I dynoed my 240 (KAE)

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
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TDS
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So this Saturday I got my car dynoed at a shop my friend works at. I didn't want to post this until i had proof, but they can't give me a print out until hopefully later today

So let me give you some background on the engine. Its supposedly a rebuilt KAE, i bought it dirt cheap off some guy who decided to go SR instead for Road Racing. At the time it had less than 10k mi and now its under 30k since I installed it. I have most of the bolts ons: intake, headers, high flow cat, cat back exhaust, plugs and wires, lightened crank pulley, lightened flywheel, one-piece driveshaft and no AC.

OK so with all this I was trying to be really modest and guessed I'd have at least 130whp, but from what I saw, the results showed about 140whp. Pretty decent I guess, but what surprised me even more was that the torque was pretty low....like 115. I was kinda surprised because it looks like something a honda with vtec would have but the KA is suppose to have more torque than hp right? Any reasons this could be other than say loosing torque because of the mods?

Anyways the shop owner was a pretty cool guy and said most stock Ka's he dynoed, averaged 120whp. He had two recommendations, which i already knew. One was to get some kind of true CAI or just any kind of intake away from the header area. And the other was to only use NGK sparkplugs. I always use NGK but the last time i replaced them with some Bosch iridiums because a friend gave me a major discount.

Well i'll post up the results as soon as I get a copy of them but if anyone could explain the lack of torque....thanks!


BMAR240SX
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What headers, exhaust and pulley do you have? Thats pretty good 140 seems decent to me with coming from the KAE

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TDS
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Pacesettters (they sux and I may still have a slight leak), Megan Racing 2.5in catback, ASP Crankpulley

gumby74
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Not really relevent to anything, but is your driveshaft steel or aluminum?And secondly did you notice any more noise with it over the stock piece? Sorry, this is something I am considering doing, just curious if noise levels are affected at all.

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TDS
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I got the steel driveshaft. For me, it's only noisy when you let off the gas, otherwise its fine. Sounds like a rough shu-shu-shu-shu and you can really only hear it when you're next to other cars or like the left-most lane on the freeway; somewhere the sound can bounce back to you with your windows open. With my windows up i don't hear it.

wa-chiss
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wow, I have a sohc too and am interested in the low tq #'s.Bump for the sohc

lbrowne
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almost seems like you got your hp and tq numbers backwards....

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neverlift
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< stepping out on a limb here

how old is your cts? that would kinda explain the low trq figures. IIRC 28 hp or so...

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TDS
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just replaced it a while back. It didn't really make a difference and the old one was fine, but I did it to be safe.

steaminhotryce
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Interesting...

I just got my S14 NA KA24DE dyno tuned yesterday at a performance shop with an APEXi SAFC2.

I forgot what my exact torque was, but the WHP at peak was 141 and the torque was I think 150 - 152. Don't remember the exact numbers...but I can confirm later when I get home from work.

I have the similar additions:SRI w/ APEXI filterGreddy HeaderCatco Hi-Flow Cat3" Blitz exhaustFidanza FlywheelUR Crank Pulley(No driveshaft)127k mi on the motor

140whp on your KAE is REALLY good. I was only at 138 without the tune. But like what lbrowne said, is it possible you got the HP and Torque backwards?

EDIT: 141whp @ 5,405rpm, 152.5lb/ft @ 4,259rpm
Modified by steaminhotryce at 7:27 PM 6/25/2007

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TDS
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No, everyone saw it. Even the shop owner told me 140 is good, most of these cars avg 120whp. My results were 137, 138, and 140 on the last run, but i was looking at it from a distance, so maybe i just didn't read the torque right...

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neverlift
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the graph will tell alot(both of you).....

hey steaminhotryce alot of leaning or what?

and op tune it my friend you will pick up a bit, hel you could use deviouska's stage 3 straight up, you basically have all bolt ons so yeah you would pick up a good bit, for under a hundred you could have that setup, only 93 octane with that,base timing at 15*....

steaminhotryce
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I updated the last post with the actual numbers.

The tuner leaned it out a bit to keep the AFR more closely around 13.5.

I probably should've replaced my plug wires before the dyno/tune. The wires were on the car for at least the last 50k miles.

Also, I was using 91 octane fuel. There's no 93 around here in CA unless I add octane boosters. But I wanted to dyno/tune it with whatever fuel was offered here to get a more realistic number.

WWJD

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I've read in other post that you can loose torque by reducen' rotational mass (lighten fly wheel. under drive pully) this could of lead to the numbers you pushed out. If that's the case that's a BIG handy cap. come to think of it that sux

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TDS
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Yes unfortunately we cant get 93 onctane at your typical gas station here in cali. Ok Im gonna sound like a noob but after reading steaminhotryce's edit I realized how i miscalculated the torque. When I was looking at the dyno, after reading the max hp, id immediately look at the torque....So i know i got 140whp at around 54-5800rpms but obviously i wont be making 150+ lb/ft of torque at that rpm range . Thats the most practical reason i got. Ill try to get my hands on the graph tomorrow

Here are two short vids with my camera phone (quality sux):http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g6e0GaHs ... RtXRFt2OAs

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neverlift
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damn ka richness....sounds like you have a good setup with you afc%?oh yea no point tuning what you cant always get

tds thats still a very good pull for sohc

BMAR240SX
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Whats so special about the NGK plugs. So how much did you end up spending on the setup?


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