolts right into the RB transmission fine.
14) On the starter motor you will need to connect a plug and an O-connector. The O-connector fits fine, but the KA plug is different from the RB plug. You can either swap the RB starter plug onto the KA harness or use the KA plug, although it doesn’t fit very tight.
15) On the block you will have the oil pressure sensor, next to the oil filter. Connect the KA pressure sensor to the RB block.
16) The alternator plug and O-ring connector are the same as on the KA alternator, so connect those and you are done with the lower harness.
17) Now reconnect your ECU and MAFS to the RB harness, and ensure you have relays in the two green plugs near the ECU plug. DO NOT pull the relays from the stock fuse box, you need those too. Once the relays are in, connect the battery.
18) Now get in the car on the passenger side and grab the green relays near the ECU. Turn the key to the ON position and feel for the relays to click, and check lights on the front of the ECU, they should be on. Leave the key ON, get out of the car and open the trunk/hatch. In the floor of the trunk towards the passenger side is the fuel pump, ensure it is running (you will hear a faint buzzing or whirring noise). If the relays click and the fuel pump turns on congrats, your wiring was done at least half right.
19) Now the moment of truth: starting the car. Double check for grounds not connected, MAFS hooked up, all vacuum lines connected, etc, then turn the key and hope for the best.
RB20DET into S13 (89-90) Wiring, by Skillzilla
Please refer to the supplied table for wire references, and for wire functions. Also, SOLDER AND SHRINK-WRAP ALL CONNECTIONS, this is vital. This write-up also assumes you have a basic understanding of auto electrical systems, and you have all the necessary equipment (e.g. wire cutters/strippers, soldering iron, solder, flux, heat shrink tubing, voltmeter, etc). Also, this write-up assumes you will be using the KA lower harness, which you should leave attached to the S13 chassis when pulling the KA.
1) First, locate the alternator, starter and transmission harness on the RB motor. This will be referred to as the LOWER HARNESS from now on. Disconnect the RB lower harness from the motorset, including all the sensors from the RB transmission and the oil pressure sensor from the side of the block, near the oil filter. Set the RB lower harness aside for now, you wont need it until later.
2) Disconnect the ECU and MAFS from the RB Harness and set them aside. Drop the RB motor into the S13, using either way that’s easier for you. Be very careful not to damage any part of the RB engine harness when dropping the motor. Find the grommet were the stock KA engine harness ran through the firewall and push the RB ECU connector through it until it touches the floor.
3) OK, the first step in the wiring process is to locate everything you will need. Become familiar with the RB wiring harness, and also the chassis harness from the S13. Also, take a second to plan where you will be routing your wiring once its in the car, as it will be a lot harder to hide it later on.
4) Locate two plugs on the RB harness, the MAFS plug and the O2 sensor plug. The MAFS plug will have to be extended, as the ECU is now on the other side of the car. Make sure you use shielded wire on anything that was previously shielded. You can salvage shielded wire from your KA harness or get some from an electronics store. The O2 sensor plug may need to be extended and it may not. Again, if you do need to extend it, remember to use shielded wire where needed.
5) Now, locate a grey, 6-pin plug on the RB harness, near the stock location for the MAFS plug. You can identify the plug by the color of the wires on it, using the above chart. Once you have located this plug, cut it off, leaving the six wires free. Also, strip the black insulation from the RB harness back about 6" to give you room to work.
6) Next, locate two plugs on the S13, near the battery tray, almost stuck inside the fender. One plug will be larger grey plug like the RB plug; the other will be a smaller brown plug. Pull these plugs out as much as possible and cut them off, leaving the wires free.
7) Now comes the mix and match section of the swap. Memorize this table:
On the RB harness where you cut the 6-pin plug you now have 6 free wires. You also have a bunch or free wires on the S13 harness, near the battery tray. Locate the white/black wire on the RB harness and the red wire on the S13 harness, and connect the two. Remember to use solder and shrink-wrap on all connections. This wire supplies the ECU with constant power, to hold memory.
9) Next, locate the black/red wire on the RB harness and the black/red wire on the S13 harness and connect them. This wire supplies switched power to the ECU (turns the ECU on when you turn the key).
10) Using your voltmeter, find a wire from the S13 grey plug that shows 12V when the key is in the ON position and 0V when the key is off. Also, ensure it remains at 12V when the key is in the START position. Connect this wire to the white/purple from the RB harness. This will tell the ignition relay when to turn on.
11) Finally, find the black/pink wire from the brown S13 plug and solder a 6ft length of wire to it. Run this wire along the RB harness to the ECU plug, leaving a good amount of extra at the end.
12) Now, tape up the RB harness, from the ECU connector to the S13 chassis harness, and all the way to the MAFS. If you had to extend the O2 sensor wiring, tape that up as well. Making the RB harness look neat will pay off with a clean swap later on.
13) Now to the lower harness. First things first, all the transmission sensors. The KA speedometer signal sensor will fit in the RB transmission, so put it back into the transmission. Next, going to wards the front of the car, if the reverse sensor, followed by the neutral sensor. All the KA sensors will bolts right into the RB transmission fine.
14) On the starter motor you will need to connect a plug and an O-connector. The O-connector fits fine, but the KA plug is different from the RB plug. You can either swap the RB starter plug onto the KA harness or use the KA plug, although it doesn’t fit very tight.
15) On the block you will have the oil pressure sensor, next to the oil filter. Connect the KA pressure sensor to the RB block.
16) The alternator plug and O-ring connector are the same as on the KA alternator, so connect those and you are done with the lower harness.
17) Now reconnect your ECU and MAFS to the RB harness, and ensure you have relays in the two green plugs near the ECU plug. DO NOT pull the relays from the stock fuse box, you need those too. Once the relays are in, connect the battery.
18) Now get in the car on the passenger side and grab the green relays near the ECU. Turn the key to the ON position and feel for the relays to click, and check lights on the front of the ECU, they should be on. Leave the key ON, get out of the car and open the trunk/hatch. In the floor of the trunk towards the passenger side is the fuel pump, ensure it is running (you will hear a faint buzzing or whirring noise). If the relays click and the fuel pump turns on congrats, your wiring was done at least half right.
19) Now the moment of truth: starting the car. Double check for grounds not connected, MAFS hooked up, all vacuum lines connected, etc, then turn the key and hope for the best.